73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Skunksmash on July 19, 2008, 05:28:18 am
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At first i guess it would seem the 350 should get slightly less, but that is not always the case with engines. I have seen smaller factory motors get the same or less than larger ones. I used to have an all stock 95 GT mustang 5.0 and the v6 my Girlfriend drove got the same mileage my car did. Around 22 mpg. In these times of extreme gas prices, i might like to build (or buy) a 305 to go in my truck until the whole gas war thing calms down. What do you think the best V8 engine would be for mileage? The first one that comes to mind for me is a 2 barrel carbed 305. I used to have one in an 82 silverado longbed, and that thing got around 20 MPG. Not to bad for a full size truck. I got a brand new F-150 work truck and that thing gets a pathetic 17 MPG. (course it is a ext cab 4X4) My old 82 with the 305 wasnt a hot rod, or fast by any standard, but it would pull a boat or a trailer with an average car on it just fine. And i can always switch back to a 350 if i want to. What is your opinion? Which V8 do you think could be made to achieve the best mileage?
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I got a brand new F-150 work truck and that thing gets a pathetic 17 MPG. (course it is a ext cab 4X4)
That's not pathetic. I wish my 383 stroker engine got that in my 79. I'd jump up and down then do a Tiger Woods Pump with my arm.
Many here would say you can create up setup with a 350 and a higher gear rear (if you do a lot of highway driving) and tune the carb so that it could get close to 20. Fuel injected would be better. However, you can do the same with a 305, which may get a little better, if it has the umph to do what you want. However, if on a 305, you have to keep the gas pedal down further, it will use more gas.
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I'd jump up and down then do a Tiger Woods Pump with my arm.
Then you would be out of work with a bum knee!
My 305 with a 2.76 rear gets me about 15 mpg but it is mated to a th400 and has had "some" work done to it. Its fed through a 600 Edelbrock, 9.5:1 compression, long tubes, big crane cam.
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Hmm, so 3:73's would be better for city mileage? I would like to pull out every trick in the book to get better mileage. I hear aftermarket headers can do it. As well as a hotter ignition system. Any other options? I really dont care about having tons of power. I mean i would like to be able to pull a fiberglass bass boat, but thats about it. If i have to sacrifice power as long as i can still do that, i dont care.
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a 3.73 is a low gear but may be what you need for city driving---so you won't have to keep gas pedal down all the time with a taller gear.
I have 3.08 in my 79 w/ the stroker engine. I wish it was a little lower gear, say around a 3.50 or so. I do little highway driving with it. However it is nice w/ the 3.08, the rpms stay kinda low.
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well, basically, what SgtDel said is the key. if you can keep the 305 from struggling (not an easy task in such a big pickup) then it will do alright, but in my experience a 350 will get better mileage 80% of the time in these heavy trucks...
BTW, 90% of statistics are correct 50% of the time...and 100% of the time you can get statistics to say what you want 'em to...lol
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In my opinion, a 5 speed is the way to go. I would like to swap in a t5 from a camaro so that i have a tight ratio to run through the gears as well as a good OD ratio (.7:1 I believe). I could then jump to a 3.73 gear set and have the best of both worlds. I could pull whatever and then grab a hold of OD on the highway and keep the revs down. Not to mention, sticks add to the cool factor... ;)
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Standards are really not my cup of tea, unless in a sports car. I like my truck for cruising, hauling stuff, and showing off something pretty. I would not want to have to be shifting gears while doing all that lol.
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What is the current setup of the truck now? Realisitcally you can build either motor for mileage, you just need to put it together as a package. What one person gets in mileage won't be the same as someone else. Grandpaw who never drives over 55mph on the highway is going to get better mileage than an 18 year old running 75-80mph in the same truck.
3.73 gears are going to be to much, 3.42's is a better choice and Overdrive trans would be best.
Check the what mileage are you getting post...
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Going with a 700R4 overdrive trans is probably your best bet to keeping RPM's low on the highway for good mileage. Around town it's hard to say 305 vs. 350. Just like V6's in full size trucks, they have to work a lot harder to pull around the same weight. 305 wouldn't be so bad. You could build a totally economy 305 with a really mild cam, QJ carb for the tiny primaries, etc. and put tall gears in it like under 3.00. Keeping it in excellent tune though is key and so is a really light foot.
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I'd get the S/R Torquer heads for the 305 too.
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My current setup it just a stock 350 with an automatic tranny. I assume it is a 4 speed (thank God) because it has that little circle around the D for "drive" on the gear selector. As we all know that circle is supposed to be an "O" for overdrive. 87 long bed TBI is the type of truck. Silverado, but I guess that part does not matter lol.
But I thought a 305 was plenty powerful enough and would not be having to work to hard to pull around a typical half ton truck. I may be mistaken here, but in comparisson to a lot of the cars out there, they really don't weight that much. What is the typical weight of a stock truck? 3000lbs? Maybe 3500?
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3000 lbs? :D
4500 for your '87 longbed is closer to being right..
My '83 shortbed, completely empty except for me (225 lbs) and a full tank of gas, weighed in at over 4000 lbs...almost 4200 actually..I probably have the scale slip stuffed in the sidepocket...
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3900 for a SWB and 4200 for a LWB on the non-equipped side.
My 89 (same as the 87) 305 has plenty of power for pulling my 15' Seadoo Speedster, and it gets respectable mileage also.
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In times like this, where we have extreme gas prices, i think we need a sticky at the top of one of the forums that goes over all the things you can do to improve your mileage. Even if it just little things. By the time a person added up all the little tricks in the book, i bet they could see a 5 mpg increase. Would be awesome to have all the tricks in one place.
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IMO, there has been far too much concern about squeezing minuscule mileage improvements out of a squarebody lately..by the time you do everything to get that theoretical 5 mpg increase (it'd be more like 2 mpg), unless you drive 100k miles per year, you're going to spend 5 years recouping the cost..If you really want to see a difference, swap in a 93-95 6.5 turbo diesel, and rid the country of some of its excess waste vegetable oil and make your own bio diesel..or do a cummins swap..or find the post awhile back that regarded a CAT swap..a combonation of the increased MPG and the low fuel cost would take less time to recoup an even higher cost..then when some environmentalist nazi starts screaming at you, you can verbally smack them down because you run on a mostly environmentally friendly fuel.
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I agree, the max you can realistically expect from a pickup of our vintage in 2WD form is about 17mpg City and 22mpg Highway. Anything else is going to dreaming. If you need better mileage than this, you can do like werewoldx13 said and convert to a Diesel and make your own biofuel which may get you closer to 25-27mpg highway, or sell it and get a Prius.
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People are behaving ridiculously when it comes to gas mileage. They are trading their full size SUVs for mid-size SUVs (because they still need something large enough to bully cars around) and loosing thousands on trade-in, or investing hundreds in fuel saving modifications. But the one thing Americans abolutely refuse to do is SLOW DOWN!!! Try cruising at 55 instead of 65, forget speeds between 70 and 80 if you care at all about fuel economy. And don't take off like John Force every time the light turns green. Also avoid driving at times or in areas of heavy traffic. My fuel economy has been as bad as 11 mpg and as good as 18 mpg (and I know I can improve on this one) based soley on my driving style. And if you are dong all of these things and you are still not satisfied, look for something else, preferably a used compact car if you want to see any ROI any time soon. Rant over.
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Let me get rid of my 30 year old truck that is paid for that gets 14 mpg and spend $30k on a new truck that gets 20mpg....yeah, that will save me money.
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Let me get rid of my 30 year old truck that is paid for that gets 14 mpg and spend $30k on a new truck that gets 20mpg....yeah, that will save me money.
My point exactly. People are doing exactly this with the idea that it's a good investment for the fuel savings, when all along they only need to remove that lead weight strapped to their right foot.
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90% of the time It is more cost worthy to keep a vehicle that is paid for and getting 12mpg than to sell it at a loss and buy a new $25K car that gets say 25mpg.
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Let me get rid of my 30 year old truck that is paid for that gets 14 mpg and spend $30k on a new truck that gets 20mpg....yeah, that will save me money.
My point exactly. People are doing exactly this with the idea that it's a good investment for the fuel savings, when all along they only need to remove that lead weight strapped to their right foot.
A+ Y'all get the prize.
Payments + Insurance + License Tags for New Vehicle = A Bunch of Gas.
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A+ Y'all get the prize.
Well, someone was bound to crack the great fuel economy mystery sooner or later. I'm just glad it was me.
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Well, there are still some cheap minor things that can be done. It is not all "too expensive" as yall say. Synthetic oil. A tune up. Take off the tailgate when not needed. Make sure you have good tire pressure. Drive like a responsible adult instead of a teenager. I am talking about things like that. All those are things that need to be done anyway, and there are a lot of little tricks like that. And even if i spend some money on a more fuel efficient exhaust upgrade, or other gas saving engine mod or parts, i still intend to keep the truck for many years, possibly the rest of my life. So yeah, eventually i will get a return on my investment in the form of savings. Sure it will take a long time. But how many of us are running bone stock exhaust anyway? Not to mention other parts that can help out. I dont think it is as futile as yall seem to think it is.
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Synthetic oil doesn't change gas mileage, I run it exclusively in all my vehicles. It gets no better or worse mileage than when it was dino oil.
Removing the tailgate yeilds no benefit either. Tried and tested that myself. I have purchased a bed cover, but I don't expect huge amounts of savings though.
Tune-up; I think it goes without saying that any vehicle needs to be in tune.
Improper tire pressure will kill gas mileage, so yeah that will help.
driving responsible will help, I gained almost 2mpg when I slowed down in normal commuting.
I have a stock exhaust on my Crew Cab, there isn't going to be any huge benefits from me changing it just to gain 1mpg or less.
As I said 17/22 is about the max any pickup of our bodystyle will ever see. With TBI it will be fairly easy, with a Carb, you are looking at about 13/20 and 4x4 just doesn't = mpg no matter how you slice it.
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Swap in a Stirling engine and a set of bicycle pedals and you'll get 300 mpg
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Swap in a Stirling engine and a set of bicycle pedals and you'll get 300 mpg
Or cut a hole in the floorboard and cruise Flintstones-style.
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Swap in a Stirling engine and a set of bicycle pedals and you'll get 300 mpg
1) Please elaborate.
2) i'm probably going to go whole-hog with the aerodynamics thing in a few weeks. And here is where, i think, the 73-87 and for that matter any fullsize truck will shine:
a) blocking off the grill. If you look carefully at the front end, you will notice that the radiator area is actually smaller than the grill area, so these places, at least, can be blocked off with no cooling penaltly. i further believe that some of the radiator area can also be blocked off with little to no cooling penaltly.
We must remember the 3rd/4th gen trans/camaros and corvettes from 84 on------really no grill to speak off and yet they have every bit of 350 cubes with no cooling issues.
b) the area between the framerails and the body on the underside. i plan to use thin gauge sheet metal. More details to follow. Big gains here, i feel.
c) the tonneau cover. We've discussed this before and i feel that there are significant gains to be made here. A decent cover does not cost much, for all practical purposes does not add weight. So the "return on investment" will be fast.
d) there is a special air dam offered on a few special edition trucks. i don't have time to look for it now, but i feel this could siginificantly help out mpg.
P.S., the 305 wins hands down in mpg. Will elaborate later.
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In times like this, where we have extreme gas prices.....
anytime im close to the border, i swing down to the states to fill up....you guys have it good down there still, trust me.
fuel prices here are about $1.41 per liter. converted into gallons, thats $5.32. and thats for 87 octane. its another 10 cents per liter for 92
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anytime im close to the border, i swing down to the states to fill up....you guys have it good down there still, trust me.
That's funny. Anytime drivers in Ariz, Calif, New Mexicao and Texas near the Mexico border, they dive down to get gas in Mexico. They have it good down there. ;D
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My truck has an air dam that I think was used on the later Suburbans and Blazers. It looks good but it's also getting beat up from anything that has a slope to it when I pull in (like my driveway) and it does block air from going up into the rad. If you are going to block off the nose to improve aerodynamics, then you are wise to get the air deflector that installs below the rad and do NOT get the air dam. Those F-bodies need the underbody deflector to direct air up to the rad.
If you really want to get serious about cleaning up the drag coefficient then the front of the vehicle has to be as flush as possible. All the gaps have to be filled or as tight fitting and flush to each other as possible. Recesses create drag. Think of the Charger 500 and Talledega Fords. Put headlight covers (clear if you like) on, tuck the bumper, tighten the hood clearance, etc.
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I have to disagree with synthetic oil not helping MPG. In my experience, several times i have seen it work. Now, i'll give it to you that this was not on one of these trucks. I have not tried it on one yet but i intend to. I had a 95 GT mustang where you could literally feel the difference between the two types of oils. It got anywhere from 1-3 MPG better with synthetic oil. Same goes for my honda Civic. There was no noticeable change in the way it ran, but i would closely monitor MPG in that car (and i still do) and it leaped up from 26 MPG to 31 MPG with the only change being the change to synthetic oil. Also noticed this on an Oldsmobile i used to have.
One other thing that seems like it would help out MPG might be the switch to an electric fan, instead of that factory belt driven one. Also, an electric water pump might help out, but i have no idea i have never had an electric water pump. It just stands to reason that if the engine does not have to work as hard, it can save a little bit more gas.
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You would be disagreeing with reality and facts, because I tested it on my 73 w/454/4speed when I switch and I also tested it on my 87 305TBI/700R4 when I switched. The Crew Cab is up for a switch soon and right now it gets 13/17.
Comparing it to a Honda 4 cylinder wouldn't be a good comparison IMHO
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I've heard that synthetics aren't good for flat-tappet cams anyways. Apparently they lubricate so well that the lifters don't have enough friction to rotate properly in their bores which accelerate cam/lifter wear. I switched to full sythetic in my mother's Acura TL-S and my sister's Toyota Avalon; neither saw an increase in mpg. I just did it to extend the change interval and reduce sludge buildup. A 5 mpg gain in a Civic seems bogus. Something else must have changed.
Electric fans will increase fuel efficiency only if they stay off most of the time. If you do mostly city driving, which would cause them to remain on most of the time they will not improve mpg due to the increased load (drag) at the alternator. An electric water pump absolutely would not help out, they are only good for dynos and extended low speed (and rpm) cruising situations.
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hmm my reply has vanished. ??? Oh well....
Blocking off the radiator is not a good idea. F bodies use the air dam to direct air flow through the cooling system. Without it they overheat.
As far as synthetics go every company marketing their oils says the same thing, longer life, better mileage etc but the bottom line is the difference you spend in $ on the synthetics equates to the $.01 pennies you save in fuel mileage. Lower viscosity will produce less windage. To change to synthetic and expect noticeable increases is not very realistic. You will typical notice a difference after an oil change especially if the oil is broken down and contaminated.
A 350 can produce more power and less fuel consumption than a 305 if the 305 is working harder. The engine should match the vehicles intended useage.
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At $6 a quart compared to $2 a quart Vile is correct.
Vile, Where did it go? It wasn't removed based on the admin logs...
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No idea. It just vanished ??? Oh well
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Bermuda ThreadAngle
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When i switched to Mobil 1 synth 10W-30 about 2 months ago, i got a 1.5mpg increase. But my latest figures are now close to the same as my orignal figures----15.8 mpg. So i'm thinking it may have been because the previous oil was really broken down---it was the same oil as when i bought the truck about 2 yrs ago.
Right now i would prefer to state that mpg increases due to switching to synthetics are inconclusive at this time.
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I tested sythnetic oil in my 2007 kawasaki ninja zx-6r..i was getting a constant 35.6mpg with dinasaur oil, and i switched to amsoil 10-40 and my milage has gone to 37.9 on my last fuel up. oil temp dropped quite a bit also
i dont think i would waste money running synthetic in my old junker truck..but it does great in the quad and bike
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I run synthetics in my toys too but my Jeep has 300K original miles on nothin but cheap oil. I just did my oil change on it the other day and used synthetic because one of my vendors gave me a few free cases so I ran it. There was no fuel mileage increase.
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In my 87 I had a 700r4 tranny. With that said, I got better mileage out of the 400 I put in it that I did with the 305 that came out of it. Where i was driving was a bit hilly, and the 400 had enough power that the trans never downshifted and rarely unlocked the converter, whereas the 305 had to drop down to 3rd on almost every hill. With a 3 speed auto though, smaller size probably = better mileage. If you live where it's mostly flat ground, te smaller engine would do just fine since there's no hills to climb. I also had a tall rear end with a 2.80 to 2.90 something ratio and 32 inch tires so at 70MPH the engine was only turning like 1600RPM.
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A Honda Civic now a Kawasaki Ninja seeing gains of 5 mpg and 3 mpg respectively. I find that hard to believe. I'm not saying that you're lying about your mileage, but rather that something else must have changed, like the driving style or route taken, maybe different tires (lower frictional losses, maybe lighter), etc. The only thing a synthetic can do is reduce windage (very slightly) and reduce the friction on bearing surfaces (very slightly) and the engines in these two machines are already built for very high efficiency. Maybe you might see gains in something like a 1790 cubic inch V12 engine out of a Patton tank where the bearing surfaces are large and many, just not in one these tiny efficient modern engines. In fact if a civic were getting as poor as 26 mpg (my mother's mid-size 3.2 V6 averages 25-26 BTW) it was either doing alot of idling in traffic or being driven very aggressively; same to the ninja (flying down the highway, weaving in and out of traffic, at triple-digit speeds much?) wouldn't that thing get closer to 45 mpg if driven normally? My stepdad's 850 lb Harley can get 35 mpg.
BTW: Try not to get irritated by anything I said here. I'm no expert and I could be wrong, but I'm just voicing what I think is logical on the subject.
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When i switched to Mobil 1 synth 10W-30 about 2 months ago, i got a 1.5mpg increase. But my latest figures are now close to the same as my orignal figures----15.8 mpg. So i'm thinking it may have been because the previous oil was really broken down---it was the same oil as when i bought the truck about 2 yrs ago.
Right now i would prefer to state that mpg increases due to switching to synthetics are inconclusive at this time.
That statement might be true of any Car/Truck/Van made after 1986(If not Newer), but not so with anything under that timeline...... Newer Cars/Trucks/Vans are able to handle Synthetics alot easier, and yes can even see Mileage increase due to less friction.... Older Cars/Trucks/Vans are more likely to see no benefits at all, but you are more likely to see a Nice Large Expensive Synthetic Oil Slick in your parking space/driveway(Thinner Synthetics will find the Cracks,Pin Holes,Flaws that are common in the older engines, and it will make an escape path quicker than the thicker Conventional Oil will)..... :o
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Well, i can say this. My mom has an 07 trailblazer, and my granny has one of those small Lincoln suv's. Whats it called? MKX? MXK? I dont know but i do know that both of those engines call for syntetic oil only. The trailblazer even says that you may void your warranty if you dont use the oil. The lincoln will not even run right on the old kind. I once had to have the manager re-change the oil in Granny's 05 Lincoln LS (a 4 door sedan) because when i drove it up to the quick lube, it ran fine. I told them only sythetic oil. When i tried to leave, i got a few miles down the road and it ran like hammered crap. I realized the only thing that had changed was the oil, and so i went back and asked what oil and he said they had put in, and it was some cheap crap regular. They changed it back, and what do you know, the car ran just fine. Now i know this does not prove anything, but it does tell us that the automakers are switching to run sythetics more than the old stuff. If so little was to be gained by using synthetics, then why would they even mess with it? Not saying our old trucks will see any noticeable difference.
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Newer vehicles have components in them that were designed to run on synthetic oil
Older vehicles were not, in fact if you do a search (when we get it fixed) you will find that some of the "lube" that was once in old oil is being phased out, and a few members have seen the effects of this.
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Newer vehicles have components in them that were designed to run on synthetic oil
Older vehicles were not, in fact if you do a search (when we get it fixed) you will find that some of the "lube" that was once in old oil is being phased out, and a few members have seen the effects of this.
I guess you are referring to the disappearance of ZDDP and its affect on flat tappet cams. I'm considering a roller cam when I swap cams, but it's just too much $$$.
I thought that synthetic only requirements were reserved for exotics like the Vette, Ferrari, Porsche, etc. You learn something new everyday. I guess that's just one more reason never to consider owning a Trailblazer or a Lincoln MKX. LOL.
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my 84 k5 blazer has had a 305, 267, 350, and a different 305 in it, all stock, all with quarajets. Every engine got the same exact mileage in this blazer.
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That's what i'm suspecting; If all of the factors are equal----same compression, heads, cam etc. then i think the 305 will get better mileage than a 350 in a fullsize truck. The only diff between 305 and 350 is the bore size?
Or, if the quadrajet is used, the engines may get identical mileage. Although that somehow does not seem possible?
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I thought that synthetic only requirements were reserved for exotics like the Vette, Ferrari, Porsche, etc. You learn something new everyday. I guess that's just one more reason never to consider owning a Trailblazer or a Lincoln MKX. LOL.
Originally it was, but the stricter Emissions Standards and Such over the years, have pushed everything up in Automotive Manufacturing.... The Engines today are produced in such a way now, some Manufacturers have begun Voiding Warranties of those individuals who don't follow their Service Recommendations to a T(Such as trying to use a Non-Synthetic/Blended Synthetic, when a Full Synthetic Only was Specified).....
That's what i'm suspecting; If all of the factors are equal----same compression, heads, cam etc. then i think the 305 will get better mileage than a 350 in a fullsize truck. The only diff between 305 and 350 is the bore size?
Or, if the quadrajet is used, the engines may get identical mileage. Although that somehow does not seem possible?
Again that really depends on what the Engine was used in..... In dumbucket1's case his exerience was with a Fullsize Blazer, had it been a 4X4 Fullsize pickup, the 350 would have gotten the better gas mileage.... Now if he had say a SWB, maybe LWB C10(C20 would be pushing it), the 305 would get the better gas mileage as it wouldn't be dogging as much as it would in a 4wd..... Also if if you a Midsized Car, say a Monte Carlo, the 267 would get the better MPG's than the 305 and 350.... If it was a Fullsize Car/Sedan, the 305 would get the better MPG's, as the 267 would dog too much(Although make it a Multi Port Fuel Injection 265Ci, it would get better Gas Mileage than the 267 Carb'd 305/350 Carb'd/TBI/MPFI ;))....
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Newer vehicles have components in them that were designed to run on synthetic oil
Older vehicles were not, in fact if you do a search (when we get it fixed) you will find that some of the "lube" that was once in old oil is being phased out, and a few members have seen the effects of this.
I guess you are referring to the disappearance of ZDDP and its affect on flat tappet cams. I'm considering a roller cam when I swap cams, but it's just too much $$$.
I thought that synthetic only requirements were reserved for exotics like the Vette, Ferrari, Porsche, etc. You learn something new everyday. I guess that's just one more reason never to consider owning a Trailblazer or a Lincoln MKX. LOL.
Soon enough, if you buy a new vehicle you wont have a choice. If the trend continues the way it has for the last bit.
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>:( :( >:( All of this environmental awareness crap is starting to give me a headache. I should have been born in the 40's when hot rodding was in its infancy. My next project is a time machine. Does anyone here know anything about DeLoreans?
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Does anyone here know anything about DeLoreans?
Yes, I grew up in the 80's and yes I watch Back to the Future. Two words: Stainless Steel
(http://www.delbridge.net/delorean.jpg)
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Power to weight ratio dictates what engine will be more economical. Delorians were POS's and I saw many catch on fire and burn up. Not so cool when everyone is looking at your time machine go back in time to ash. lol
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Take a Delorean and throw in a 383 stroker engine....Oh Yeah!! ;D
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>:( :( >:( All of this environmental awareness crap is starting to give me a headache. I should have been born in the 40's when hot rodding was in its infancy. My next project is a time machine. Does anyone here know anything about DeLoreans?
Sure just check out the new Website for Parts and Etc...
http://www.delorean.com/
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Its a cool car for sure. I would have liked to see what the next gen of that car would have been. Surely there is some record somewhere of what they had plans for. As soon as the finish one gen, they usually get to work on the next. There must be some stuff left over somewhere that could show us what it might have looked like.
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I don't know that a second gen was ever in the works. It all kind of came to a crashing halt when the owner of DMC was arrested for drug trafficing (or something along those lines).
Oh and BTW. I meant the DeLorean Back To the Future reference as a joke, sorry this turned into a DMC discussion thread. I don't see anything really special about this car then or now (the new official world headquarters is just down the road from me, where there are offering them as both used and newly refurbished cars). They had a decent chassis because it was stolen from Lotus, but they were under-performers in every other sense (those PRV V6s were garbage). When they were new, you could grab a Mazda RX-7 for something like $10K less and smoke a DeLorean.
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Well, to get sorta back on topic, i found out that you can use synthetic oil with flat tappet cams, if you use a zing additive. So that way you get the benefits of getting to use synthetic oil without doing any harm.
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You can also get away with using a good Synthetic Blend, that will allow you some of the benefits of both worlds.... Basically you get an Oil that allows you less friction from being thinner than conventional oil, but at the sametime still has alot of the Various Minerals Older Engines(90's and earlier, under 100,000) still need.... Since it is a Blend, it won't be as thin as true Full Synthetics, therefore it won't find as many of the areas that are leak prone...
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Or, you can use a diesel engine oil like Shell Rotella-T. Those oils don't have to follow the exact same standards are automotive gasoline oils and have higher levels of ZDDP. That's what I'm now using in my truck.
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All the diesel oils are losing their ZDDP additives too. At least that's what I heard.
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All the diesel oils are losing their ZDDP additives too. At least that's what I heard.
Anyone know why?[youtube=425,350][/youtube]