73-87chevytrucks.com
General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: frogman68 on April 14, 2008, 07:07:44 pm
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Just ordered some of this stuff and since I dont want to screw it up whats better spraying it or brush (roller) it on ?
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I would brush it on. If you want a smoother look do a finish roll on after the first coat. I wouldn't spray it simply do to the fact that if you even get a drop on you it ain't comin off!
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and i imagine that if you spray it you'll wreck ur gun lol
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I spray it allot. But you want full body protection. I was laying under a 1 ton Chevy spraying it once, my buddy decided I needed the garage door open a crack right behind me instead of the two windows across the room. The exhaust fan was running. When he opened the door it sucked all the spray right into my face. I had black specs all over my face for about 3 weeks.
I do brush it allot too. I use those cheap wood handle yellow / tan bristle brushes. If I know i am going to use the brush again the same day i clean it out with some brake clean. Toss it at the end of the day.
As long as you clean you gun good with lacquer thinner its fine.
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I wouldn't think twice about spraying it either. I spray POR15 straight out of the can several times with great results. Chassis Saver has the same consistency, so ....
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I thin it about 5 to 10% with the thinner they recommend.
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I thin it about 5 to 10% with the thinner they recommend.
I ordered the thinner from them too I am just a little worried since I really never sprayed with a gun before of screwing up and wasting it since its not really cheap :) .
I got a gun (HVLP) with a 1.4 tip so if when it comes in might mix a little and hit a piece of scrap.
Thanks guys hopefully pics this weekend (if the weather holds out)
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If you do nothing else, make sure you clean the top of the can, & lid so it looks like brand new, brand new I tell ya! Then use a layer of 2 mill plastic between the can and lid. Do every thing in your power to not bend the lid all up opening it or closing it. Make sure it is sealed / closed all the way. Also once its closed store it upside down, good rule of thumb for any paint as long as the lid is in good shape. Not doing this you will destroy the can opening it the second time, then anything left exposed will be junk in no time. This stuff is best used in two or three openings of the can. Oh yeah use rubber gloves too.
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All good points, Blazin... I have ruined one can already. One thing, if you get any on you, user thinner to remove it imediately or it will have to wear off.
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I agree it will clean off for about 5 or 10 minutes, after that all bets are off. Lacquer thinner or brake clean work the best.
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Well it has arrived and now I am a little scared :-*
The first thing I see is the warning
This product is to be used by a trained professional
Not for General Public Use.
I wasnt too scared after reading that but then I noticed that the respirator has to be for
Isocyanate .
Looking for a respirator I have found ones that state NOT FOR Isocyanate
So I looked that word up and this frightened me ..
Isocyanate Painting
All spraying of isocyanate paints must be done in a commercial or engineered paint booth, or one that is acceptable to the local fire authority. The painter must wear an air-supplied respirator.
Isocyanate Priming
Although primers contain less isocyanate than paints, they must be applied in a paint booth unless there is a separate shop area which meets the following criteria:
* The shop area must be separated from the rest of the shop by a barrier or screen.
* The shop area must be equipped with an explosion proof ventilation system.
* The barrier or screen and the ventilation system must cause air to move from adjoining areas into the priming area. This will prevent airborne isocyanates from entering areas where workers are not protected by air-supplied respirators.
* If there is any risk of fire, the employer must consult with the local fire authority about the acceptability of the shop area. Things that might create a fire hazard are: 1) the quantities of paint applied; 2) the method of application; 3) the location of the priming area; or, 4) the materials used in the construction of the priming area.
* The person who applies the primer must wear an air-supplied respirator. Even short duration priming tasks release unacceptably high levels of airborne isocyanate. Low-pressure spray guns release less airborne paint, but levels are still high enough that only air-supplied respirators provide sufficient protection.
http://www.nuglow.com/bathglow3.htm
So what do you guys use ?? I will be outside in a tent or am I just being a big baby ??
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I use a regular 3m painters reperator for Fumes and vapors. It will filter Iso's if it is new. If you start smelling paint, then you can assume Iso's are also getting through. This is a very much debated topic - it's up to you though to determine if you want to assume the risk.
This is what I use:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/respirator-lg.jpg)
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Why do you think I never spray that crap? It gets everywhere if you don't have a paint booth. Do it outside or get a brush.
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I work as a maint mech in a GM paint shop and we get tested every year for isocyanate exposure. Simply stated, You don't want that stuff in your lungs guys. It doesn't come out.
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It aint neva bothaad me none any no how :P
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See concerned look to the left right Blazin? :D
Seriously, I bought a filter for my mask when spraying POR15. If I brush it on, I wear it also.. I HATE the way that stuff smells..
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EXACTLY ::) ::)
I can't smell it if I have a mask on. I replace my mask every 3 or 4 overall paint jobs. If its just a bunch of touch ups or spot repairs I go about once a month.
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Well the MSDS states it needs to be a Air Positive Respirator I dont think the Oxy Acytelene torch will work