73-87chevytrucks.com
General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: frogman68 on November 16, 2008, 06:47:30 pm
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This not on a vehicle its on a lawn tractor (Cub Cadet Lt 1050) with the great wisdom here I am hoping for a answer before I replace the crank.
Pulley is on the crank according to the directions it should just slide off well it didnt. I PB Blaster'd it let it sit like a hour tapped it lightly with a hammer still nothing. But a 3 in gear puller on it , it just crushed the pulley. Not much room to work on it so I pulled the engine . Looked closely at it and the woodruff key was a integral part of the pulley. Next I heated a little (MAPP Gas) tapped it again it has not moved at all so I heated till it was a little red tapped it nothing but the gear puller on it again and it crushed it again. thinking it was a problem with the woodruff key I cut it out with a cut off wheel heated it again and tried the gear puller again it just crushed it so there is nothing to grab now. I rigged up some arbor plates since I couldnt get a grip with the press (20 ton) still wont budge. I am about to take the oxy acetylene torch to it and just replace the crank. This tractor has less than 100 hours on it and the stupid drive belt snapped. The PTO clutch sits right below this and that came off like it was suppose to
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I wish I could be more help since I work on Cub Cadets all the time. If you are careful with the torch and do it a little at a time letting it cool down in between, you should be able to cut the pulley away from the crank without hurting the crank. The trick is to not let the heat transfer to the crankshaft.
Here is a great place to ask newer Cub Cadet questions;
http://ihregistry.com/forum/messages/3068/3068.html?1226946190
I collect and restore the older models, and I used to work at a dealership.
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I wish I could be more help since I work on Cub Cadets all the time. If you are careful with the torch and do it a little at a time letting it cool down in between, you should be able to cut the pulley away from the crank without hurting the crank. The trick is to not let the heat transfer to the crankshaft.
Here is a great place to ask newer Cub Cadet questions;
http://ihregistry.com/forum/messages/3068/3068.html?1226946190
I collect and restore the older models, and I used to work at a dealership.
Thanks not sure how to keep the crank cool while cutting, it (the pulley) goes into the oil seal at the "oil pan" (not sure if thats what its called since its not a pan, might try the Mapp and oxygen with a cold chisel :) I am resigned to the fact that I will have to replace the crank so if I dont I will be a very happy camper.
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I"ll ask a simple question- I suppose you've checked- could there be a set screw installed thru the pulley hub or even thru the belt groove that sets into the crank surface?
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I"ll ask a simple question- I suppose you've checked- could there be a set screw installed thru the pulley hub or even thru the belt groove that sets into the crank surface?
Boy won't he be pissed if there is.
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I"ll ask a simple question- I suppose you've checked- could there be a set screw installed thru the pulley hub or even thru the belt groove that sets into the crank surface?
Boy won't he be pissed if there is.
I did check after I pulled the engine. You cant really see in the pulley real well while it is in since the frame goes around it to prevent the belt coming off. But there is no set screw and I cut the woodruff key off.
I wouldnt of been mad if there was I would gladly replace the pulley if that was it :)
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sounds like you did all the possible steps. hard to believe it's that seized with only a 100 hours on it. if it were me at this point, i'd die grind most of the way off and then use a chisel to break it as you already stated.
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why do you have to remove the pulley to change the belt?
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/manuals.jsp
The illustration shows a bolt.
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why do you have to remove the pulley to change the belt?
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/manuals.jsp
The belt goes on the top pulley in a hole in the belly plate the belly plate has fingers on it so you have to (according to the manual :) ) slide the pulley down the manual has a good pic I am trying to copy it now :)
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ITS OFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF
I earned my official red neck title today words can not describe how I did it I will post pics once I get some batteries but in short I took some 1/2 bar stock welded some angle iron to it then welded that to what was left of the pulley . Once I figured (again red neck title) out how to get it in the press with my contraption it came off like it wasnt pressed there . Still can not believe how tight it was on there it is crazy hopefully the new one goes on easier :) . Next question is easier whats a good anti seize to but on the crank?
Thank you all for your help pics will be up later
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You can use antisieze or moly grease. Too bad you had to destroy the old one getting it off.
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(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1084.jpg)
Lining it up to be sure it is straight and level so it wouldnt go crooked once in the press and some metal to protect the crank
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1085.jpg)
all welded up
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1086.jpg)
In the press ratchet strap was too short had to find a longer one just for saftey
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1087.jpg)
Finally off.
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You can use antisieze or moly grease. Too bad you had to destroy the old one getting it off.
Yes but it was destroyed before I even took the engine out really dont have much room in there with those "fingers" (belt keeper) . Personally I dont see a way it would of come off in the tractor. I also think the metal for the pulley part wasnt strong enough to hold with a gear puller on it.
Thanks again
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wow. what a adventure. glad to see you succeeded!
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Local autoparts store will have anti seize. Permatex, Fel-Pro, Blackjack are all good.