73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: Leevon on April 19, 2008, 08:39:39 pm
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I am trying to remove my coil springs because my truck has a 2" lean and the passenger side lower control arm won't budge. I've done this before with ease many times, but this one is being a PITA!
I've got the truck on jackstands, backed the castle nut off the ball joint, placed jack under LCA and lowered but it's stuck. Used pickle fork, big hammer, cause words, nothing will budge it. I also tried jacking the UCA to let the spring pressure push the ball joint out but no joy.
Anybody have this happen, Any suggestions?
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well, if you have access to it, you might need to heat up the spindle a little, and then try the pickle fork/big hammer/curse words again...but don't heat it TOO much, or you can weaken it...
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SgtDel has a little write up on replacing balljoints on his website (http://www.delbridge.net/) (go to the section for his '79 pickup where there is link to the balljoint write up). He ended up making a tool to remove the lower balljoint from the spindle. Check it out.
Oh and even though it's stressed in SgtDel's article, I thought I should reiterate...be careful with that spring. It has more than enough stored energy to fly out break your face. Your idea of jacking the UCA and letting the spring push the balljoint out was a dangerous one.
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That tool Del made is also mentioned in the Haynes manual. I found a 6" bolt at the hardware store and used a 1/2" drive deep-wall socket. Mine were on so hard I messed up two bolts getting both sides apart, had to use a 2lb hammer against a wrench to get the nut to turn. The coarse thread made them very hard to turn under load, so you may want to try a fine-thread bolt. This method works well.
And don't fool around with springs. I even tied mine off with some chain before I let them down slowly. If something shifts or give way, that sucker is coming out like a bullet.
Good luck!
Smitty
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SgtDel has a little write up on replacing balljoints on his website (http://www.delbridge.net/) (go to the section for his '79 pickup where there is link to the balljoint write up). He ended up making a tool to remove the lower balljoint from the spindle. Check it out.
Oh and even though it's stressed in SgtDel's article, I thought I should reiterate...be careful with that spring. It has more than enough stored energy to fly out break your face. Your idea of jacking the UCA and letting the spring push the balljoint out was a dangerous one.
I understand, that's why I only backed the castle nut off a little bit to give it some room. Once it pops loose, I usually chain the spring, place a jack under the LCA, remove the nut, lower jack...
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm just trying to get the spring out, no need to remove the ball joint at this time. Been there done that, it's a pain. I am going to try a bottle jack between the LCA and UCA (with castle nut on ball joint of course) and also a gear puller on LCA to ball joint.
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That tool I'm referring to is only intended to get the lower ball joint unstuck from the spindle (this is what you are trying to do right?). It is not a ball joint puller. Did you check out SgtDel's article?
Oh and in my last post, I wasn't trying to talk down to you, like you had no experience working on your truck, I just know how easy it is to forget or get lazy about the little things that could save you from getting injured. Good luck.
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I hope it is OK to link to this guys site.
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/eibach.htm (http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/eibach.htm)
This guys site is very good and I think he needs a big THANK YOU for the work done!
This is the way I do it and it worked very nice. I do not like to disturb the ball joint's as there is the problem of tearing the rubber seal and then you almost have to replace the ball joint if you use a pickle fork as you will gouge it.
IF done right it seems to be a safe and clean way of just swapping springs.
However just to be safe I would always wrap the spring with a safety chain, And always wear your safety glasses.
But really if done right there was no danger as once the U bolts are taken off, with a floor jack under the LCA, it just lowered right down and you could pull the old coil right out.
Just make sure the truck is high enough up off the ground to give you plenty of room for the floor jack and to lower the LCA down.
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The ball stud is a tapered fit into the knuckle. Just loosen the nut on the lower ball joint and strike the steering knuckle with a 3lb sledge. The shock will cause it to pop apart. Just hit it dead on and picture your worst enemy when you swing the hammer. It's that easy.
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Bringing up an old thread here.
Having this same problem getting the lower BJ out of the spindle.
Keep hearing to hit the spindle with a BFH and have been wacking
on the 'flat spot' of the spindle with a 12 pound sledge....no nothing
Have a great BJ press remover I borrowed but because the spindle is still
attached to the lower control arm I can't get it on to use it
Have no heat or air tools.
Thought of just cutting the BJ with my grinder between the spindle and lower
control arm but grinder can't get to it.
Going to try this from the write up on 73-87:
"They make a tool to help remove the lower ball joint, but I made my own. I used a long 1/2" bolt and nut, washer. The bolt needs to be threaded all the way up. Stick the open end of the bolt down through the upper ball joint hole in the spindle. Put the flat washer and then the nut onto the bolt. Hold the end of the bolt onto the end of the lower ball joint stud and tighten the nut until it makes contact with the spindle. With the floor jack under the lower control arm to hold it up level, remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut a few threads. Don't remove the nut all the way yet. Now tighten the nut on the home made ball joint removal tool and while tightening use a 2 pound hammer to rap on the spindle right beside the ball joint. Keep tightening the nut and rapping the spindle until it breaks loose."
Not exactly sure on the threaded bolt and nut placement??? Any one try this who can explain it a different way??
Having a very hard time finding a bolt that long threaded all the way up
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I think it goes like this:
long bolt through the following...
top bj spindle hole
washer
nut
then, make it contact lower bj threaded stud from above
tighten the nut until the bolt starts pushing the lower ball joint out.
can you fine some 1/2" all thread? cut you own threads on a long bolt whith a die?
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Got IT out !!
Used a coupling nut and two bolts to make a spreader
and once I had some good pressure on it wacked at it
again with the sledge.
Worked good
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excellent!
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This may a dumb question, but how do I remove the rest of the ball joint, after it is free from the knuckle?
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It presses out. You need a ball joint press or take the whole LCA to have a shop do it.
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This may a dumb question, but how do I remove the rest of the ball joint, after it is free from the knuckle?
tell us more about what your working on also so we know what you would have to do