73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: Skunksmash on October 13, 2008, 07:29:01 pm
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Maybe i am not looking at the pictures right, but it is just the outer shell of the door, correct? I am asking cause like many of us i need new ones. The old ones are just going to require to much repair and bondo and all that mess. It would be really nice to just have new ones on there. Well my question is: How do you separate the old ones from the inner part that needs to be re-used? It looks to me like it is welded on there. This would seem to be a big pain to get the old ones off, then install the new ones. Please correct me if i am wrong here. I have almost no experience in body work, so if i have this done i am looking at paying the body shop to do it. Most likely when i have the truck painted. So what do you think is the best choice for someone like me? Have the new skins put on, or have the old ones repaired? The new ones are cheap enough for me to justify buying them, i just wonder if it would actually end up being cheaper to fix the old ones.
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you have to grind the edge down and seperate the 2 halves and then remove the spotwelds from the lip. Then clamp them over and "spot" weld them back on.
Personally, how bad is your current doors? You only need to repair the "bad area"
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Just buy these and remove your window, door lock, handles etc. and you are done. Basically.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=7&Category_Code=7T (http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=7&Category_Code=7T)
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Can anyone post a pic of the backside of them?
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Post a pic of the backside of what?
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A door shell is a complete door. Inner shell frame, and skin. Minus the windows, regulators, rubbers, door handles, lock etc.
A door skin is just the out side sheet metal. You need to grind the whole edge all the way around the perimeter of the door, remove the skin. Then remove the hem. ( Hem is the part of the skin that folds around the door frame ) Then lay the new skin onto the door inner shell frame, fold the hem over and spot weld it in place.
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Thanks, that clears it up for me. So for my case, i would need to be looking for a shell, not a skin. Transferring parts, i can do. All the grinding and welding; i would be afraid i would mess it all up and i really don't know how to weld, or own a welder for that matter.
@ Captchaos, i was asking to see the back side of the door shells that you sell. The pics you have of them only shows the outside part.
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He sells the door skins and the complete door shells that would require you taking all your internal pieces from your current doors and transfer them to the new door shells.Remember this if your truck is a 73-76 model you cant put your door panels onto 77-91 doors cause the forming of the doors where the door panels are different on the 2 style years.
thanks
pat
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The door shells on the inside look like every other truck of that model made.
This is what a 73-76 door looks like on the inside:
(http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/73-76door.jpg)
This is a 77-91:
(http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/77-91door.jpg)
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Thanks guys, this answers all my questions. But, i still have one left. How hard do you think it will be to install Dynamat (or similar sound deadenind product) inside the door shell? One memeber here told me that one of the best places to put dynamat is on the inside of the outer door skin. Would this be possible if i ordered a whole shell, and not a skin? Probly not, huh.
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How hard do you think it will be to install Dynamat (or similar sound deadenind product) inside the door shell? One memeber here told me that one of the best places to put dynamat is on the inside of the outer door skin. Would this be possible if i ordered a whole shell, and not a skin? Probly not, huh.
Just reach in there and stick it on. No biggie.
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Looks like pretty limited arm space, though.
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lol, that's nothin! They give you more arm space in there than about 85% of the other doors out there. I have the scars to prove it! You can definitely do it. I would rather line it behind the door panel myself though.
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I've read you can get rid of most the resonance when covering only 25% of the panel
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lol, that's nothin! They give you more arm space in there than about 85% of the other doors out there. I have the scars to prove it! You can definitely do it. I would rather line it behind the door panel myself though.
Any particular reason? Maybe i'll do both
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Skunk, Evercoat makes nice tar-like sheet sound deadening that works well. They are about an 1/8" thick x about 16" square. They will bend slightly for ribs & grooves. I put Three pieces in the doors, one (cut down) in the area between the mirror & the door handle & Two side by side in the center, just below the bodyline. This makes the doors "feel" much more solid, taking out the tinny vibration. I put them in the door, down through the window hole before the window, weatherstrips, ect. go in, you can reach through the big hole on the inside to push them down. A yardstick or similar item can help also. Lorne
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Just so you know, Lorne is referring to the Q-pads (http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=50). They are very similar to what OEMs use.
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Is that the non-sticky stuff? Dynamat has that sticky black stuff.
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Skunk, Those ones are sticky, just peel of the plastic & stick.
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This is what I used and it's WAY cheaper than Dynomat. You can get it at Home Depot and I believe it was $30 per roll. If you go this route, get some foil tape and put it over the joints.
(http://www.chevyk5blazer.com/gallery2/g2data451911/albums/Goatbeard/Interior/roofstuff.jpg)