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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: buriesjeeps on May 28, 2008, 01:19:03 am
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Well to start with I sold my 5.3 and got a bigger 6.0 and I have one major question, I've seen these stand alone harness kits that work for motor swaps from the newer ls series trucks that run the ecu so I dont have to tear apart the harness my question is has anyone heard of or had any good or bad experiences with these.
This is the one I am looking at:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330239643181 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=330239643181)
thanks to any and all replies
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Pretty enticing price when you compare to a Painless harness at $400+. I notice that all the wires are the same color,and it doesn't say if the're tagged or not. But still, the price is so good- it might not be a bad buy.
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check his feedback
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Looks funky. But if it works, it's got to be the best deal out there. When I was considering the 6.0 swap I was gonna to go with Nelson Performance for a custom harness. They are not cheap by any strech of the imagination, but look super clean and I know lots of people on LS1trucks.com that have great things to say about them. BTW you should also be a checking with the guys on the above forum for advice as you perform this swap. There's a conversions section dedicated to LS swaps. Not saying that the pros here can't help you, but you should always try to draw from the largest pool of knowledge available.
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Its a rip off, you still have to have a harness for this to work, and you still have to manipulate it for this to plug in. If you are going to do that it would be easier to just remove what you don't need... If you got the motor, you should have gotten the harness and ECM for it.
Harness: (You have to rework your own harness to get this ready to add on, this controls power and more to the harness and computer)Designed to convert your Engine Harness Stand-Alone for most Swaps(Stand-Alone is where you can put your engine in any vehicle and all you have to hook up is power, ignition, and ground wires)
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the new motor has the ecu and complete harness I just figured it would be easier but if that wont work oh well.
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I am not saying it "won't work" but I don't see what you are going to gain if you still have to rework the existing harness.
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the new motor has the ecu and complete harness I just figured it would be easier but if that wont work oh well.
I can send you my spread sheet, I have all the wires you need to keep labeled. You can wire it your self for nothing. I did mine this way.
Even if you get a Painless or a Speartech harness, you will need to send your ECM to some one who can reprogram it for you. There are a number of people that can do this for you.
here is my email. bowtie_or_nothin@yahoo.com
If you don't want to do it your self, send it to Spear Tech. John is top notch and does perfect work. He reflashes ECM's as well.
http://www.speartech.com/
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That would help out alot. What all should I have removed from the ecu as well. Thanks guys
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email sent. You will have all of 6 hours in your harness, if you take your time, maybe longer. Lay it all out and try to label everything the best you can. Take off all of the lume and tape. The plugs that go into the computor come apart. If you look at it, you can easily figure out how to remove each wire you don't need from the red and blue plugs. They come out through the bottom so you will have to snip each wire to get it fully removed. Give you self a foot or so on most, you will need a few wires you remove from the red and blue pins to add back in.
Let me know if you have problems, or have questions about what I sent you.
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Bowtie, care to share the spreadsheet with the rest of the community? I have had others asking for something like that.
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I could probably do that. Can I send it to you and you post it? Not sure how to post a file.
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Yeah, shoot it to me and I can post it. You can upload it via the additional option tab.
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Wiring is done... now the transmission (th350) how can I tell if my engine has the long crankshaft or if i need to buy the crankshaft spacer?
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All cranks are the same length. Stock LS flexplates for 4L60E's have a slight dish to them. You will need a spacer for your TH350.
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All cranks are the same length. Stock LS flexplates for 4L60E's have a slight dish to them. You will need a spacer for your TH350.
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Where are the pics????? I want to see your swap photos!
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I will try to get some pics on here pretty soon (the camera doesnt like the computer), any suggestions on an inline fuel pump?
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http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3138&N=700+115&autoview=sku
This is the one I was going to get, but I ended up doing an intank pump.
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I would run an intank pump if it were mine.
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What kind of intank pump did you run? and how could I do that and run Dual tanks do anyone have a tank selector valve that will handle that much pressure
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Yes, you can get one from autozone to handle the pressure, I have the PN somewhere, but you can look it up...
To run a stock intank just get an 87-up EFI sending unit and bolt a 241 (corvette) pump to it.
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JC Whitney has the valve too. I was scared off though, the return is 1/4" and the supply is only 5/16's, maybe that is ok, but I was concerned, until I am told other wise.
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Feeds on mine are 3/8" and the return was 5/16, just like factory.
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Bowtie I noticed on your spreadsheet that you had a bunch of hose ends fittings and adapters, just wondering where everything went on the motor? and did you use braided hose or rubber hose and about how much in length? Thanks Chris
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a lot of the fittings ane what not are on the tranny lines/ps pump lines. I purchased 20 ft of SS braided aeroquip -6 stuff. I used an 87 sending unit and put tube nuts to -6 male ends at the sending unit, and used the factory steel lines up the frame. Put tube nuts with male -6 at both the supply and return front and rear of the lines in the frame. I made 2, 2ft SSbraded with -6 females to go from the sending unit to the frame fuel lines. ( note, I swapped the vent and return, factory 79 return is only 1/4" and the vent is 5/16's, the 87 sending unit was already this way )
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c187/BJP8_2_03/P1010014-2.jpg)
At the front where you would run the short rubber hoses to your mechanical pump on a small block, I routed 2 stainless steel lines up and around the block to the back of the intake, and into the fuel rails. I used the Russel quick disconnect fittings to the stock inlet and outlet at the rail.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c187/BJP8_2_03/P1010015-1.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c187/BJP8_2_03/P1010017.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c187/BJP8_2_03/P1010013-1.jpg)
I would suggest you use filter that is at least 20 microns. The one I have is 40, and it bothers me, I need to add another one, or get a 20 micron filter in place of the one I am running.
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I used the 87-up Sending unit and a 241 pump in place of the TBI pump. I ran my lines down the frame rail and tied into the rear fuel lines on the LS.
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/trans_fuellines1.jpg)
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/fuellines1.jpg)
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finally got some pics on photobucket, the last few are of the swap
http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/quicksixer/