73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Topic started by: nucknoel89 on October 27, 2008, 02:06:14 pm
-
A few questions about the electrical side of shaved doors. I already have the solenoids and cable installed, and I've got a fair bit of the wiring put together. However, I'm still wondering, where do I plug the positive ends in so I get a constant power source? I see the accesory slots on the fuse panel but I'm pretty sure they only work when the key is turned. Also, what about the emergency switch? How do I fit that in to the circuit?
-
You need a 12V source not a switched source. For example if you have a clock or a radio with clock it will have constant power. There is a power slot on the fuse ciruit though.
-
You need a 12V source not a switched source. For example if you have a clock or a radio with clock it will have constant power. There is a power slot on the fuse ciruit though.
Do you have a picture?
-
Picture of?
-
Picture of?
Oops, sorry, picture of the power slot on the fuse circuit, or can you describe where approximately it is?
-
It says BAT and is constant power already circuit protected.
-
It says BAT and is constant power already circuit protected.
Ah sweet, I was saw that but wasn't sure, thanks! Now anyone know about the backup buttons?
-
What kit do you have? Didn't it come with diagrams or instructions? I just leave one vent window unlocked in case the poppers don't work.
-
What kit do you have? Didn't it come with diagrams or instructions? I just leave one vent window unlocked in case the poppers don't work.
The kit I got came from the seller hotrodaccessory on eBay. The auction link no longer works and the ones he's selling now aren't exactly the same, and it did have instructions, but I didn't see anything that showed me where the backup switches fit into the circuit. And I still have the handles and locks on for now. I'm not removing anything till I'm sure it all works :)
Also, another question. I plugged into the BAT slot, pressed the button on the remote, and I heard the solenoid activate! Unfortunatley, it just worked the one time, after that nothing happened when I pushed the button. Is there some fuse I could have blown? There is a seperate fuse on the wire from the fuse box to the reciever, but that fuse appears fine...
-
There should be a fuse inline with the switch.
As for backup, if the solenoid goes bad, you are out of luck, you won't be able to get into the truck.
If you are wanting a backup for a hard wired button, I don't see the point. Now if you had remote solenoids and wanted a hard line backup I could see that.
-
Like this kit? Who is the manufacturer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/60LB-SHAVED-DOOR-HANDLE-KIT-WITH-AUTOLOC-DOOR-POPPERS_W0QQitemZ260303699057QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33642QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
-
Like this kit? Who is the manufacturer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/60LB-SHAVED-DOOR-HANDLE-KIT-WITH-AUTOLOC-DOOR-POPPERS_W0QQitemZ260303699057QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33642QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Yeah, very similar, the reciever is slightly different. The solenoids are Autoloc, 50 lbs I believe.
-
There should be a fuse inline with the switch.
As for backup, if the solenoid goes bad, you are out of luck, you won't be able to get into the truck.
If you are wanting a backup for a hard wired button, I don't see the point. Now if you had remote solenoids and wanted a hard line backup I could see that.
All I know is the kit came with 2 little black and red buttons and I dunno what else they're for.
EDIT: Found the problem fuse. It controls at least the horn, the dome light, and the "BAT" slot. Removed the popped 20 fuse and put in a 25 and it seems to work for now...