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(I'm redoing this post because all my pictures were missing)
The interior was pretty tired and worn out.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/interior.jpg)
Rats were living in the bed side panels.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/ratty3.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Ratty.jpg)
First thing I did was to take everything in the interior out, seats, carpet, etc.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pulledoutoldcarpet2.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pulledoutoldcarpet.jpg)
I got lucky and didn't really find much rust under the old carpet and jute padding. I went ahead and put down some POR 15 (www.por15.com) on the bed floor and cab floor.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/POR15cabfloor.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/POR15a.jpg)
Before I went any further I went ahead and hooked up these cool speaker pods I got from Chris at http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=RD-3069&Category_Code=7387INT
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/driverskickpanelspeaker.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/passkickpanelspeaker.jpg)
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The old cassette deck was a relic.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Stereo.jpg)
Their stereo prices are way too high for me, but I'm glad I picked up an install kit from www.crutchfield.com because it made cutting the holes in the dash super easy!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/newstereocutout.jpg)
I kinda had a mess...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/wires.jpg)
I installed the new Kenwood CD Player I got from www.millionbuy.com.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/kenwood.jpg)
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I wanted to use something like Dynomat, but I wasn't going to pay over $400 for that particular product. So I went to The Home Depot and got a roll of this stuff. It was $19 for a huge roll -- 1 roll is 6" wide and 25 feet long. It also sticks to vertical surfaces (doors, behind dash, etc.).
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/roofstuff.jpg)
I started puttin' it down, and it worked great!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/foiltape.jpg)
I decided that I should cover all the seams so I picked up a roll of $4 aluminum tape. I went over every seam with it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/foiltape2.jpg)
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At this point it was time to move on to the new carpet I picked up for under $200 from http://www.auto-interior.com/chevy11.htm#BLAZER BTW, that price is for top-of-the line ACC carpet and it's the FULL SET (front & rear K5 carpet, rear wheel well carpet and the 2 side pillars where the seatbelts hook to the wall)
First I fit the molded carpet in.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/fittingcarpet.jpg)
Once I decided the fit was good, I went ahead and started boltin' it down.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/boltedcarpet.jpg)
I wanted some extra padding in the bed so I ordered a roll of jute padding from http://www.yourautotrim.com/jutecarpetpad.html The guy who runs the place is also a K5 owner, which was kinda cool!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/jute.jpg)
I glued the jute to the rear K5 carpet and it worked great! Also notice that I put sound deadener on either wheel well.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/bedcarpet.jpg)
I carpeted both of the wheel wells -- I used the strongest 3M spray glue to attach the carpet; however, the spray glue is crazy expensive!! if I had to do it again I'd get a quart of contact cement. If you ever do your own wheel wells, be careful -- you only get 1 chance, as you can see in the pictures, one of mine got a few "bubbles" in it. It's only really seen from one certain angle, but it still bugs me a little. They are getting better with time.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/backtofront.jpg)
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wow looks great..that turned out awesome!
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Bet your little helper is happy, too.
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Great job! For a first time welder cudos to you for making a valid attept. And I like the RED.
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Thanks y'all!
I've got to finish the side pillars in the bed then I'll post some more pictures of the finished product. I'm going to put some courtesy lights out of a boat in the pillar so there will be some light in the bed area with the top off. The lights will run off of the existing dome light wires and should turn on/off when the door is open/closed and also be controlled by the lightswitch.
The welding wasn't really to fix the problem, it was just to get by until I have the time to disassemble the rear of the truck. My welding job didn't look good, but it'll let me screw the sill plate into something. This project is dragging out -- I'm on my 2nd month of interior rebuild -- time to finish up! Maybe next year I'll get into replacing the entire tailpan and 2 of the floor sections. For now my $115 Harbor Freight MIG welder did the job.
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Wow, EXcellent !
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Just realized that I have never posted a picture of my truck... This is the truck that goes with the interior above. ;D
I found this one sitting in a barn -- had been sittin' there for 10 years and had about an inch of green slime on it! All of the hoses were rotten, dirt dobbers and mice and snakes called it home....and and and....well -- you can imagine. It cleaned up really good!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/ToplessII.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Topless-1.jpg)
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Man, that is a sharp looking Blazer all your work on the interior looks sweet. Good job!!
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love the red/white..awesome barn find!
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Great lookin truck! The interior is majorly improved! Door panels looks awesome! Can't believe how much the new carpet changed the whole inside! :o
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Nice snag, dude! One more saved from the ravages of time.
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:o Wow Now that's a K5 to be proud of 8) I'm sure that cute little Helper of yours can't wait till she can take it out to the Beach sometime ;D
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AWESOME!! ;D
Good job ;)
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I have an 83 C10 that you can come do for me! Looks awesome.
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Looks Good, hopefully you left the snakes and mice in the barn! What the heck is a dirt dobber?
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What the heck is a dirt dobber?
Imagine a black non-agressive wasp that builds mud nests in carburators.
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Thanks for the compliments everyone!
I got lucky on this truck find -- at some point it had been repainted so once I got the slime and mold off and waxed it 7 or 8 times, it actually looked fairly good! I only found a couple of rust spots, very unusual for the model. I think Chevy quit painting their engine blocks orange in the early 70s, since this one has an orange block, I assume it's been rebuilt. When I found the truck it wasn't running so I replaced the carburetor, starter/solenoid and changed the oil. I was able to get it going and actually drive it 2.5 hours home (with only one brake working! :o). Just about everything on it is new now.
Hopefully I'll have some finished pictures this weekend. Really the only thing left to do is build/carpet the rear pillars that I built out of Eucaboard.
Dirt Daubers
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=743
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Very nice K5!
Dirt dobbers eat spiders too, so they are nice to have around...lol
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great Job ;D ;D
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Thanks for sharing, Goatbeard! Great save on your K-5! I think you're being too critical on yourself about the wheel wells. They look great.
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Goatbeard,
Very nicely done!
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=6879.15
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nice work on that k5, hope you'll be around to give me pointers when i get to that point of my jimmy. can i ask where you got them kick panels from? i'd like to snag some myself if they arent an arm and a leg.
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Thanks! I'll be here!
You can get the kickpanels here from Chris, both the pods for speakers and the carpeted door kickpanels. If you don't see what you are looking for e-mail him. I don't think he has the carpeted ones like I got listed, but I believe he can get them. Here's the link to his store: http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/
If you are going to put new carpet in, you might want to get the carpeted kickpanels with your new carpet order so the color is the exact same. Each time they change their carpet spool (or bolt) the colors are a little different. They are around $50.
If you are talking about the "pod" speaker kickpanels, they were like $90 I think.
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It was time to move on to making new bed side panels. For this, I ordered some black speaker carpet/trunk liner from http://www.yourautotrim.com/black8.html I had to have a carpet that was ultra thin. The way the tailgate closes over that side panel on a K5 doesn't give you much room for a thick carpet. I went with black because I figured I'd never get a red that matched the red of the ACC carpet.
I went ahead and put some sound deadener behind where my 6x9 speakers would eventually go.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/nopillar.jpg)
I got a sheet of thin Eucaboard and used my existing ratty panels to trace as an outline. Then I cut the outline, trimmed it about a thousand times and made sure once the carpet was installed it was going to have the right clearance for the carpet to meet at the exact top of the bed.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/rearpillar.jpg)
I laid the panel down and sprayed it with 3M glue -- then slowly rolled the carpet out on top of it being sure to get all the wrinkles out.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/glueup.jpg)
Next I made sure to poke all the holes in the carpet! That's probably the most important thing NOT to forget to do. After I had my holes marked, I folded the extra carpet over, then glued it to the back. For good measure I put about 400 1/4" stainless steel staples in the back of either panel -- in case the glue fails the staples should hold it forever.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pillarinstall.jpg)
I fitted the panel in the bed and it fit perfectly!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pillarcarpet.jpg)
I also installed this boat light to use as a courtesy light. I wanted to have a little extra light in the bed side I'm gonna be running it most of the time without the top on it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/courtesylight.jpg)
Here's a close-up of the light.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/courtesylightii.jpg)
So I bolted everything down using #10 finishing washers and stainless screws.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/leftpanel.jpg)
Here's how the speaker turned out.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/smallpillar.jpg)
Looks a lot better than the old rotten one!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/PassSpeaker.jpg)
I got the small pillars installed.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/passsidespeaker.jpg)
Here's a better picture of the pillar.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/smallpillarwithscrews.jpg)
Full view.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/fullview.jpg)
And another.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/backview.jpg)
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Or is it that the ground, rather than the hot, is what gets disconnected and therefore breaking the circuit?
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Well, I went ahead and wired it up to the place I was talkin' about above. It works with the door -- open door, it comes on, shut door, it goes off!!! WOOHOO!
I love it when a plan comes together! ;D
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Wow, it looks fantastic!
That Blazer is awesome. Really sweet ride! :o
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yeah i was talking about the kick panels that have the speaker pods in them, not the ones on the door the ones on the floor.
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Those panels look great! I don't think you'll have any problem with the console ;D
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Yeah, you can get those pods from the store on here -- http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=RD-3069&Category_Code=7387INT $89 plus shipping. They worked great! Just scribe a circle and use a jigsaw to cut it out. To attach them I had to use longer self tapping screws, but once I got the screw to catch some metal, they tighten up good. The pass pod needed a tiny bit of trimming but the driver pod fit perfect They make the speakers sound great!
About the panel -- I think if I had it to do again I'd use a different glue. I read somewhere that the best glue to use on this type of speaker carpet was rubber cement, but I opted for the strongest 3M spray glue. I used about 350 stainless staples on the back of it, so if the glue doesn't hold up, maybe the staples will keep the carpet tight! The problem is that I've got around $80 just in the glue! UGH! I've been nickled and dimed to death on this project and if I have to spend anymore I'm gonna cry! My budget has gone from like $500 up to $1500! :o :'( LOL
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Hat tip 78 Chevyrado! http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=9540.0
If you have a liner for your console you can use it as a template. I didn't have one, so I just made mine out of pieces of cardboard cut to fit.
Plain ole dirty console.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Console.jpg)
I happened to have a box that was the perfect size.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Cardboard.jpg)
So I cut the box to the right length.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Cutbox.jpg)
Then made sure the height and angles were correct.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Cutbox3.jpg)
I took each individual piece and fit them in separately.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/fitcardboard.jpg)
One at a time.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/fitcardboard2.jpg)
Until they all fit perfectly.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/labelcardboard.jpg)
Then I made sure to mark them before (and after) I removed them so I'd remember where everything went.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/readytogluecardboard.jpg)
Then I glued my speaker/trunk carpet to each piece of cardboard. I put some staples at the bottom and top (out of sight) for good measure. Then reinstalled them one at a time into the console.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/fitcarpetedpieces.jpg)
When I had them all installed, I had a carpeted console!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/carpetedconsole2.jpg)
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That looks great!
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looks awesome! any reason you used black carpet instead of red for the sides?
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I couldn't have used a thick carpet like ACC-type because it had to fold over to be glued. I was afraid if I would have used the ACC-type stuff it would have stuck out too far and the tailgate wouldn't have closed. You've only got maybe 1/2" of thickness to work with.
The other reason was that since I wasn't using the same carpet as the floor, I would have ended up with a "generic" red that wouldn't have matched the carpet worth a dern.
The more I look at it the more I'm thinking that I might take off the door panels, repaint them totally black and go with a black dash. At least that'a way the black will continue through the front of the truck and it'll look "right". I was hoping that I could get away with just painting the door handles (and maybe the pull strap/bag) black, but I'm not sure that works -- what do you all think? I think if nothing else, the dash being black will help.
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That looks great man, nice truck, very nice.
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Very nice
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I got the door panel finished with new paint, carpet, buttons and a pull strap.
Here's the before picture.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/driverdoor.jpg)
Here's the after picture.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/finisheddoorpanel.jpg)
Then I got the console reinstalled.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/consoleinstalled2.jpg)
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I got the new door sill plates installed.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/seat_n_sill.jpg)
And put the passenger's seat back in.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pass_seat_installed2.jpg)
It was finally coming back together!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/pass_seat_installed.jpg)
I'll take some finished pictures when it warms up outside.
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I'll post this again just as some information in case anyone is thinking about doing their interior anytime in the future. This might be overly descriptive, but a lot of the little stuff is what added up to cost the most! It's stuff that you've got to have and should be a consideration when getting into this particular project. There's a few things I still need, but am close to done.
GoatBeard’s Interior Rebuild Parts Index
Electronics
Stereo & Speakers: ($150)
Stereo Installation Kit: ($26)
Antenna Extension: ($15)
Carpeting
Full K5 carpet kit by ACC: ($190)
Jute Padding & speaker carpet: ($60)
Carpeted door kickpanels: ($50)
K5 Parts
(Includes door straps, electric window/door lock buttons, overhead courtesy lamp cover, speaker pods, gas/brake/emergency brake pedals, front still plates, etc…) ($300)
Misc
6 4oz cans POR 15 ($57)
Duplicolor vinyl paint & adhesion promoter ($40)
Weatherstrip Adhesive ($3)
Soldering Iron/Solder ($10)
Jigsaw blades ($9)
Chip Brushes ($2)
Stainless Steel # 10 Finishing Washers & Stainless Steel #10 self-tapping screws ($17)
550 piece box of sheet metal screws ($6.00)
170 piece U-Clip & screw assortment box ($6.00)
200 piece “self-drilling” screw assortment box ($6.00)
Locktite Red threadlocker ($8.00)
Home Depot
4 cans 3M spray glue ($90)
1000 count pack ¼” stainless steel staples ($12)
3 rolls aluminum/tar “Quick Roof” ($60)
1 roll aluminum tape ($4)
4x8 Eukaboard ($14)
3 cans primer & 3 cans red/black paint ($20)
Roll Painter’s Tape ($6)
1/8” steel ($12)
Other
MIG welder & welding helmet – ($170)
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That's an amazing difference dude! Great job! ;D
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Thanks for the detailed list, I will be doing a frame off restor this spring before the mud drags and a major thing I need to do is waterproof my cab. It would be pointless to restore my cab ,put a nice sound system in it and then fill the cab full of water and mud. Let me know how well your method works out! Beautiful truck btw, my interior is almost the same except I have a bench seat and a single cab 8)
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your blazer is bad and i loved the post about your interior, im gonna use some of your methods and ideas in my 83 stepside, if thats of with you, 8)
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Just curious; Does the Quick Roof have any smell to it?
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I too may use some of your methods when I get to mine. I'll give them back when i',m done, promise! Awesome work! :)
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Just curious; Does the Quick Roof have any smell to it?
I've had a lot of people ask me if the Quick Roof has any smell to it. When I started this project I too was worried about that. I got a roll of aluminum tape and went over every joint -- I figured that just in case there was a smell, the tape wouldn't allow any stink to escape (besides that it made it look better, etc). But really, it didn't smell all that much to begin with and once it is installed it had absolutely NO smell to it.
Down here in the 100% humid-heat of the AL summer if it was gonna smell, it would. After last summer I am 100% confident when I say it has no smell to it -- even when A LOT of heat is applied!
I couldn't be any more happy with the way that stuff works. I've heard a lot of discussions about what sound deadener is better than what other sound deadener. All I know is I can't hear my engine at all and I haven't done my doors, yet. I don't see how much quieter you could make something -- the $250+ I saved bought me a lot of other parts I needed! ;D
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Pic with both seats installed.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Finished2.jpg)
I've got my new BLACK dash on the way (ordered from here BTW, awesome deal!). Now I can't decide if I need to paint my door panels and kick panels black, or not. Maybe I should just paint it like this? See pic below. I'm stumped. I could still paint the dash red, which is an option. I need y'alls help!!
(remember, I don't have the black dash installed, yet -- this is my attempt at a photoshop-type program.)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/try2.jpg)
The whole point in doing all that stuff black is so that it'll blend with the back panels I made. See below:
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/back_black_front_red2.jpg)
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I would go with the same color as your door panels/console, but....
BTW, it is being shipped this evening.
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You mean paint the dash to match the red?
Or do you mean just leave everything like it is (except maybe paint the handle red like it's supposed to be)?.
I think the whole rear panels being black is throwing everything off...like should I make the front match the back, or not? That is the question... :D
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I would paint the dash to match the console and paint he insert black. I think to much black will take away from your red...
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I don't disagree. It's kinda nice to be able to Paint Shop Pro (PSP) the panels before actually doing any work to 'em -- just to get some sort of idea of what it'll look like beforehand.
I guess the other option would be to repaint the entire door panel black and leave all the attached accessories (pull strap, carpeted insert, bag, carpet at bottom of door, and maybe the handle) red. I might try to do a PSP edit of the picture like that, then try to make a final decision.
Oh yeah, if I ever get enough money to redo my seats -- that's another place where I could easily do a black/red 2-tone (which, in the end may be what ties everything together).
I never would have thought things like color decisions would be the hardest part of this entire project...seriously.
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I guess the other option would be to repaint the entire door panel black and leave all the attached accessories (pull strap, carpeted insert, bag, carpet at bottom of door, and maybe the handle) red.
That is the way I would go,I'm planning the same thing in black & grey.
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Photoshop just the doorpanel black with the velour insert red, map pocket red and the lower panel red.
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If I knew what I was doing it might look better -- but this is the general idea. I'm still not sure about it.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Combined.jpg)
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Ok I think I got it. I looked at it and typed out a good idea but after I reread it, it didn't sound right so I erased it and asked my wife, who is great at decorating stuff. Something just didn't seem to flow right so we think that if your going with black keep it uniform from a point if the red is staying on the bottom of the doors then make your kick panel/speaker pods red also keep the red insert in the doors but loose the red pockets then are you going to do anything with all the headliner trim if so maybe do it black also. My wife said its to "busy" it would give you a headache, lol. Just some thought. You'll get it, its looking good.
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I think you are going to have to make the pocket black also, but you may need to make the lower portion of the dash black too. That way it appears that a wide black stripe is running through the center with red highlights.
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Trucks lookin great man, great work!
I think you are going to have to make the pocket black also, but you may need to make the lower portion of the dash black too. That way it appears that a wide black stripe is running through the center with red highlights.
That sounds like a great idea...
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(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/try5.jpg)
I think this one looks best so far. What y'all think? Kinda hard to make that bag look like a bag. ;) I also painted the kickpanel with speaker pod all red, like JRC suggested.
I'm not sure about doing the ceiling and other white trim pieces in black. I was going to do them in white. I really wish I could find some sort of off-white as I'm afraid that stark white will be overpowering.
Also, I didn't do the painted part under the dash, yet. With my poor photoshop-type skills, it'd probably look terrible -- like a big black blob.
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Since it went to a new page I combined the 2 -- one has a black kickpanel and one has a red kickpanel.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Combined2.jpg)
I think this is the last one I'm gonna do -- I don't want to ruin my thread with this and I'm sure you guys will get burned out, too! I do really appreciate your opinions though!
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Since it went to a new page I combined the 2 -- one has a black kickpanel and one has a red kickpanel.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/Combined2.jpg)
I think this is the last one I'm gonna do -- I don't want to ruin my thread with this and I'm sure you guys will get burned out, too! I do really appreciate your opinions though!
hey man id do the one on the left except id also do the pull strap black instead of red just my 2 cents 8)
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Left looks good. See I told ya it'll come together. And just think of it like this these trucks are so versatile if you don't like it change it til ya do. I need to get some pics of the inside of mine and show ya I did mine in charocol/blue. I like it.
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Left one with the red kicks.
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Cool! Thanks guys! I really appreciate your replies, suggestions, etc. I got the dash in the mail today -- waiting on some speakers and gear indicator parts, then it'll be time to rock!
Left looks good. See I told ya it'll come together. And just think of it like this these trucks are so versatile if you don't like it change it til ya do. I need to get some pics of the inside of mine and show ya I did mine in charocol/blue. I like it.
JR, that was the point in doin' the Photoshop-type stuff -- I don't want to do it but one time! LOL! I've already repainted the panels 1 time, so this'll be the 2nd time. Tell your wife Thanks for her input! You guys were a big help. :)
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Whatever you decide to go with, it looks great. Nice work.
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Started on my new dash install, panel repaint and amp install...
So far I've basically just made a huge mess (see pics).
The only thing that concerns me so far is whether my 3.5" dash speakers will fit without contacting the bottom of the dash. I'm gonna try to install 'em below the dash to gain a little extra room. There's not much room and I don't think you can tell if they are going to hit or not until you actually get the dash on. Y'all have any tips on that?
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/5.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/4.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/3.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/1.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/2.jpg)
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help me do that ill get some pics of mine and i need to know what i need to do make mine that sharp and not break the budget the wife gives me for my toys or toy now so whats the best way to get all the dash components off the actually metal bottom part of the dash and glove box and everything to make it nice again i also have free run of a junk yard and was looking to pull the dash out of an 87 for my 85 now to paint the top vinyly plastic what should i use
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good job that gives me hope
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The only thing that concerns me so far is whether my 3.5" dash speakers will fit without contacting the bottom of the dash. I'm gonna try to install 'em below the dash to gain a little extra room. There's not much room and I don't think you can tell if they are going to hit or not until you actually get the dash on. Y'all have any tips on that?
My 3.5's fit perfect witht he old dash... However I have a new dash to install and I hope I dont run into any problems....
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help me do that ill get some pics of mine and i need to know what i need to do make mine that sharp and not break the budget the wife gives me for my toys or toy now so whats the best way to get all the dash components off the actually metal bottom part of the dash and glove box and everything to make it nice again i also have free run of a junk yard and was looking to pull the dash out of an 87 for my 85 now to paint the top vinyly plastic what should i use
All that stuff is pretty simple to get off, just some screws. As for the plastic, I have used both Duplicolor's vinyl paint and SEM brand plastic paint. I like them both -- the most important thing is to clean everything REALLY well and use the bonding primer BEFORE you paint anything.
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So here's the deal... When I got the pass side 3.5" speaker out, it was just sitting there. I read where there is supposed to be a bracket to hold it in, but I didn't have one. Then, the added height of the 3.5" speaker because of the two-way thing on top of the cone hit the bottom of the dash.
Thanks once again to Chevyrado for the solution.
This is where both speakers are going to go -- the stock 4x10 cutout.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/35install1.jpg)
To get to it you have to take out the duct work. Which is okay because it obviously needs to be cleaned!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/35install8.jpg)
With all that out you will have access through this hole.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/35install7.jpg)
I have pics of how to make your own template, but to make this easy for anyone who is interested in going this route, I made a printable template.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/speakertemplate.jpg) Click for a larger image (http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/?action=view¤t=speakertemplate.jpg)
Use either a band saw or a jigsaw to cut your Plexiglas. I found the bandsaw worked best.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/35install12.jpg)
Cut your 3" holes for your 3.5" speakers with a hole saw.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/35install14.jpg)
Note: At this point I broke my first template so I changed the design a little to give more surface between the edge and the connection points. It was much easier to cut out the 2nd time, especially after I made the printable template.
Here's the end results. Note that these don't have the mounting bolts in them, yet. I was test-fitting when I grabbed the pics. It fits perfect! Thanks again for the idea and tips, Chevyrado!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/done.jpg)
Notice the speakers are mounted on the BOTTOM of the Plexiglas.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/done2.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Amp%20Install/done3.jpg)
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Schweet!
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Very innovative!
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Lookin' great man! Reminds me of my 81 2wd Jimmy. It was red and white too, but not full 2-tone. Just the upper 1/2 was white and lower was red. That was before I had it painted metallic black with a charcoal top. Red interior with the white headliner. I miss it.
That head unit kit, did it come with the textured plastic piece that trims out the area around the head unit?
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wow that whole unit to replace that ugly cone came out really good. maybe a moderator can save that template or something thats a great idea.
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Thanks guys!
SUX2BU99, Nope, I got that part around the stereo from Crutchfield. It worked perfectly. It'd a dual-use item -- works as a template to cut the metal dash and the plastic bezel for the new style stereos and also works as a cover. It'd also work good to hide any mistakes if someone did a hack-job on your bezel. That thing saved me A LOT of time. I had those holes cut in less than 10 minutes and didn't have to measure anything.
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Thought I'd show you guys what I've been doing.
The first time I did this I didn't paint the old kickpanels & the speaker pods were black.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/painting_red.jpg)
Think it looks better than having them 2 different colors...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/PanelPodOff.jpg)
I decided to put some deadener in there. Don't know if it'll matter, or not.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/roofingstuffforsound.jpg)
BEFORE
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build/driverskickpanelspeaker.jpg)
AFTER
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/FittingSpeakerPod2.jpg)
Speaker pod and kickpanel are there -- through all the crap...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/guts.jpg)
The pillars holding up the headliner were lookin' rough.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint4.jpg)
Decided to go black.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint1.jpg)
Same with the visors.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint2.jpg)
It worked well...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint10.jpg)
Found part of an antenna coax...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint6.jpg)
This headliner needed new paint.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint5.jpg)
Decided to go red.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint9.jpg)
I think it turned out good. The red headliner actually looks like leather up close. These pics seem a lot brighter than it really is.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint8.jpg)
The contrast between red and black looks pretty good. Before the black carpeted panels were kinda out of place. Now the black headliner pillars will connect the black carpeted panels I made in the bed to the new black dash. It will all f-l-o-w ;D
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/plasticpaint7.jpg)
A few implements of destruction.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/vinyldye2.jpg)
That's all for now. I have a few more headliner pieces to install then it's on to the dash, the instrument bezel then a bunch'a stereo/amp stuff.
BTW, since I used so much Duplicolor stuff on this project, I entered Duplicolor's Restoration Challenge. :D
http://www.restorationchallenge.com/ I saw an ad for it today and figured, why not!? ;D
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I've had a lot of people ask how to use that vinyl paint/dye so I thought I'd do a write-up on how I did it.
I took EXTREME pains in getting everything clean before I painted. My neighbor was making fun of me because it was taking me so long to prep everything before I actually painted it. But I've painted so much plastic in my truck that if it ever started peelin' it look like a snake sheddin' it's skin! :o
Here's the process I used.
First I took each panel and used this carpet stuff on them. I like this product because it gets 'em really clean and the fact that the head of the can has that plastic brush thing on it is awesome! Also the fact that you can be scrubbin' and squirt some more cleaner at the same time makes it easier. Anyway, this brush is perfect for plastic, it can get in the grooves and such on the panels (they aren't flat and the dirt gets stuck in the grooves).
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/OXYCLEAN.jpg)
Then I took a hose to them and washed them off really good. Sometimes I'd repeat this step a couple of times until I got all the dirt out of the grooves.
After they were dry I came back with a clean LINT FREE (That's important) rag and used this Grease and Wax Remover on 'em. You could probably also use a tack cloth.
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff143/MYCHEVYBLAZER/FOR%20SALE/truckbed_mono2.jpg?t=1240969324)
Once your parts are dry and you think you are ready to paint....you have to first put some adhesion promoter on them.
Duplicolor makes some Adhesion Promotor
(http://www.duplicolor.com/gallery/gallery_images/can_adhesion.jpg)
and Klean-Strip makes this Bulldog brand, but it's upwards of $20 a can at O'Rileys...
(http://www.wmbarr.com/Images/ProductImages/etpo123image.jpg)
(click to read about it: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=1&prodid=56)
After you put the adhesion promoter on your plastic, it HAS to be painted within' 10 minutes.
That's pretty much it. I tried to only have a couple of parts going at a time to prevent confusion. I always let my stuff dry for a couple of days before I used it.
It'd probably be a good idea to scuff up any really slick plastic a little before you attempted to use plastic paint on it.
I've had my door panels painted for about a year now and they don't have any peeling, nicks or scratches. The one cool thing about using black is that you can touch it up with a Sharpie marker. I will admit that I try to be careful with anything that's painted with plastic paint -- I don't know if I honestly trust it, or not. I can say that from my past experiences, I haven't had any trouble -- so far; but like I said, I have painted so much plastic at this point that if it peels I'm in real trouble. I guess we'll see what happens!
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Got the other headliner pieces up. I wouldn't want to do too much with that black -- it's way too shiny. If it were used for anything besides these headliner pillars I'd probably take a red scotchbrite pad to it and dull it down some.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash4.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash5.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash2.jpg)
I got all the stuff cleaned and transferred from the old dash to the new dash. I'm ready to install it, but I'm gonna have to get someone to help me. It's too unwieldy to handle by myself. I'm also afraid that I'm gonna break more of those plastic pins off -- those things were a terrible idea in the first place. Hope to have pics of the new black dash installed in a couple of days.
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That looks pretty good! :o
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I see all that paint and I need some paint, are you a vendor now? lol
I like the kick panel a lot better now, the black trim is coming out nicely. Keep it up man you're almost there! :)
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some really good ideas
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Well, here's an update. They are a little bright, turned out dark and I had to edit them so you could see them better.
I got the dash and instrument bezel in. The dash has one spot where it doesn't fit exactly right. I'm going to have to figure out how to pull it down a little. I'm not all that concerned about it though. I think I can just put a small screw inside the smaller circle I drew that'll hold it where it's supposed to be. I took it for a drive yesterday and it looks like all the dash stuff is working now EXCEPT my gas gauge. I must have bumped it or loosened it somehow when I was fooling around in there. Hopefully I'll be able to reach my arm behind the dash and get it to connect easily.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash8-1.jpg)
You can see it needs to be pushed down about 2".
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/highcorner.jpg)
I needed to run some heavier gauge speaker wire (from 20 to 16) from my 6x9's to my amp. Since I had half the screws out of the panel I decided to go ahead and take the whole thing off...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/rearpanel.jpg)
I took it off to add pretty a good sized eye screw. This way I'll have a tie-down point on either side. It was a lot of work to add those screws -- I hope they get used at some point...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/Eye_Screw.jpg)
I also took a couple of pictures of the back of the panels -- forgot to do that when I first built them. Hopefully if my glue ever fails the 400 stainless staples (per panel) will hold the carpet on. ;D
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/staples3.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/staples2.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/staples.jpg)
I even cleaned and painted the ashtray. ::)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/ashtray.jpg)
(Note: The rear window button was faded really bad so I painted the button -- not perfect, but it looks better than it did! I might come back and hit the raised lettering with whiteout....)
I also got the amp installed and it sounds okay. Since the top is off the K5 the sound goes everywhere -- not like having music playing inside the cab of a truck, that's for sure! I hate to even think this but I believe I'm going to have to get an 8" subwoofer to make the stereo sound right -- it's just missing the lows. I might cop out and get a powered sub. At least I got an amp that'll work right if I go that route -- and I added some extra wire in case I decide to upgrade again. On the other hand those dash speakers sound amazing! I believe it is far superior to have them in the center like that rather than on either side of the dash. As it stands, this stereo is a high and mid-range monster. It's like going back to the 80s all over again! ;D
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/amp2.jpg)
(I was wondering where that pack of cigarettes went!)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/amp.jpg)
So I'm done with it for now. Well except that I've decided that I'm going to go ahead and get my seats professionally recovered. I take it this Thursday and am only doing the front 2 seats for now. I'm gonna do them black and might add some red accents -- I have to see some examples of what he can do before I decide. I really like the old school "pillow look" (not sure what it's called) where you have diamond patterns with buttons -- it probably costs too much, but I'm gonna check it anyway. I wasn't going to do this until later (and had planned on trying to do it myself) but my driver's seat is bent and the old cover has to come off so it can be welded back straight (if you look at the amp picture above you will see a 3.5" metal sleeve holding the back of the seat up -- the sleeve is not supposed to be there, but that's what's holding my seat straight at the moment). Since the old upholstery has to come off in order to fix the seat itself, I might as well get them covered now so I can drive it around some before I start the body work. And besides, this way the interior will be 100% FINISHED and I won't have to take the seats back out at some point and create another mess.
Finished (for the 2nd time) minus new seats & eventually a roll bar & maybe an 8" sub...and and and... ;)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash10.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/dash12.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/frombackclean.jpg)
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Sure looks good. You did an awesome job.
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When you replaced your dash did you put new bulbs in?
If so would you happen to have the part numbers? and how well are did they light up your dash?
Thanks!
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Sam,
Can you take a pic closer to the dash where it is up and one with the bezel off?
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Chris, really I don't think it's anything necessarially bad about the dashpad. In my opinion it's just a bad design from GM. There is no attachment point at the top of the dash for the bezel/dash pad screw.
If the dash pad would have had a threaded clip rather than a washer-type (no threads) clip that may have helped. Or maybe if the dash were about 1/4" larger in that right corner area. The way it fits it's extremely tight. In most situations this would be very good. But with nothing to hook to it just put extra pressure on the screw that was basically being held by nothing.
Since I did my dash I've seen a couple of other dashes that were the same after they installed new pads.
I think that one small well-placed screw (or glue, or probably even Velcro) will fix it. I'm really not all that worried about it -- but here are some pictures to try and better explain what is happening. I didn't want to take everything back off so I dug around and was able to zoom in on some other pictures I had -- they could be better, but they are all I have.
I hope you believe me when I say that it's no big deal.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/Example.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/example2.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/Example3.jpg)
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When you replaced your dash did you put new bulbs in?
If so would you happen to have the part numbers? and how well are did they light up your dash?
Thanks!
Stantonss,
I had planned on putting new bulbs in simply because I had two bulbs that weren't working. But after I got to the bulbs I was able to play with them a little and get them both to work again.
I do have this information:
http://chevyk5blazer.com/wb/index.php?topic=868.0
You should be able to put your make/model in to find any number you need.
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I believe you, I would just like to know why yours is doing that. It has to be hitting something to not come down to the crease. My factory dash doesn't come all the way down, but it is closer.
Are you for sure hitting the other 2 supports?
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When you replaced your dash did you put new bulbs in?
If so would you happen to have the part numbers? and how well are did they light up your dash?
Thanks!
Stantonss,
I had planned on putting new bulbs in simply because I had two bulbs that weren't working. But after I got to the bulbs I was able to play with them a little and get them both to work again.
I do have this information:
http://chevyk5blazer.com/wb/index.php?topic=868.0
You should be able to put your make/model in to find any number you need.
Thanks man! Big help
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It looks like your dash pad is not seated in the clips on the frame.
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The only reason I am pretty sure that it is seated is because I hooked it up the first time and it was not seated -- there was about a 3" gap between the dash pad and the bezel itself (it was really screwed up bad!).
So the 2nd time I was able to get someone to help me install it (hard to handle by yourself). On the passenger's side it was hard to tell if it clipped or not because you couldn't actually see what was happening. You kinda had to feel it. With it installed you can actually look under the dash with a flashlight and see whether or not it is hooked. On the driver's side you can actually see it clip in and slide back since that area is more open in comparison to the passenger's side...
I will double-check the clip though. I hope you are right.
Do you guys remember how the gas gauge hooks into the back of the dash? I must have somehow knocked the connection loose when I reinstalled the dash. The first day I drove it after getting it back together it registered totally empty, even after I added $15 of gas. Today I added another $25 because I had to drive it about an hour.5 away (didn't want to run out). Today it decided to move a little, but it's still below 1/4 of a tank with $35 worth of gas. It HAS to have a lot more than that. Y'all have any suggestions? Wiggle wires and such behind dash?
Thanks!
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Well, I dropped the truck off today at the upholstery shop. He's doing the front buckets for me. He said he thought that truck had the wrong frame on the driver's side -- anyway, he's going to fix that. I'm going to put black vinyl in it with some red stitching. I hope the red stitching isn't dancing too close to being totally goofy... We will see in a couple of weeks.
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Make him call you if he thinks it's goofy.
I would think it would be too much contrast. Seam stitches aren't supposed to stand out unless you really want to call attention to them, and they had better be very well done if you do.
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Pull the clips and see how it sits.
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I had originally thought about doing some red piping, but after looking at some examples online I think that would have been terrible. I'm tempted to call him and see what kind of price difference there is between leather and vinyl! I asked him not to stitch the entire seat with red stitches, only enough of it to look good and not go overboard (basically where your butt and back hit will have red stitching). I'm gonna call him again in a minute and just tell him to make it look "right". lol
Chris, I compared it to the old dash pad but just a side by side comparison. What I noticed is that the original dash pad looks like it's got a slight curve to it in the instrument bezel area. The left side of the old one definitely sits about 1" lower than the rest of the dash pad. The other thing was that the old dash is far more rigid than the new one so it's curve in that area doesn't have any "spring" to it. In contrast, the new dash pad is more "springy", which in my opinion allows that one edge to pull back up just a hair. I'm thinking that I could literally bend the edge down and it'd stay there, but I'll have to take it back off to do that. With it on I can't bend it, it's got too much play for the bend to take. At this point, since everything is finally back together, it's debatable whether I have any will left to redo it another time. :D The bezel does need a new sticker and I've got to fix that gas gauge that's quit on me -- so I'll wait and see what is required to fix that stuff before I rig the dash. It may be that I'll have to take everything back apart anyway... At least I have some idea of how to do it now, so maybe it'll go fast! ;)
Thanks for your help and suggestions!
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The aftermarket dash like you have is "springier" as it doesn't have a complete metal shell frame, only a partial.
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When I get it back from upholstery I'll take another look at it. Either way, the dash looks great! I'm happy with it and I guess that's all that matters! Thanks!
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The whole thing looks good. Awsome job i'd like to use some of your ideas for my truck. Like the red and black. 8)
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Thank you! I had a lot of fun doing the interior -- it was my first to totally redo. The hardest part was actually the decisions on what to do with all that red (every single stinkin' piece was red...ugh!) -- I think the red/black combo worked out well, too. I'm sure I over thought it times infinity, but the end result is the pay off. I should be getting the truck back from upholstery this week with the new black seats with dark red stitching. I'm nervous about it, but hopefully it'll look "right".
I'll get more pics when I get it back. Thanks again!
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I finally got the K5 back from the upholstery shop. I couldn't be more happy with how the seats turned out!
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/new_seats8.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/new_seats6.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/new_seats2.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/new_seats.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/IMG_0145.jpg)
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Few more pics out in the sun.
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/frombacknewseats.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/seatout.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/seatout3.jpg)
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/GoatBeardsK5/Interior%20Build%20Part%20II/seatout2.jpg)
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that looks fantastic!!!
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I hate red interiors!
But yours looks awesome. Nice work.
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That looks AWESOME man! you should be real proud of that!
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The interior looks great Bud. I might be picking me up a Blazer in the next month. I will definitely have to call on you for some pointers.
Love everything about yours.
Good job.
shame you dont live closer to me!
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whell man good attion to detail grate job .........what is your next big project? i just spent like 2 hours reading this and im amazed !!
and thanks for all the tips one day ill do mine , im working on the drive train and out side 4 now
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I have eaten my words on the my last stitch comment because that looks great! Glad you didn't listen to me.
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Well, I did this job totally backwards. I assume the interior is usually the LAST thing people do when restoring a vehicle. For whatever reason, it was the FIRST thing I did. I didn't really intend to redo the entire interior, but after I painted that first door panel and saw the results, I just couldn't stop -- so be warned! It could happen to you, too! :)
It took me about a year an 1/2 partly because of time and mostly because of money. You guys have been a huge help -- without your input I would have given up long ago. If anyone needs any help or has any questions, I'll be glad to help if I can. I'd definitely not a pro at this sorta stuff, but it's fresh on my mind. I also have about 5000 pictures that I took throughout the process. So if someone needs a visual of how something on the interior goes together, I might have a picture that'll help. Just ask.
Thanks again!
Sam
I still have to paint the truck and need valve guide seals in the engine. After that I'm gonna call it done.