73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: hotrod24 on April 07, 2008, 01:24:09 pm
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well i think i am going to take my bed off i am only one person so i am going to take it off in peaces i do not think i will be using it except for the tailgate i will post pics later
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Run some 2X4's across the bed and two jacks
Jack the bed up so it clears the tire and pull forward ..
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i might try that what kind of jack i have a scissor jack and a 2 ton jack
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do you have a cherry picker?
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do you have a cherry picker?
no i plane on getting one
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here are the pics the floor is dented and the top of the bed side panels have a hole in them from some one bolting bars to them what do you guys think a new bed or fix this one oh and the truck had dual gas tanks but know way to switch them so i am leaving the driver side with the gas tank filler and get another side with out the filler
this could use some bondo
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0690.jpg)
now these two i guess could be fixed
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0714.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0713.jpg)
now this i dont know about
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0694-1.jpg)
a little bondo that would be fixed
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0693.jpg)
heres a big dent
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0692.jpg)
you can't really see the dents but thay are there
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0691.jpg)
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Rhino line the bed and fix what you have (unless there is more to it that what you posted)
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if i Rhino lined the bed would it get rid of the dents in the bed floor
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well i think i am going to take my bed off
not trying to steer the thread the wrong way but since your on the subject....... I got the 8 bolts out and the 4 bolts holding the gas tank filler tubes out - there anything else hidden that i need to unbolt or unhook before pulling the bed off?????? Thanks!
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if i Rhino lined the bed would it get rid of the dents in the bed floor
No, just make them look better, you'll still see them. Personally, I don't mind dents IN the bed.
not trying to steer the thread the wrong way but since your on the subject....... I got the 8 bolts out and the 4 bolts holding the gas tank filler tubes out - there anything else hidden that i need to unbolt or unhook before pulling the bed off??? Thanks!
Taillight wiring, License plate Wiring. My truck had ground straps at the tank filler, might want to look for those. Not all truck had them. Vent tube for the differential is bolted to the bed, too.
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Are you building a show truck or something that you intend to haul stuff in? If it is the later, I really don't think you are going to spend the time to get all of those dents out of the bed then throw something in there later.
If you put Rhino in there, they can spray it thick enough to level the surface out. The dents will still be there....
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no i will not be hauling stuff in the bed it will be just for looks
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not trying to steer the thread the wrong way but since your on the subject....... I got the 8 bolts out and the 4 bolts holding the gas tank filler tubes out - there anything else hidden that i need to unbolt or unhook before pulling the bed off??? Thanks!
Taillight wiring, License plate Wiring. My truck had ground straps at the tank filler, might want to look for those. Not all truck had them. Vent tube for the differential is bolted to the bed, too.
[/quote] Got the diff vent tube unbolted and can't find any ground straps so i guess i am good!
For the if i Rhino lined the bed would it get rid of the dents in the bed floor
My brother did his bed in Rhino liner(think was Husky liner, not sure) 85swb 1/2ton and got rid of all the dents from surface view and never had a problem. It's been on there and he uses the truck as a work horse @ the lake house and deer lease. Not many people will look at the bottom for dent unless, like said earlier - your going for a show truck! Good luck man, can't wait to see the after pics!!!!!!
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how much does it cost to get it done
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not really sure to tell you the truth, my brother bought the stuff from 4-wheel custom shop and did it himself on a sat, turned around and sand-blasted the boat trailer(2006 Ranger-22' /don't remember model #'s) on sunday and lined the trailer on moday evening!!!!!! if i remember correctly only cost him like $125 all together but he does hang out with the guys and help on voluteer status if they have some backed up projects on the weekend...... Would not image it be more than $200-250.......
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cool
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is there a way that i can slide my bed back so i can get to the back of my cab becuase there is some bad spots there
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is there a way that i can slide my bed back so i can get to the back of my cab becuase there is some bad spots there
Why not just take it off ?
If the tank is still in I wouldnt want to be grinding or welding back there with the tank in
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yea good idea could i take it off and grinde out the spot welds and take it apart
is there a way that i can slide my bed back so i can get to the back of my cab becuase there is some bad spots there
Why not just take it off ?
If the tank is still in I wouldnt want to be grinding or welding back there with the tank in
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yea good idea could i take it off and grinde out the spot welds and take it apartis there a way that i can slide my bed back so i can get to the back of my cab becuase there is some bad spots there
Why not just take it off ?
If the tank is still in I wouldnt want to be grinding or welding back there with the tank in
Just unbolt the bed and put a 4X4 inside the rail near the center and pick it up with a cherry picker
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i dont have cherry picker where is all the spot welds in the bed
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the only welds in the bed are where the rear vertical post (stake pockets) meet the bed. There are two spot welds there - other than that they unbolt with about 50 thousand bolts (just kidding about the bolts - there are about 100 ;D)
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thanks jeff i started taking bolts out what would be the best way to get the spot weld out
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The only welds should be near the tailgate posts. Die grinder
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thanks guys i have started the ter down here is some pics
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0821.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0826.jpg)
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Movin right along hotrod Keep it up!
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thanks vile it is more work but i can do it i need to take my tool box off and the other inner wheel tub and could you tell me what i could put on the bed floor bolts so it will be easier to get them off all i have is wd40 and silicone
Movin right along hotrod Keep it up!
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today i got my tool box off and the other inner wheel tub i just have the spot welds now could i use a grinder with a cutting wheel or would a die grinder do the best
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A grinder with a cutoff wheel would work if you can get it in there. It was tough for me to get my die grinder to fit in there.
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yea my cut off wheels are thick so it will be a tight fit maybe i could grind them
A grinder with a cutoff wheel would work if you can get it in there. It was tough for me to get my die grinder to fit in there.
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Thats good - whatever it takes to cut the welds ;D
Good luck and show us pics
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well i got one side off i used my grinder with a cut off wheel on the spot welds it worked pretty good
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0832.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0834.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0831.jpg)
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cool, it's interesting to see one of these beds disassembled...
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yea this was the first time i done this and i think it was cool to
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Your making good work of it - keep it up ;D
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thanks jeff you was right about the bolts lol
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after i was done with the bed panel i started on the bolts on the floor and thay just keep turning i thought i could just turn the nuts and thay unbolt
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0840.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0839.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0841.jpg)
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If you stripped them out in the bed panel, you are going to have a hard time getting them out without tack welding them to the floor. Did you soak the nuts down?
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yea i put some wd40 on them only thing that i can think of is to grind them down
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Dusty,
can you get at them from under the truck?If so you may need to take a sawzaw and cut them completly off.
It happened to me when i took my bed off the 1st time, all of the bed bolts kept turning and the nuts were rusted solid, i took alot of cut off wheels and a hammer and a chisel and totally destroyed the bolt heads..
thanks
pat
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It's amazing how much space these things take up when disassembled ;D
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the nuts are ok but the bolts just keep turning i think the square thing on the bolts are rusty i could grind the bolt heads\
Dusty,
can you get at them from under the truck?If so you may need to take a sawzaw and cut them completly off.
It happened to me when i took my bed offthe 1st time, all of the bed bolts kept turning and the nuts were rusted solid, i took alot of cut off wheels and a hammer and a chisel and totally destroyed the bolt heads.But since you got pains in your hands i say your gonna need to cut them all off.
thanks
pat
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The bed has a square hole in it to capture the bolt. If the bolt is turning and the nut isn't coming loose, it has rounded these off. You either need to tack weld the nut to the floor, or as Pat suggested cut all of the bolts off... The short ones are going to be a pain, and the one that is behind the crossbrace will be too...
Are you going to replace the floor? Not sure why you are tearing it down this far...
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yea chris i am going to replace the floor i took my bed apart because i did not have a crane to pick it up and no one to help me pick it up
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I used a cutting torch on mine ( after putting wet rags on the gas tank ) ... came right off! ;D
A lot of help I am, right?
Sorry...here's the deal with grinding... if you grind the heads off, the bolts still won't come out because the square shank near the head won't fit through the hole.
I think your best bet is to use a cut off wheel on your grinder and cut them off from the bottom.
Another option is to center punch them and drill the heads off. (again, you would have to keep going until you drilled the square shoulder off too)
Good luck!
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could i grind the head of the bolt and then take a screw driver and a hammer and beat it down through the floor
I used a cutting torch on mine ( after putting wet rags on the gas tank ) ... came right off! ;D
A lot of help I am, right?
Sorry...here's the deal with grinding... if you grind the heads off, the bolts still won't come out because the square shank near the head won't fit through the hole.
I think your best bet is to use a cut off wheel on your grinder and cut them off from the bottom.
Another option is to center punch them and drill the heads off. (again, you would have to keep going until you drilled the square shoulder off too)
Good luck!
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If you got the time you can grind the heads all off completely but you`ll be going thru alot and i mean ALOT of grinding discs you figure what you got 8 bolts holding that bed on?Do this dusty i got my RYOBI sawzaw from home depot, i didn`t spend alot the biggest thing was the blades, its up to you man but i would cut them off with a sawzaw, by the time you spend the money in grinding discs thats the money you could've put into a saw and you will use that saw for many more things to come its always nice to have 1 when you need it.Heck i cut up more things with this saw(basically my whole 1st truck and scrapped it and a rear cougar clip from a car) then i can imagine.
thanks
pat
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If you got the time you can grind the heads all off completely but you`ll be going thru alot and i mean ALOT of grinding discs you figure what you got 8 bolts holding that bed on?Do this dusty i got my RYOBI sawzaw from home depot, i didn`t spend alot the biggest thing was the blades, its up to you man but i would cut them off with a sawzaw, by the time you spend the money in grinding discs thats the money you could've put into a saw and you will use that saw for many more things to come its always nice to have 1 when you need it.Heck i cut up more things with this saw(basically my whole 1st truck and scrapped it and a rear cougar clip from a car) then i can imagine.
thanks
pat
40 bucks not a bad deal :)
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100618263&N=10000003+90401+503174
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ok how would i cut the nuts thay are flush with the frame so would i cut though the nuts becuase i could not get into the bolt
If you got the time you can grind the heads all off completely but you`ll be going thru alot and i mean ALOT of grinding discs you figure what you got 8 bolts holding that bed on?Do this dusty i got my RYOBI sawzaw from home depot, i didn`t spend alot the biggest thing was the blades, its up to you man but i would cut them off with a sawzaw, by the time you spend the money in grinding discs thats the money you could've put into a saw and you will use that saw for many more things to come its always nice to have 1 when you need it.Heck i cut up more things with this saw(basically my whole 1st truck and scrapped it and a rear cougar clip from a car) then i can imagine.
thanks
pat
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ok how would i cut the nuts thay are flush with the frame so would i cut though the nuts becuase i could not get into the bolt
You should be able to cut between the frame and the bed go slow and be carefull not to cut (or should I say cut to deep) into the frame or bed :)
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ok thanks
ok how would i cut the nuts thay are flush with the frame so would i cut though the nuts becuase i could not get into the bolt
You should be able to cut between the frame and the bed go slow and be carefull not to cut (or should I say cut to deep) into the frame or bed :)
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The saw that frog just showed is the exact one i got, it wroks great i never had a problem with it at all.
thanks
pat
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Can't edit the last post, but found this splitter: $10.95
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_34573_34573 (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_34573_34573)
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i might try that but i would like to know if i could use a 20 gallon air compressor on the nuts with a air wrench the ones that are just turning are in the front
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I think it looks rather kewl as a flat-bed!!
Hot-Rod, keep up the good work m8, some of it can seem to take ages then all come together at once ;)
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HELP IS ON THE WAY!!!!!!!!!!
I just did this exact procedure with my parts truck. I needed to use the frame, the bed was TRASHED and the previous owner put a 1/4" diamond-plate piece over the whole bed, covering the bolt heads. He did a nice job, cutting it to fit and welding it to the sides, but her should have removed the factory bottom first. DOH!
If you remove the rear bumper, the rear 4 bolts are fairly easy to reach with a sawzall. just zip through the nut and bolt. It will take some time and a few blades, but it can be done. For the front 4 (or all 8), read on:
1. Find yourself a hole-saw big enough to get through the bed bottom. I think it was 1 1/4", but you can go bigger. Try to find one where you can adjust the centering drill bit up and down.
2. Drill a small pilot hole as close to the center of the bolt head as you can get so that the centering bit of the hole-saw has a place to spin. It will be a PITA to start a large hole without it.
3. Once the centering hole is drilled (about 1/4" to 1/2" deep would be ideal), load the hole-saw in the chuck with the centering bit positioned so the tip sits just inside the teeth of the hole saw.
4. Center the bit in your guide hole and start drilling. The idea is to drill out the bottom of the bed around the hole, and the goal is to get enough of the outer hole started so that the bit can be run without the centering bit, which you'll need to do when the centering bit bottoms out in your guide hole.
5. Finish off your big hole without the inner bit until you're through the bed. Just be careful not to go into the frame. This won't get you home, but you're almost there.
6. With the hole drilled, the bolts may drop through the cross members enough for you to get a sawzall on the bolt shank under the truck. All you really need is the thickness of a blade, so you could probably pound the head down the 1/8" or so. Then get under there and have at it.
I just did this a month ago, so I know it works, and was a real pain in the balls for me because the bolts were hidden by that 1/4" diamond plate.
Smitty
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well i worked on the bolts and i got one out with my grinder and 2 i got out with a wrench i am going to take out the rest with a air wrench there was two where the bumper is that just turned and the two on the other side where not striped so them was easy
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Are you trying to save the bed floor?
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well i worked on the bolts and i got one out with my grinder and 2 i got out with a wrench i am going to take out the rest with a air wrench there was two where the bumper is that just turned and the two on the other side where not striped so them was easy
Good deal. Keep working at it, and you'll get it. I tried the nutsplitter approach before the drastic cutting I did, but those nuts were too tough for the splitter. I fouled the drive point on a Craftsman one, and the one I got from Advanced auto didn't get through it.
Good luck with the impact wrench. Just remember you can still have success with a good breaker bar and a BFH. One of my cab mount bolts was ultra stubborn, the impact wrench didn't budge it at all after 5 minutes at wide open. Ten minutes of pounding on the breaker broke it free, and I tugged on the bar 1/6 of a turn at a time for another 20 minutes before the impact would turn it. I though for sure I would snap the bolt or round the head off before I was finished.
Good luck!
Smitty
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well i finally done it i got all the bolts with a wrench except 2 i had to grind the heads off of them
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0842.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0843.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0845.jpg)
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Nice work. Persistence pays. Now get all of those little projects done on the frame and undercarriage while the bed is off. Maybe slap a little POR15 on everything. Cab mounts would be a little easier to get to in the rear if your rubber mounts are getting shoddy.
Good job!
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what can i do about my frame beaning bent i thought that i could take a hammer and beat it back and make sure that it is level
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0846.jpg)
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Just wail it back into place with a big hammer. It might help to have two hammers. Hold one down on the top right at the bend, then use the other one to swat the low part back up in place.
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hey i was thinking is there a vin where my bed was
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I think the vin is by the steering box. I remember seeing a number under the left side of the cab but i am not positve.
thanks
pat
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ok thanks
I think the vin is by the steering box. I remember seeing a number under the left side of the cab but i am not positve.
thanks
pat
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well today i was going to take my bed harness off and i seen that my harness looked like a drop cord and some one rewired it and put it on there you can see it in the pic above
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lol... I'm sure you can pick up a factory used harness cheap. Maybe someone on here has an extra one. I have no more extra's left.
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How did they even get that to work? An extension cord only has three wires in it. The tail light harness has four wires.
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How did they even get that to work? An extension cord only has three wires in it. The tail light harness has four wires.
Maybe use the frame for the ground, the three wires for left turn, right turn, and tail. Forget about reverse lights... ;D
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Just when you thought you seen everything and something new pops up.Totally amazed on what people do to make things work thats totally beyond oddball.
thanks
pat
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well the extension cord it was cut off and had some kind of plugs on them
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Most times when I get a truck the tail light harness has usually been butchered beyond repair. I cut it up near the fire wall. I run new trailer wire back, I use the 8 / 1 black wire. That covers the stock 4 wires, plus a ground, power for a trailer plug, a wire for auxiliary back up lights on a switch, plus a spare. I also install a junction box on the rear cross member. Similar to this one.
http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/12vowijubox.html
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ok here is some pics
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0875.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/103_0878.jpg)
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Can you say cave man?
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Hack Job ::)
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Can you say cave man?
No not at all, that looks like the job of a Local "Electrical" Company that gets paid top dollar, for their "Quality Wiring Expertise" ::) Bet that Dusty's truck must have been their main contractors project :o Sorry Dusty, man I would play it safe, and just rewire the whole truck with a new harness(Really not that hard, especially when you go with a company like Painless/etc that clearly marks their wires).... It's just a Cheaper Insurance, than having to chase an idiots wiring Gremlins, or even prevent a possible fire :o :o
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yea i know i will go with American auto wire or painless
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Is the whole harness hacked, or just the rear lights? I sure wouldn't replace the whole harness if only the rear lights are hacked up...just replace the rear light section like Blazin said.
Most times when I get a truck the tail light harness has usually been butchered beyond repair. I cut it up near the fire wall. I run new trailer wire back, I use the 8 / 1 black wire. That covers the stock 4 wires, plus a ground, power for a trailer plug, a wire for auxiliary back up lights on a switch, plus a spare. I also install a junction box on the rear cross member. Similar to this one.
http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/12vowijubox.html
It would be much quicker, and better than stock (with the extra circuits).
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The light sockets are fine but the harness or should i say extension cord ;D was not it was cut up at the cab but i think i will get a painless or a American auto wire harness and wire the tail light sockets to it
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Your best bet is to get another harness from another truck and clean it and check it for cracks or any splices and use it this 1 looks pretty worn out and wiped and if your gonna go the route of making it a real nice cruiser, ditch it and throw it in the trash.
thanks
pat
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Don't throw the existing harness away if you go aftermarket, you may need some of the connectors....
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well i will be getting a bed this mouth it is alot better then mine was it just needs a little work. Both sections beside the rear posts of the floor are rusted out so i will be buying panels from chris to replace and weld in i will post pics when i get it
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well i have not got it yet but i thought i would go a head and show it
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed2061.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed2072.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/tn.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed2041.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed2091.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed20102.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed20112.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/truck20bed20121.jpg)
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Sure looks doable from the pics.
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Looks good but how bout under neath the supports and stuff??
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he said that it has been coated so it should be in good shape
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Sweet!
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nice score.
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well i got the tailgate band it has a few dings but i think i can fix them i hope
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/SANY0257.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/74chevy/SANY0255.jpg)