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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => LT/LS Swaps => Topic started by: ehjorten on November 29, 2016, 03:54:14 PM

Title: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on November 29, 2016, 03:54:14 PM
Picked-up a low mileage 6.0L LS out of a 2004 Yukon Denali XL2500 today! Slightly different route now. Hope I will be satisfied. I don't think I'll be making 410 lb-ft of torque at 1,600 RPM anymore! I'd really like to put some L92 heads and an LS3 intake manifold on it, but the cost of those things along with a new camshaft really isn't in the cards right now.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=19098.msg290063#80
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on December 05, 2016, 11:14:39 PM
I would run the factory Truck intake.  That should be a LQ4 which makes 300hp and 370lb/ft.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on December 07, 2016, 10:41:35 AM
For those that don't know...the 1991 V3500 came from the factory (only year for the 3rd Generation trucks) with a 4L80e and a NP205 transfer case with VSS.


My 4L80e does not have the top center bellhousing bolt that was added in the LS block and my 2004 LS block does not have the upper, passenger's side bolt hole!  It has the pad that looks like there should be a drilled and tapped hole though.

My question is...can I just drill and tap that hole in the back of the engine block to get my missing transmission mount back?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on December 08, 2016, 07:43:48 PM
Don't waste your time.  My truck isn't running that bolt...

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Irish_Alley on December 08, 2016, 10:45:03 PM
so how many bolts does yours have capt? 5? ive seen some run just 4 on the carb motors
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on December 09, 2016, 09:57:45 AM
Consensus seems to be that you don't need that 6th bolt...just leave it out.  I did find out that if you drill that pad out you will hit one of the head bolt holes!  I heard from a guy that said he drilled his out about 18 mm deep and tapped it and got about 13 mm of thread.  In an iron block that would be enough, but in an aluminum block it would not!

I contemplated a SFI bellhousing, but that involves cutting off your bellhousing and the system costs about $500. http://www.ckperformance.com/View/4L80E-SFI-BELLHOUSING-ADAPTER-PACKAGE (http://www.ckperformance.com/View/4L80E-SFI-BELLHOUSING-ADAPTER-PACKAGE)

I guess for now, I will just use 5 bolts and see what happens.  If I run into problems then I can go the Ultra Bell route.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on December 10, 2016, 07:23:37 PM
Mine has 5 bolts in it.  2002 6.0, 1993 4l80E, 31,000 miles.

Don't drill the 6.0 block...

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on December 12, 2016, 07:32:10 AM
Got my Off Road Design's Crossmember mocked-in!  You have to drill-out one rivet hole and drill a couple of new holes in the bottom web of the frame to mount it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZssPnuJIJBYCc0v6w_0fD4XsPfZV5KRhrp8zlzhrSGokWIp5CuIpG6QSNPc3MHz-U53Lz_JhVQnMZvERRxhtbLRJHih-4vyiRKvoB-bAhMN_pUw9grPYh_Eh-pNNFRGxAMy_NB-KJA2wv0xPSEFr8IddStpLJTSATSuQNyo7RKK9wO5JyUj0-aI-HL55NnV0PIdPWcwjH2Iz56mXQe4KRARSSJdKdiCxKs85NNAgYAlLTz2TqI4qHN_V5gQiDYd5qvhg8tXGCLAtmDT-wSiVWwsGv9dTlRGMDlJWEjSEsC21X7bGE8PcXcjIkwWcS6dd5duaB1nfyWWTj2K58rGKJp345XrU9XAe83DvyiUQ8SeZUhIIfyvNuUpkALWyHWnlfbjBaFFRfYjTKsz_J57uwLYs0xJ-GLc0bbx5cZj3OePj61zUgoOfEzfdZgZYxUtDK5XOVCKgBbG-sh4mkHTcNlvljJNvjdTjUKSEcaTBWFAB0NeJYmAYOvp33Ynk3vH7ve1cyFq87eUQhFuugTlZCASKYd7reE4Qw8z17U9qPMT5JEi9ZF6Ugpw6j8SSGTSE2BZVIVNcU4U0hjuUBH8qxMggaJk0BMdbXSivARlnYUgVENzif-bW=w1560-h878-no)

I drilled and tapped a hole to attach the clamp for the front differential breather.  It was clamped to the old stock crossmember.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q8Kwo30I7NBeGrvChs5SmOQgBdpR-tyMPjh9liNXRjBBhBRPRNLBfD4BhgoivrmfqO6sPt9zkxS7-OV3F-Gx70FULN2z-plSvtAY5L4QSyTqGgeHZg_NxJHoJ_2y-AZsBSoW_JUlxgmwgmrgQ3_EOKYaY9_9dnYt2ryj3XYtYyXzsc75GcKqDSPG0vRgCDUe6ptB7oKC5K1a9AhAP6spgxU2OL1eUqs1x_7sO_P9XWs-41qpyUq5UPCZm8CbCBShue8FMPYeTQSkiasS6DXMMgZ1A-kMouH22sDTjf7t85dfy6qFE135fQOFfDe19iUnVSY5jrsdElbAxzvQdMrbvfbqpNjo0cNBgPBnbHfvFz5t66i3t2FbnoeyGQoRppGLRTyxIcg-G5jgC5m8B2DTtHKqRI1tHrUG6IsLL8EQr9kZJDdT_HVRtGBTxYSzFz1Z1kRPWWy3XGo9241hG5IoqfifQAthvmxWZcjVvHESFdrAv4s_qcgr8_19dxf3cX1JTsUacUoItgVdCmpOv1dkkQ1IOPthU7nTCYNCAQuGY6wKCA-HDR-h_OF44C5czTM9ImSOp6OLmX70mFh8cqq0M-yX_i8Sfs3ysh5LbBxQPc11h4jxOg1v=w1560-h878-no)

I also drilled and tapped a hole for the clamp that goes to the hardline.  It was also bolted to the old stock crossmember.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nbxHCfvTIvLTp2ww7SRPMc6D1PhAQN9FD9AjJ_JDsO1UIiVpAWqWqWnWtP60RJjCKWVposjCvhOdn6L_r0yaG62FDRT3bOfzv4Fxa3PBeUv3SUQnzDpbjsvFHctK7WwFqoInklETwIsKh3yUkyJhVS2KKdjSPv7B_DQ1MXy-kED-8hfjVUx9TaprMGqSFEx3Rz0ORf-8F8hl9aN5pawj6Ha41L3mL8M9Oqp678NkB_Q2f-3XbTDhusZ-m6AX6Dn2yb7loO9xs5V6ERn0FgQIk5NIpj1y0MGPTM_jxIFf_NjcX2Pf-sbDXkzvnu32JMAAgpsVX5HRe5aUg6rFJRuLAjAqv9iiccDQZhlOnT9PBG8r-qw8n3h_2ajhRo2tbX8Twk67Ai_RhzE_d5_018T2bKr7ZtwJ6m_GBNdczcEcDz7I3XqeJxs9jSheVYJWUGlPto_egQinsxmlf1Mch4xXo51UhhjD1FvmuSx4UjzpA_LFqmnIs23kh2Copg7m1sop0DhPOXz75S9EpFdcm7Kh576VF9XcCgpNZr9rpEkR-tQQv3VnPbE3EB9XR7JsAzDCOpB-vo-9RTce3kLxgXsMtHkmRbWptQbuxEd_13KM8VMAr9J94fJw=w1560-h878-no)

Then I pulled it all out and the engine crossmember, frame side motor mounts and the transfer-case crossmember are going to the powdercoater for a fresh coat of semi-flat black.
Title: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on December 22, 2016, 12:40:28 PM
Got my Off Road Design's Crossmember mocked-in!  You have to drill-out one rivet hole and drill a couple of new holes in the bottom web of the frame to mount it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZssPnuJIJBYCc0v6w_0fD4XsPfZV5KRhrp8zlzhrSGokWIp5CuIpG6QSNPc3MHz-U53Lz_JhVQnMZvERRxhtbLRJHih-4vyiRKvoB-bAhMN_pUw9grPYh_Eh-pNNFRGxAMy_NB-KJA2wv0xPSEFr8IddStpLJTSATSuQNyo7RKK9wO5JyUj0-aI-HL55NnV0PIdPWcwjH2Iz56mXQe4KRARSSJdKdiCxKs85NNAgYAlLTz2TqI4qHN_V5gQiDYd5qvhg8tXGCLAtmDT-wSiVWwsGv9dTlRGMDlJWEjSEsC21X7bGE8PcXcjIkwWcS6dd5duaB1nfyWWTj2K58rGKJp345XrU9XAe83DvyiUQ8SeZUhIIfyvNuUpkALWyHWnlfbjBaFFRfYjTKsz_J57uwLYs0xJ-GLc0bbx5cZj3OePj61zUgoOfEzfdZgZYxUtDK5XOVCKgBbG-sh4mkHTcNlvljJNvjdTjUKSEcaTBWFAB0NeJYmAYOvp33Ynk3vH7ve1cyFq87eUQhFuugTlZCASKYd7reE4Qw8z17U9qPMT5JEi9ZF6Ugpw6j8SSGTSE2BZVIVNcU4U0hjuUBH8qxMggaJk0BMdbXSivARlnYUgVENzif-bW=w1560-h878-no)

I drilled and tapped a hole to attach the clamp for the front differential breather.  It was clamped to the old stock crossmember.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q8Kwo30I7NBeGrvChs5SmOQgBdpR-tyMPjh9liNXRjBBhBRPRNLBfD4BhgoivrmfqO6sPt9zkxS7-OV3F-Gx70FULN2z-plSvtAY5L4QSyTqGgeHZg_NxJHoJ_2y-AZsBSoW_JUlxgmwgmrgQ3_EOKYaY9_9dnYt2ryj3XYtYyXzsc75GcKqDSPG0vRgCDUe6ptB7oKC5K1a9AhAP6spgxU2OL1eUqs1x_7sO_P9XWs-41qpyUq5UPCZm8CbCBShue8FMPYeTQSkiasS6DXMMgZ1A-kMouH22sDTjf7t85dfy6qFE135fQOFfDe19iUnVSY5jrsdElbAxzvQdMrbvfbqpNjo0cNBgPBnbHfvFz5t66i3t2FbnoeyGQoRppGLRTyxIcg-G5jgC5m8B2DTtHKqRI1tHrUG6IsLL8EQr9kZJDdT_HVRtGBTxYSzFz1Z1kRPWWy3XGo9241hG5IoqfifQAthvmxWZcjVvHESFdrAv4s_qcgr8_19dxf3cX1JTsUacUoItgVdCmpOv1dkkQ1IOPthU7nTCYNCAQuGY6wKCA-HDR-h_OF44C5czTM9ImSOp6OLmX70mFh8cqq0M-yX_i8Sfs3ysh5LbBxQPc11h4jxOg1v=w1560-h878-no)

I also drilled and tapped a hole for the clamp that goes to the hardline.  It was also bolted to the old stock crossmember.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nbxHCfvTIvLTp2ww7SRPMc6D1PhAQN9FD9AjJ_JDsO1UIiVpAWqWqWnWtP60RJjCKWVposjCvhOdn6L_r0yaG62FDRT3bOfzv4Fxa3PBeUv3SUQnzDpbjsvFHctK7WwFqoInklETwIsKh3yUkyJhVS2KKdjSPv7B_DQ1MXy-kED-8hfjVUx9TaprMGqSFEx3Rz0ORf-8F8hl9aN5pawj6Ha41L3mL8M9Oqp678NkB_Q2f-3XbTDhusZ-m6AX6Dn2yb7loO9xs5V6ERn0FgQIk5NIpj1y0MGPTM_jxIFf_NjcX2Pf-sbDXkzvnu32JMAAgpsVX5HRe5aUg6rFJRuLAjAqv9iiccDQZhlOnT9PBG8r-qw8n3h_2ajhRo2tbX8Twk67Ai_RhzE_d5_018T2bKr7ZtwJ6m_GBNdczcEcDz7I3XqeJxs9jSheVYJWUGlPto_egQinsxmlf1Mch4xXo51UhhjD1FvmuSx4UjzpA_LFqmnIs23kh2Copg7m1sop0DhPOXz75S9EpFdcm7Kh576VF9XcCgpNZr9rpEkR-tQQv3VnPbE3EB9XR7JsAzDCOpB-vo-9RTce3kLxgXsMtHkmRbWptQbuxEd_13KM8VMAr9J94fJw=w1560-h878-no)

Then I pulled it all out and the engine crossmember, frame side motor mounts and the transfer-case crossmember are going to the powdercoater for a fresh coat of semi-flat black.
Looks good

I don't think the head and cam swap is worth the cost
Stock makes good power



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: frotosride on December 23, 2016, 01:51:01 PM
Picked-up a low mileage 6.0L LS out of a 2004 Yukon Denali XL2500 today! Slightly different route now. Hope I will be satisfied. I don't think I'll be making 410 lb-ft of torque at 1,600 RPM anymore! I'd really like to put some L92 heads and an LS3 intake manifold on it, but the cost of those things along with a new camshaft really isn't in the cards right now.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=19098.msg290063#80

I like it... are you sure of which engine you got, LQ4/LQ9. If you don't have the VIN from the vehicle the only way to tell will be to pop a spark plug and look at the pistons. Flat tops would be LQ9 and 10.1 compression plus the small bump in power from the compression change.  As for the heads and intake change, I'd say go for it but you will also have to get a water pump for an '07 or newer truck and trim the alternator bracket, or get a complete FEAD system from a LS car.
I like the new Crossmember, may I ask why you decided to ditch the OE one?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on December 23, 2016, 07:36:19 PM
The OE crossmember interfers with the oil pan on the driver's side.  You can notch the crossmember or you can put something like the ORD crossmember in.  It gives better clearance to the engine and also better clearance for my crossover steering.

And yes, I am sure of the engine that I got.  It is a LQ4 out of a 2004 GMC Yukon XL 2500 with 95k miles on it.  Full Drop-out in excellent shape!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on December 23, 2016, 07:38:45 PM
Side question...I am getting close to finding out, but does anyone know if the stock LQ4, low, passenger's side A/C pump will fit in-between my frame rails?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on December 25, 2016, 03:23:47 PM
Side question...I am getting close to finding out, but does anyone know if the stock LQ4, low, passenger's side A/C pump will fit in-between my frame rails?
It won't fit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on December 25, 2016, 03:26:55 PM
The OE crossmember interfers with the oil pan on the driver's side.  You can notch the crossmember or you can put something like the ORD crossmember in.  It gives better clearance to the engine and also better clearance for my crossover steering.

And yes, I am sure of the engine that I got.  It is a LQ4 out of a 2004 GMC Yukon XL 2500 with 95k miles on it.  Full Drop-out in excellent shape!
We have a 76 K-10 and instead of modding the crossmember or oil pan
We just put some 1 inch spacers between the motor mount on the engine  and the frame mounts

Raised it just enough that the pan would clear



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on December 26, 2016, 04:25:18 PM
Modify the location of the that side engine mount should make it work.
Title: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on December 27, 2016, 12:20:09 PM
We used some industrial anchor pads for HVAC air handlers

One inch rubber with a metal plate sandwiched in the middle
Was just something we had laying around and looked batter than a stack of washers

https://www.zoro.com/mason-vibration-isolation-pad-4x4x1-14-in-2lvp1/i/G2279121/?gclid=CLC608T-lNECFUw9gQodWogH8Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161227/4e5045c4da1cf1a3665d3585fa7e977f.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 01, 2017, 03:26:48 PM
Having some minor issues getting my engine mounts figured out. I have the Advance Adapters brackets through Off Road Design. First...the bracket hits the harness ground bolt on the Driver's side. It is a minor issue, but what do you guys do with that ground bolt? Sandwich it between the adapter and motor mount?

Second...I had planned on using my stock Chevy Truck Clam-shell mounts, but the clam-shell is hitting the oil cooler lines on the driver's side! Anyone have experience with this?

Should I be using some other set of mounts that will give me better clearance?! I could totally redo the oil-cooler lines, but I am trying to avoid that. The factory routing is pretty sano.  I would like to use the factory block and hard-lines up the side of the engine.

What mounts have you guys used?  Also...I hear that perhaps the stock location for the bellhousing mount might be tight?  Passenger's side head is flush with the bellhousing flange!  Does the rear coil interfer with the A/C box?  Who can verify some of this stuff?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on January 08, 2017, 02:54:47 PM
I have not executed a 4x4 swap, but the room on both sides should be the same.  Have you called Advanced or ORD and see what they said?
Sounds like the engine is set back to far.  Find out the plate PN.  I used the standard SBC location with S&P plates but several people make them.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 08, 2017, 06:37:26 PM
I measured the mounting points and the locations for the adapters was in the correct location to put the back of the engine in the stock location.  I ordered another set of mounts and am waiting for them to show up.  They look like they will work a lot better than the standard adapter plates.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 17, 2017, 10:08:21 AM
So I hit another snag.  Argh!!!

Anyone know the mounting dimensional differences between the SBC and the BBC clam shell mounts?

Apparently these conversion mounts I bought were designed around the SBC clam shell mounts in a 1985 K10.  I was not aware of, until last night that there is an actual difference in the frame side mounting between the SBC and the BBC.  My BBC mounts use a triangular 3 bolt mounting pattern to the frame vs. the SBC 3 bolt mounting pattern that is more like an "L"-shape.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on January 17, 2017, 12:51:19 PM
All of them mount the same on the frame.  The shell on 454 is taller.  But the holes are identical.   I have put a BBC in the SBC place with the same mounts.  Yours probably will be different though because it is a 1 ton but the shelf should be the same.  Just a cross bolt.  Got a pic.  Rushing this post

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 18, 2017, 09:11:29 AM
The mounting pattern is not the same!
SBC mount is a 4 bolt-hole pattern that they only use 3 bolts.
BBC mount is a 3 bolt-hole pattern.

Here is a sketch of the SBC mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6uHUiJ3CMdwKmdlFJKi9BHRoMKXtWBIjEOhrMuoeJPnUtCHSlZMokNkuZPEjDMpxfVICl4qpS39OP9KmUw8tLKPDxQZgA8G_juf2QHjXhOcyS82vAb5ItS0b9QMpWdUFKHoquXlLzb_TbXk58XA40YPaVN2saXJUeBcYrYHLAk9-I-6jGvgeo_JNkbSwuUBIHxGPjirMTD77sOLW7JGI20hSsSFLWJbQYAq12n-hTm1FIYhQwb278ZMUAgKj6M5Uq7JiMJrT4nl4s4aYiqY4gYBhJ1XmSkotN7p2GZfSE0mGS7P0J8lTO_gR8-bTtuhK71pI0dZm4OiaH8Zoad2AwxHtjYA4bMT1gJ3dy8grpEOxb6g0gHoRMMzDV-77CcK9c_QjFGshAb1PBHoH6QmlORjKEUjZntTsxRQLDtonuDJMplCXL7vJxFncATx7haCQIm2yNUd4ZYkd-1GcG99uxfRGyyJr34emYrShMjbERBMQtUvO33lzylwO5Ri3KitZrqOXX5I0ldVk5--XIOSy3fi7f5bt01aes1u0na91aQBE4JQ-Ea_x-3kbEURzt9BWDybsNowhBn2r66lS2fmiFsawe-C6-LqrKSfz0Z45H8ysCjNXVgB7=w485-h775-no)

Here is a sketch of the BBC mount:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vp-wNZeT6qKsoiVrgB19K0aAvDGIL9hiEcVBNPDnaF2n_qvLIyx3xTN7IYNbFkw1KXDGxGbtyz4m2ky2OPrp6JI8xer9b1W7XtH0P1htedaX6sGincD_vFvYwsRbxNRfgj3h2frHMGgr9t22pCxBomqTGYgIaGqaCqcYBH-HSZD3N82-ZBqO_sgSGxz0Z3f0oBg4jZmoDm1h1lqptYWDUzDbVLdKvbK2Ga6kQJ9uppK1p5uH8s95dzXgeSadEu14QQBpQgDF51PZ2Zhw927lA6dOtBY2Bc4nP7tiNDLX8JOHjoJe08uxZyeC5rzFYBHFwQVojHjFmruazL2qf0bTX21KfZaw3Xpw96osXjDZzViO2QUT4Bv6B7ZgzGWgNoooeOMb2j0Tyw3GMhZOzbUvxsnEK959N6Y4h6YSWb8zfgEdoiuE5I7NLOKuIZpFyw5Eq_c0_LHUpIR4fpnOJUoqYBIbYp9Ah3XcQDgIHMiccWsSKtY473McbCF3g9Pk9rOtsKb_kRKKbx7Sr8YkoPzlmGT6bQ-U3K5SP6WrSMKnNeQUtvWq8W2BCfJLAfCO5eLr5jZldKGNzbiJU08Ydzo4fQF0E4R3VEq7wAW0MO6YXhW7zQ9eKJc9=w540-h758-no)

Here is an overlay of the two so you can see how that one bolt just doesn't line up!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1jdDojebZ-USAPCKYzRdGYjBaWQCHsfoen5SQf4dleeaNA9_RaaVwjmAnnUkWqaLQRioHkJuIi10XVFjvKn4ZMiE4olgvJr1jmNl6suBUXkP1vx9hJMRsvXUJu-8rorTOFvMV2RcnQZ3etMxC41fZk2cslrAX0Fd6GB2gPZh_nzYoZcmBQpuvH8RSg_3qHsxhIPfswI2DHD8bdOKSf5JtmTnsrkC548meJiKXXLZsTQneGmah-eDj4TiMe9MGA0vVgRdILyvSkP_ZnNIWZQ5Li8ose3nD06JYOPIJfkXUpJ7cUmf5HSiX09cXA6gUbRwIsKdKX8h9k1QGcMpuMAPh-KDKgehAqapvwa_p2kfZpJFr9ltJZmT4Wu90Gb1pgXY8BwvN6CWj2NFLMpzDaSgjut2hNsXpY85sMkaTouYJjWosEQVrPmjyoN_hW68eNLj3Nks7SU_kCZ4K-juYBG5nKaioUOy_EL_lOL_mKt3HMyH2FPFvcUK6GT0cvnURbjpdM7fyVB3mPlDd9uf0uCJlQaDMT5BUnZYiEY7tG-0CTjAgl9AxfNT4CnPgUzdHmyIr96wEBR_q5zC6JWHUvQUyl2hwsnY7tU4EXypJudIv4pg7AZQHiGg=w463-h652-no)

Here is a picture of the two clam shell engine mounts side-by-side:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/svV_zddM8tOezVGNywzlcAtg0uWgQH-2c94WIfZuWF8929C3m9v_wu4xeWBsDjHcZzvr0fEv9myUHxbrDM-Ia7W2b1oSqRVfP5K5kNQuY3fzC-OpBFrvJR-k4F6dtHrW5R1y1osUsUCvs0HO78F-3p4ot_Ez83lseIdzE22GHTwMw8Ry7nCK6BlNNLlwD0pYSHtbl_8ObWYL18XJ_sRbS-BfZBDmP8qn6Qg_VJXfTmjVnxKFDAuTAOI_VhHyQPoTqLp2mnBNJgppo4lsf5Mmk3XW20yi0vn9eQbmPiuWZwe48wK-LLwg70XIPZMYk08sfWN9IaXJR37sLGMt7LNHEuDlqeflD0Jptm6nStD_nyzS1rbFvaAjEm4Kf8pLKZ59i8mtLyMT1bkuF8FMNQal-KPrLLHgkH0zxbetol6SHC5rpMPS0Zvn7YEoDumh8I4VbMK3SrDDZ9xCF7RJGL_vggxp1R2yILtvpl1U3o8J-wgB5kRDSvlTXQyxQ4Get6NTEGoGHr_cFyOHsr0AC5ZiVwtyGX7OJM0giysw2qEY7bQ1gVUPnF4gzUzt6hc7CsAJSIA0frwA6BIfgYfxFkVclSwlBM7WAHrX7lALjayTidnPRoZ2FSGQ=w1560-h1016-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on January 18, 2017, 12:59:38 PM
Ah you mean the frame side...  definitely different.
Your 1 Ton is different than a 1/2 also.


Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 23, 2017, 10:21:24 AM
Confirmed the low-mount LS A/C Compressor isn't going to fit!  :-[

The back of the compressor interferes with the frame stands for the motor mounts, but if I hacked them up about an inch and moved that motor mount back some, I think it would work!  The only problem is that I am trying to avoid permanent modifications to the truck that can't be reversed.  Why?...I don't know...just wanting to keep it so that I could easily put a Big Block back in it if I want to.  I have access to my work fab shop, so within reason I can make just about anything I can design.

I may look to designing a new bolt-in Passenger's side mount in the future to get that A/C pump back in there, but for now I am gonna cap off the A/C system and possibly buy a high mount kit in the future.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on January 24, 2017, 11:49:09 AM
Take a pic.  Of it in there.  IF you can run the factory setup, I would.  I plan to change mine and put the AC low.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on January 30, 2017, 07:35:49 AM
What do you guys do for vacuum to the heater?  I have Hydroboost for the brakes so no need to worry about a big vacuum line.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on February 01, 2017, 04:15:21 PM
Tee off the factory vacuum port on the truck intake.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on February 01, 2017, 04:18:44 PM
Is that the big push-to-connect fitting at the back of the intake, or the one that is molded shut on the RH side of intake up under the trim cover?  If it is the big push-to-connect one, what fittings are available?  Mine from the 2004 just has a plug fitting in it.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: frotosride on February 01, 2017, 04:55:07 PM
also on the passenger side of the manifold there is often a vacuum  port that still has the plastic break off cat attached and can simply be snipped off.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on February 01, 2017, 04:56:23 PM
The one on the passenger side of the manifold if I remember right.  It  should be the right size.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on February 01, 2017, 05:03:01 PM
That is what I used.

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on February 15, 2017, 01:18:43 PM
Okay...next question...what do you need to do to get the factory gauges to work...oil pressure and water temp?  I've got a '91 so my 454 had electric gauges and senders.  It would be great if I could tap off of the stock LS senders, but I have a feeling it won't be that smooth.  I confess I haven't looked into this much myself, so I am asking you guys without much prior research.

Thanks!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on February 15, 2017, 10:47:29 PM
Yours should have the electronic speedo with a VSS so everything should work.  Just use the same sensors and run the VSS to the ECM

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on February 16, 2017, 08:39:37 AM
Yeah...speedo will be fine.  Was wondering about the other gauges.  My 1991 NP205 has the VSS that is 40 pulse per rev AC Sine wave and the LS uses the same 40 pulse AC Sine wave and apparently in the configurations you can set the output for the cruise control which is 2,000 pulses per rev, so I'm looking good their too.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: hatzie on February 16, 2017, 09:51:11 AM
Just use the 1991 senders for Oil and Temp.  Autometer makes bushings made to go from LS to sqaurebody OPS.  I don't believe the ECM uses the oil pressure for anything.
I assume the LS heads are ambidextrous like the smallblock with a bung in the unused temp sender hole. Soooo...  If the ECM sender is in the front of the LH cylinder head you can install your gauge temp sender in the back of the RH cylinder head.

You can drill and tap for your stock squarebody temp sender.  See post #9 below...
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1261954-oil-sending-unit.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1261954-oil-sending-unit.html)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on February 25, 2017, 08:39:21 PM
Finally got my engine brackets sorted out and set the engine in the truck for the first time!  The LQ4 pan just sits on the ORD crossmember on the RH side where it is more square and there is about 5/16" of clearance on the LH side of the pan where it is scalloped out.  The engine is sitting in there nice and square, so I need to raise up the mounts about 1/4" and it should be golden!

One question:  How do the stock engines sit in these square body trucks?  Are they angled down to the back some, like 2-3 or something, or are do they sit pretty flat?

I did notice on the LQ4 power steering pump, that the lower return line tube (the one that is longer and welded to a brace on the back of the pump) is hitting on the frame and it got bend some.  I will either have to put a little notch in the frame, or modify the return tube.

Other than that, the engine fit in there nicely with plenty of clearance for the stock coils to the 4 Seasons AC Evaporator box.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on March 01, 2017, 12:54:13 PM
3 degree rake

Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz

Title: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on March 05, 2017, 09:46:07 AM
You're gonna love the new engine
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on March 05, 2017, 09:08:52 PM
My 12-yr old son helped me redo the rear cover and main seal yesterday.  Today I got the stock pan gasket off and am cleaning up the pan.  Gotta get the front cover on and aligned before I can do that.

Gonna get the heads shaved to bump-up the compression a little bit and install LS6 valve springs.  Waiting on a new set of GM head bolts and alignment dowels.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on March 29, 2017, 09:31:34 AM
Haven't taken many pictures, but I put new valve seals on, installed LS9 valve springs and had a little taken off of the surface of the heads.  Got the heads back on, valve train installed, new valve cover seals, and recently I reinstalled the harmonic balancer.  To install it, I got a M16 threaded rod, some M16 Fender Washers and a couple of M16 nuts.  It went on easy!  The hard part?...torquing the new bolt to 140 of angular torque!  Man that was a lot to turn that thing 140!  I thought my engine was going to flip-over on the engine stand!  It is about ready to fit back in the truck to final verify my engine mounts are good, so they can be final welded.

Here are a few pictures:

A little homebrew in the kitchen while I was watching Oregon spank the favorites, Kansas to make it into the final 4!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A0jNRJz_rADrC6GqlpVS_4PEP2C8KiT44fdm5eEBtF4R55LJ3psKbI0A4DGAqM0wS2-EM4d_XHkecO9SN6i0lSoHbOrdVOCrUKOcLusdLJnsF-zUER85PE9SLFSmYnsh0oJkKZqQxDyqjQdnN8CPYPEOycURCkx2ljwpYAMJqmrv7ALxa23zMMnipUhTWfz7qAyVg_GecXqvraSdyElfnxG_WUgkCChFZT0b7DNEqQzMbS6-4B2wNZfQFjEeOzXn1Emsg18vy7T-5XSTA6cr95_WMQoqTNzTG03m-73JQYYUmm_ugmUl0pHRzg68r_nwm-PWPxovMgsUV0MsPzjxuWMcZxFuWJmcQvCV6anvlThPOaTPqTlGMTkvs-88qLZ7GlFqUWjPwwV4jrtS_pbacdZK861Mf5FelJy-94OFO6XlOH4WIdq0TK2mYSPFVQIRHpE33e6FnU60NL7opcFIR_mi_PDjuh05aK_Q9XjHd748oGTeUS2qKpvCEAfdP7rGURDOIcgC-qS2BAF2yIrKeAlq4tPUnkMNw7Mkfkm8UYCmoyNdirgJC_0yI6H-_eVhBEEORaBhwSCxYqqQHMEqiqNHG8_TE53GHrPNQL_rJ96qLjM1UAZh=w1021-h1134-no)

In case anyone doesn't know, I was CC'ing the combustion chambers.

Almost finished installing the heads and valvetrain.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5w4GMwqj10VHKs_Wi-8nNAbIXwBeeqxExE3qo8x29T1VagFNzZlqS7_WCBAyJSO50tXko8j-4tZguxYVk8hzvfXqYZhRVe6lMNvJQ0AqjduEnjAqYq80WRMxGmK6R3ejxWw5hdvsqqsarizHfzbFZz4fgcyAaXT8EWOPBKz9W29aUKyeWrCcUe4WgJVTUf-CHDrG3zhH4jjObsAy-tj0ZyR1NNbwoUxrpFdgtXLmPJ3fj-u4j3aCeuTjO80z6uutEeqlWxB4FUKNt_hKiD00IUSe_0sFH1D7d9JPlMmnY-UmvdFYQ3xjAu4qlDxue172ehwlS6mqMQWbc2gsefvsrYPSPkpUnkwN5BxyAFDXaQGISew3oZQD2dB2vE8v207U1hLjcFLVesPQeQm2BMvmKV1luQm91da_MGClCSAupw80Dtp5mOb5L16ufP48ZH8DFV_xOJx1GQrwxoSJiMtXNfarjxCm5eslf1x9r33D2m6a7dFzAmeY-KR7mm2r5L2kGTAD-hKQQnypTY22d4DV3drv1W3vjztrN-G25b8Lp36V0angUgVKm3pilf70hXnWDw5Fy0kGDvGJMnKPMH74_DxAcrdXP54uXkUj8KoE0z93MV9ksi6Y=w944-h1134-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on March 30, 2017, 12:17:16 PM
What are you LS guys doing to prime your engine?  I had some tell me...nothing...it was a drop-out engine and it has a roller cam.  Just fire it up and it will be fine!

I kinda want to prime it, but I don't want to spend money and time making a homemade primer for one engine!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 11, 2017, 01:38:11 PM
Got my EFILive Flashscan today!  Getting close to starting the wiring headache and reprogramming the PCM.

Anyone with suggestions for priming the engine?  I saw a YouTube video of just taking the oil galley plug out of the driver's side front and putting a hose in there and pouring oil into the pump to prime it.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: roundhouse on April 16, 2017, 11:35:54 AM
I ran the starter to do a compression check
Then Just fired it up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 20, 2017, 11:40:58 AM
So I have some questions about the DBW pedal wiring...

I am putting a 2004 LQ4 into my 1991 Chevrolet V3500. For the pedal I am using a 1999 Chevrolet 6.5 Turbo Diesel Pedal. It bolts right up to the stock location and has the exact same pin-out as the 2004 LQ4 Pedal, although some of the pin locations are swapped around between 5 V Ref. and Low Ref. The connector is the same 10-pin Metri-pack connector, only it is keyed slightly different, but it is an easy swap to remove the Metri-pack pins from one connector and transfer them over to the other connector.

My question comes with the 3 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensors.

The 2004 stock wiring harness only seems to use 6 wires and only 2 of the 3 APP sensors are wired up. However, wiring diagrams for the 2003-2004 GM Truck Electronic Throttle Control system show using all 3 APP Sensors. I know that they have done it with 2 APP Sensors and 3 APP Sensors.

I am curious...why have 3 and only use 2? Can I wire up all 3? What is the difference? I'm just curious to know why GM did that! Are there different settings in the PCM?

(http://www.lsenginediy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/193.jpg)
2004 LQ4 Pedal Wiring Diagram

(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/GUYVANIDERSTINE/2010-09-06_062011_05_app_electrical_connector.gif)
2004 LQ4 Pedal Connector

(http://fourseasonsroofingandsiding.com/DB2/0900823d80087024.gif)
1999 6.5 GM TD Pedal Wiring Diagram
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 21, 2017, 09:58:25 AM
Since nobody has chimed in, I will add to this thread with information that I gained from a colleague at work...

Essentially, the newer computers don't use the third sensor. I don't need it and my code is not looking for it to interpolate a throttle value. It seems it was only used in the early computers for a finer resolution, but it proved overly redundant. The third sensor barely ranges 1 Vdc through the whole pedal range.

My colleague thinks GM engineers were really concerned with driveability at highway speeds. The GTOs have a line of code that divides by the 3rd sensor's position. All of the cars built later just use one sensor and then the other is there for OBD double checking.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 25, 2017, 12:10:52 PM
Brought my DBW Pedal into work and powered it up with an adjustable DC power pack.  I confirmed that my pedal is wired correctly and sensor 1 and sensor 2 are within the proper output voltage range that the 2004 TAC module requires.

Now I am certain that my 1999 6.5 TD pedal will properly interface the 2004 LS and that I re-pinned the pedal connector properly.  A few pin swaps into the correct connector cavities according to the previous posted diagrams was all that it took.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 30, 2017, 07:49:05 PM
I have a question about my ISS and VSS wiring.

So I have a 1991 4L80e that has the standard plug for the internals and then it has an Input Speed Sensor (ISS), an Output Speed Sensor (OSS) in the tail of the transmission, and finally a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS, obviously) in the Transfer Case. I do not have a switch in the transfer case for Low Range.

My engine is a 2004 LQ4 out of a 2004 Yukon XL 2500. Apparently it must have been a 2wd because it doesn't have the VSS going past the transmission. What I have is two connectors that plug into the ISS and OSS like it was stock on my transmission as well as the big electrical connector.

My confusion comes that it looks like the rear plug might be a Pressure Control Solenoid Valve? The color of the wires is correct, but I am really thinking this must be the VSS on the 2004?!

What do I do with the OSS on my transmission? Is it not used? My 1991 V3500 had wires going to the ISS, OSS and VSS?!

Does anyone have pinouts for the 2004 PCM?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on May 01, 2017, 07:37:31 AM
I think I figured my transmission wiring out last night.  Please correct me if I am wrong!

I used a dmm to confirm that my rear plug is indeed pinned to the VSS pins on the PCM.  Strange...I am reasonably sure this was an engine out of a 4WD.  Did GMC just use a jumper harness to get to the transfer case?  I was confused looking at wiring diagrams about the PC Sol Valve.  The diagrams made it look like it was a separate connection.  I see that it is actually part of the big electrical connector on the transmission.

The PNP connector looks like all I need is the Park/Neutral wire and the Backup wire?!
I have this connector:
(http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=1043171&stc=1&d=1358506723)

I still want to go through the pins on the big connector to make sure they match my 1991 transmission and no pins are swapped.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on June 23, 2017, 01:54:30 PM
Been finishing up the install of my new tanks and fuel lines, etc.  I also re-did the fuel fills.  The previous owner replaced the bed with a slightly older version that did not have the 3 holes in the bedside for mounting the 87-91 fuel filler plastic cups.  I had to layout the holes and drill them.  Very nervous, but measure, measure, measure, drill and I got them all to line up perfectly!

Now I am working on modifying my fuel lines so that they have the GM Quick Disconnects in the hardlines and run everything through the Corvette Filter/Regulator and then up to the fuel rail.

Trial run with the Mastercool Hydraulic Flaring Tool:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/POgChbhQDPxMi94yVIFbHVgWytTa6pRaiY9mVbs6xkmpgx2yZolHR8hqMhzK9222nZaFhVsg9IENfwIS9uaMNOy-oFLapBWbwPTTvvQ9rmPX_RBCYjtWnTPRfTOpsxDobRP0slHE6bFaH3_lr0TE10-BNiFR7s-anzmi9gpf6Xoklduo2X9uPINKMZ70lVxpzFfr3Vkygletu9MZ-5oJ5y7-f9h8Df31FjJvQm7IVPaTjGlpmROIJMuyAoY1Zdljvk3s4AMwyb4yRoOeXAQxL3KohB136Olm8_mH21ovIgqn75-pDSQpZpwz9xiXua9Qf48ICqXFONVQ2rSBqpXIUvaPRAuIqEhqDpcON3g4B4mz7N_gh6zvKv8mrMOM6Me6Hocm0zvmtiJZjz8L46YkdLjGKTsuuaRUxok4bHDBHlyjDUXm4cHr59JklDLXYT5OqFdcr9m5rNmW3TFw0fnB0bN_tRmecy4i3tXDv-cjNkw98Rvsnn286YyldmfBbCBiPOvEe8QndBgJ37064tj00Yxje9l2cNsWw4A3eC4GdVfIzyncZg7VNMrl4FCiQYPDqzFHqT-4JbO8mfeH3bk2xdpsUX97Yd2EeqcDy-hiYNhZtovMWEH5rnao=w1920-h1080-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on July 11, 2017, 09:26:46 AM
Haven't updated in a while...

The engine, transmission, & transfer case were all put in a couple of weeks ago.

I got a new transmission dipstick and indicator for the 2004 LS that this came out of from my local Chevrolet dealership.  My 4L80e dipstick tube out of my 1991 V3500 had the bracket that goes to the bolt on the bellhousing that was eliminated on the LS bellhousing.  The LS version for the 4L80e goes to the next lower hole.  I confirmed that the dipstick tube on the bottom half is bent exactly like my 1991 version.  I did have a heck (trying to not cause here!) of a time getting it installed.  I had already installed the transmission and now it is painfully clear to me that you should wire up the tube to the firewall and install it at the last few inches of installing the transmission!!!  But...I can confirm that it is possible to install the tube after, but it isn't fun!!!  I almost thought I was going to have to rent a transmission jack again and pull it all back apart!  The tube is a little scratched up, but nothing that a little masking and paint can't fix.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S15gxWNhUdneZEGFkb1ZWCAgCgdWcJFpbhjJsrBWUenPgstGhXYsbK2JaMezdR_-Uk-a4MFuUvR5XmPqf4xa7yF57nJUUkUFmMpxGurZ6Zg_ez3TRIAkDw5RJhhej2VuAegf3wGIFFfg4KOpcIUKeBbXWTIPgYlLQ8E85AzoovF3qAFsc6CCUWu3qYMuXEOVHkEEudzio91S52wEFJVXo7HEs5kqEEhEVDnytQwAMVzfedaU-wfi4s4J4GheZgwf-Sr9jshjhuih8U_l_Gcih1OhNU2mobT98Ra8LjUuHt83P4gCRa1uyIhcoov0Y3iFLqjnPN9m-9XgPkgpR7MsZDLO4U5c3yUCHoRq3yCDW9x0JsrwNnvgPQPnkmf3xU0vmS5sbM-YIIq6bQqFdsN6nWGTxQhoZUr9mEDSYOLGrt4WTe_3btGgUkeG6sjhrlAuYThFOcm7UXSZ_rcBz0mlYj1EbCzZAQba9t2d581gfF7kIsDXfB-x4vVlYjCl7dnxYWzViMeXT4yslsoqsKRf2A9qBNeaT8_JxnBbNJdHW_ORdb2lqIxIYKbrbhhi_nljWNjZmVryUyNQkOhxnDBB5Z6Rbv0SjrdOyB7nJNtsHER_URRGG3EcYqR4hKVYzsiH1osUvWnh3i2nivDzkeP4oQSknS1vMkyyCq9v9E3GBHlwZw=w1560-h878-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8P6iH20xH1RUvRsUSrzt26cQs5o56u5nhFGR0h7xHDbVVuz-miCD5mWJj5jt2EndWHlNLFwUhAOpSDpoH7BPGMeAe84UXhtdA-rFn11fdp1K2_I6EY9rwWY2yFM8doYWNsJbxSjOPhJ09t2pHdHiBRanMALgzX26bPQ2VbGj-6MZwx1UVbEvZZLMdY3jjHWEfPGCqgMtHrzlodYsEFS-qG1--Lehkdz76NFqpyizWEk0Ic9ZRAFka8ar7vZ8N4BRpCh5-qvzejwZKUChmM7fCsNYPDj3y-7uk__VnRaPuDqe2oOJTFdm5ct3qNBGQmpbhW41p3SPu3nl4nl7s5ufbfjFnakV0llLLhois78rRTeIxkluIHo9pWQooM-OaxJcRQfFxcmJn7U3d5VqZw9g8GGyXb9fkdYzp3MmN1jjLH-oxdZEIo4zxz14ImTV7GYhf_qrLYxjK1ZRKCt5JXUPlsV1MjtMJQfYRHzlfZ4dEeeRowIeKJqRH_2tqfPEJihXhwG4GygttauMCf5ai9D74FfLl92I7u7NKgby0kHN_sI_XFjVHWRAG-qBoRgxGtjHr-5z75g8BDeA3xOwC5BxkAks1thF7RDRM-fnfTOdJmpmpln0Invar0bpK3mdtGB0BediTdR5mbpoirhnPia650S9Tkn94H5_vfMI0cXxyqtxIQ=w1560-h878-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Q1z-Nyk88h53GSJdhXJNmXpLRGdSJ7Y_gcDG0fOuOw2mrLjfQsZEmopKraIXAwphnvIA6n53J3DrLT25S_Git-6Sa5xQ_GeOwMhGzNxD_TyssWaEnFiiTRD8ZmlUXKShcDCVwEbFJpuM3XMZ8bpheNdMOAQgdSjSWtf549lUWFFQC08UEgy3rQ5iG-IbwzJKIaoFJY_iTP92FwwUpWIGvhuqcpJheh4jOfR8SFaRLw8hAJnQtjBJjAkWHp9Er01y-cUUU8iByQm8RHUJCkqlN2YUmF7bA-EK2Yx9Ed2W8xXVqapfGSi4C2PiKJaQsoYWOgWqrnPRpfnln4k_mPJfeXabcXElDIfaadfGB9K5e5kSGZ5PRAaR4u75Ck6U6QhTzOkaO3bMw3BzsYetBTaS5q8c7Im8zBdmSbaOueIA55LQJYKpH2BwncXwVoTvEuM9nHpDsrESYjrnzKNTUXhANIVjaDxIz3cvztRjYIPJQ0TVOakWmjcM8k-UBFr2q6azddLyndZVBS0Zt5rV-ISh9OrehGnNaAw23p7oBDBzcnuZfgpA_P8OfemQsmT3F_6r7ltFUwdSFysXY1QzT1afohX4Cl0nh16z6AardMCvs1MC7hMAGTtn--2hnPXoYAA9LCqwkNbF8fmr-KeR59l4qfsgAtYWK-W1uJGBDq21jYiwHA=w1560-h878-no)

And then I did get a few things crossed off of my list last night...
New oil filter for the LS, filled with oil and installed
Rear 2-piece driveshaft is all installed and lubed
Converter bolts are all installed and torqued
Gear shift mechanism all re-installed and adjusted
Transfer case shifter all installed and lubed

Only about 50 more things to do before this pig gets fired-up!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on July 15, 2017, 08:28:36 PM
Went through the intake valley and installed a new gasket and knock sensor grommets. Did the LS knock sensor TSB. Checked the knock sensors then put a loop of RTV around the valley cover at both knock sensors. Left the back section open for any water to escape. I left the rear foam block on the intake manifold, but once I installed the intake and examined the installation I thought better of it. I was able to remove the rear foam block with the intake manifold installed!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Fdttr6c84NSxwB_biNtTZMBZ69SxVFNpZbi_OPv0ElrZtg_UtykA_CuEgHbcm3t37hrJoxPNiShVyyRlb3GFDvKzm9hUlVfjxJ3Iy_yt3yNbET62DCxC2lUmUsEle6SN6r_0F9O491fj8EhTioCyrVZ6sMZ6vl31OTGAdf6OFhZr21fwXxSGtWoYkmDSC-sDm_BSMDOvuxGN9Sszhk1r9uG8ntQJp43OdKNNF7FDh9CjMxbw6XihU43yoULPPpktHKp_YcY0MKTiGYdxPnB2z4Rcmz_44NGBalZ7hYS-VXkIgRsFlTdTJ3yYRZOZejZNpDknKukL9XciYUlh4u1dDPe__ypaGA_J8_eIChGodrIrRUreyBobnRBXoy8gqQIYbV61RbQAZjoCT9Ds1V2rpm0_k4RE7wbzDX3_Q8rz1sQCR1QqVTmOTq6HuQb3H-cJQsnTXgbbX_joUg7kskwduOSn5zbIPXxnQYQoH_SvvBdnY08fdgxH0lq3sX7FV4gYYdLVWnXpheRPCw1TepgR2d7imNOFCRf8NswuwRRB5qHyJXXTfXLs919F4Ffrw7lE1LHzQczDdjZ296UOEw6lTvDpNLbdHuO8CdJO2EjuTssCvH41QXhNppaPqCtyXez8w6vr3viJzMlbhEdKvRqMsw4Zo-Q9URCV0UGPnkI4gAkN6g=w1920-h1080-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on July 19, 2017, 02:15:11 PM
Standing back and looking at the thing...and then using my phone inclinometer app, I realized that my engine is sitting with about 4 rearward slant (that's great!) and is heeled-over to the passenger's side 2?! With the intake manifold on, I can see it more clearly. The top of the intake manifold is off of the centerline of the firewall by about an inch. I wonder if my frame is slightly off, or if just all of the bolt holes and fasteners have enough slop for it to tilt that much?! It won't solve all of my header issues, but maybe it will allow the RH header to fit?
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 18, 2017, 08:53:44 AM
I have a question for anybody that has replaced fuel tanks on the later year square bodies...

So this weekend I powered up my truck temporarily to jumper the fuel pumps and check the fuel system for leaks.  I have completely replaced the fuel tanks, senders, and fuel pumps.  With that I redid all of the flexible lines with new Gates Barricade FI rated hose for the pressure side and Gates Barricade standard hose for the return and vent side.

When I redid the driver's side tank I took the original rubber hose from the frame to the tank...measured and cut new hoses the same length.  The stock hoses were kind of shaped like a bell and I noticed comparing to my '77 that the connection point on the frame and the connection point on the sender are awfully close to each other, which forces the extra length of the hose to bend weird.  When I first installed the tank, I noticed that the lines got kinked up and so I had to drop the tank again.  I readjusted the lines and put the tank back in place.

Well when I went to pressure test, the RH tank built pressure to 60 psi no problem, but the LH tank was not building pressure and the pump sounded weird.

Fast forward and I dropped the tank and rechecked...pump is building pressure just fine to 60 psi...lines were kinked!

So...my question...how have you routed the lines and how long have you made them?  They need some length so you can drop the tank and get access to remove and install the hoses.  Removing the bed is too much work for one guy just to fiddle around with the tank, plus the connections are partially under the cab and I do not know if access would be good enough with just removing the bed.  I am thinking I need to lengthen the lines and then make the loop around to prevent them from kinking.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on September 18, 2017, 10:54:18 AM
I've always made a loop, that way you never have to worry about being too short, or kinking.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 18, 2017, 01:25:54 PM
Good to know!  I think the stiffer FI rated hose just doesn't want to bend the way the original lines did.  Looping makes sense, though the lines have to cross over each other and there isn't a lot of room when the tank is in place.  I kinda worry about the hoses rubbing on the cab, but it is probably no worse than the factory setup.  You just can't see up in there worth a darn with the tanks in place.

On a side note...for those who have wondered...and I know it has been done before, but I can confirm that at least in my testing of the pumps and checking for any leaks...the plastic Pollak switching valve for these trucks like mine, that are rated for 65 psi do in fact work with the higher pressures.  My switching valve still had the sticker on it that stated 65 psi, so this is not a new switching valve!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 19, 2017, 09:03:05 AM
Laid out a template of the connections from the sender to the hardlines on the frame and tested the length of my lines and the routing of the loops.  Cut the new hoses and installed them last night.

Before I mounted the tank back to the frame, I jumpered the fuel circuit again and tested the pumps.  RH of course is still fine...no problem, but now the LH pump is making a God awful racket, but making 60 psi.  However, the pressure gauge needle is vibrating and the pump sounds awful!  Guess I toasted the pump?!  Both tanks have 10 gallons of fuel in them, so I didn't starve it, but the less than a minute running the brand new ACDelco EP381 pump with a kinked line, ruined it?!  Are these pumps that sensitive?!  Guess I need to buy a new pump!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 20, 2017, 10:35:35 AM
Ordered a new ACDelco EP381 pump to replace the one that is giving me problems.  Warrantying the bad one.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: hwh on September 20, 2017, 10:46:34 AM
Hate to her problems your having. Changing in tank fuel pps no fun. Guess pump got to hot when line was kinked. I used the ep381 also, hope it last a long time lol.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 21, 2017, 08:52:08 AM
Man, I didn't run that pump very long!!!  I would think they should be a little more robust than that.  Might have been suspect right out of the box, but I trust ACDelco more than some off-brand cheap-o pump.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: hwh on September 24, 2017, 12:01:33 AM
Yea I had a 97 Chevy 2500 years ago had it til 2002. Had to change fuel pump twice during the 289,000 miles I put on it in 5 years. And it was same fuel pump on those trucks.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on September 25, 2017, 09:16:53 AM
Replaced the pump on Friday night and all it good!  Warrantying the bad pump!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on October 24, 2017, 09:32:15 AM
Haven't updated in a while.  Unfortunately the progress has slowed as I work on fixing little things here and there.  Lately I have been working on replacing the cracked-up radiator support.  With that, I have been cleaning up every little thing that is mounted to the radiator support!  This is time consuming!!!

This weekend I found the correct charcoal canister bracket for my crew at the local pick-n-pull.  They had an '89 suburban there and the bracket looked correct.  My truck never had the bracket and the charcoal canister was just laying at the front of the driver's side wheelwell.  Last night I drilled and installed (3) 5/16-18 AVK inserts to mount the bracket, as my aftermarket front fenders did not have the weld-nuts to mount it, but did have one locating hole for the bracket.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VGW3TqshaFKn_bBkw0s76fES9OkCnb-Zn_V1kfZMBzHfXYKNAIYaiRF9eQSKDMNrOI4ZYn-pPfKJ-FzxCTnt5TGcptWkOJA779Go3_i5OmQixcUF9gtyvvmibLqVGKvXWqjDS5p79seUkrWmeL0NDl9aZUXrMrgOu9Q7rL47FwseIyGotn5vrGldl2RdodjCio4kVYsdkxuzaZou36XK0lr1GeldFKVdcLt7JZrNgcJehds6J0iYJFZZ-l1yyikKoUvw_ImMqpJ51qytaUEnkzNaRIdzy9cJU5oy2lXWuVchMIqhA2LtLaXmO00uo3nJiq6NrnzLTiOU6Ra8ihjjjM0FbY82cQzlU1GDW7qfUroYKpe-C7noYWAmtTCQF_aRqofEojNAtujZGEQdXqUGgNUOk6aqHS6b6QoyIoOz83S6GE9unLhB64-VrZFLvivRevGVEL64H24XawZUaDJHYzBNdZzK-hApktoLDXzw-t6_ktwfV5yQ57W0ek83SiKgUKzBxXI_Mlx7ApI-vJSZbvrRsdgTNkMPQwWpYzXeaKa9YHXtSs28U6jRfYJVpmcad0MpAVnXhQu7OP5a4k8I27lU1MLYv-k_blxH4tfFpovEZyCWmzwuzcyP0lDBwL0ppXRkpKd6w0V2MC5xMaTV7xxeYbavPWM0X_w=w1920-h1080-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captkaos on December 04, 2017, 11:33:32 AM
For the fuel tank lines I make them the same length as they can get kinked when looped. Neighbor tried that on his TBI truck and burnt the TBI pump up within a week (AC Delco) It makes it a pain to remove the tank, but it's not any worse than before.

As for the switch valve, it should be fine unless you run more pressure.  Most LS run around 52 at the regulator. 
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on February 20, 2018, 09:30:04 AM
Been a little slow and stalled-out on this while I work on little things and figure out some technical details of finishing the swap.

One of the biggest challenges has been connecting up the LS to my factory GM oil cooler, but that finally got resolved yesterday afternoon!

What do you do when your factory GM oil cooler that bolts directly to the radiator support has an odd-ball SAE o-ring fitting that there is absolutely no AN adapter for???  What I thought was a metric o-ring fitting (18mm x 1.5 tube-form o-ring fitting) turned-out to be a 3/4-18 fitting.  For those that don't know, the standard 3/4" fitting is 16 thread per inch, not 18.  GREAT!  So through much searching on the internet, I was only able to find 18mm x 1.5 to -6 AN, but I need to -8 AN.  They make these fittings for power steering boxes for -6.  I was able to find one fitting through Fastenal that was 18mm x 1.5 Inverted flare to -8 AN, but they were $20 a pop and that didn't solve my o-ring dilemma!

So...what to do?...

make a 3D model of the fitting you need, create a drawing, go buy a short section of 7/8" 6262-T6511 Aluminum Hex Bar, and bring it to your machinist friend at work!!!

Yesterday I received these fittings from him and now I have everything to finish plumbing the oil cooler to the engine!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HPkhEhq6TXKWui29bIMA4v7a59VXLFC5EJy63gTX26-YJc1ZJvafy0zYuO2u9qO0eTsnBHNMaMEUlKmJvGdMZNuwCVceYxMAUeIhDhHXCyqaukqYiV_dVS2vqsTsPtc_1nGQBwRqI31CEC67llV5HysRnWgjjm3j0kiJrDLTwARHj_lfZl0L1Hg9a5YErvyKfIYRoQrw_gic6KTbSL_UuveZPsAAuy9LA4dOqzJSZ45KkdhTU_vISZn057FMnsJnA5QTq_V2tbPzgg2Ld6SX5g6r8_KkYdwStLG4cclDrvcOefkSd_lgQOTUUCwWev7vyEwrz15ccoaeKqRvDkkcBn8_dBanb93TlooRaD3_z5RGyohCQg5Mq8_cjIO9G-IP8XrB7h57u_x-EOh-IaA4WYTrQg2XsZ5KCjv4whRYq3Yd3O3snBp_HqzKsV3tQ4u9FkiWJcMTsjtz0CDQhFUBWIavkrhG2NjQzxCrnytCoATYE579wrYhcKp1I4nJvK5Yg6CY2Tf3ckcunt7ohNGve45cF5Ouslatk_zKJWgvNf_Zcwwym9PrueEGQ8ECyQDuuBNNoqIRKOMNqpd-ceZR8u5VClDqd24BQ4U7nrjLB41AAqPEdAxDyavG1q2QDnXa6ipEDK059KkOu3yUN4TeFoZc44_X31Ty=w1560-h1116-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on March 08, 2018, 04:19:44 PM
So last weekend I went ahead and anodized the fittings at home! I tried coloring them black, but it didn't take so well with the RIT dye. No big deal, they are going to reside under the radiator support, but they do have a nice anodized surface, which should help protect them even more.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EEcRLXof_HGAgPSt7LUtatO0ixbZI2_SqmluznmgZIMZeQ1-z-u0GHucKD_dG5CKVnEbqsbWTTt8hJW9xqzHXCVSsgTSI4czThb2u38L5G_UtKxnZSRko3hwpwA2me0iPUEuyZ9lkq_Se-fpecavgy30kiaZKdc91vJjrJvM4_8g9vKH_FHtcYi6xZ5zMwv4uxPU9vchoaIasXKPSnTTi2HdYx5J2h8L9EmycK8Zr9jGnau1d3HtMvvFMUxZ_5gjrdBEISlNYdSutd-7sAs9HlWmpTk7pmHWDuhSGP50LMJQzwyPAKWcq_BF_hrY_RsqGFRzTu9AaK9f412RBmvIMGoDTme_J2iG1EOJz-QTFcZIPkIX92VC5zsF505_6EwncXsquMFLCGItbRKKUdETw9myjVaX_TQNByeFXpNaJV7cKD-I92-3VhpVJBvRz_hk31pjdnHtXSBkGcMRtloFKQIGdQ1ALzyF9DoM0Vf4iaiKw1CA-WxFK9Gmh_uWPQgYFO59w07mH_RUxGpamKusTsaEmCu4zuxxuLRDyQcmT7_kIhKljT0tAyZHu_pxBRkiPLiqvQE0gTiE7e_qdrznmxtFlNlzGogj2ATl4VA=w1560-h878-no)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DgOnrMEDI-cR1fz59j51Iy8-Qs3VOa-2Mw8w92juHIhJPp7OQRY7dqumLsiJ7eCOM9vjDz86rTrkFOt5KRO5PMS9KN5z2eVuwZvYSDcdXGOO7eCuI9JxdrloqYU_LH1paCRUcjXXviCfEefwPpXQ6sA_L8BWlfugKSHHS5AQ3YXlLL3vat6thOxQ7b7E0eAEBrHd9s0Kg93muzhM3NKBXzV4qKQ97Gd-LpaVgTSj1AlnWoXxUyIQONz1pQ_tHBwVNgdmagXvcN_a0ebjdNmIia3uqbY5Xu2mPyjdvS8YLi9VKErwONwVV-MtrLV2FVeeujxNOhbQPKJ6o6eQeloCLl18OHBjp3GlWSBJoeQxt6P1XFEN-xWDGtudnoIVhsxbNXFVEjwkqjhR4RFPmXS6hSOMCu7fveaC1Zy43RXRbRcEQPPTFwbIZqXdR8N3OkdFzFvIHmNwq6a0CtHCoDO1TVqagzDMU1ksObKfl_LFCKmy5fhFlReMF3f0o2stQlOi2d9yIm77ta5QFqdhuxHnc2hMGchmi0m9SX5ayfz1Q4EugZfmAHNVBooGa_MAZr89pr9dtzt6vg9O4LFoUIfeq_p1eB5XlCzIHDZAI3k=w1560-h1124-no)
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: VileZambonie on March 08, 2018, 05:54:16 PM
Why not just eliminate the oil cooler altogether? They are prone to leaks and blowing up engines.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on March 09, 2018, 12:09:58 PM
I had 220,000 miles on my V3500 crew cab with the 454 and factory AC Delco oil cooler.  Now I will have a 96,000 mile 2004 LS 6.0 with an Improved Racing Oil Cooler adapter with -8 AN lines to a brand new AC Delco Oil Cooler.  I'm not scared.  I just wanted to fool around with home anodizing.  I didn't have to do it.  The 6262-T6511 alloy has excellent corrosion resistance to atmospheric conditions and good corrosion resistance to sea water.  The anodizing was something that we did in college for parts we made for our FormulaSAE cars.  I just hadn't done it in years.  It was a fun experiment!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: Captain Swampy on April 10, 2018, 07:08:24 PM
Cool swap! I can't wait to see it done.
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 11, 2018, 08:34:49 AM
Me either!!!  I just got back by factory Chevy front valance panel.  I got it from a junk yard, had it blasted, primed it with 2k epoxy, and took it to a local body shop to be painted to match.  Now I am swapping out by factory wiring for my Auxiliary electric fan to put it into a nicer front harness that I got off of a Suburban, but it didn't have the Aux Fan wiring.

The swap doesn't take much time, it is all the little details that are dragging!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on April 17, 2018, 08:44:02 AM
Got my oil cooler lines all installed with push-to-connect AN lines.  Put a new PF61 tall filter on it and filled the engine up with 6 quarts of 5W-30.  I ordered a few little terminals to redo my forward harness.  They were delayed by the storms back East and when I got them and they were not the right terminals.  Now I need to order the right Metri-pack 630 sealed terminals so that I can finish this dang forward harness and button up the front end.  Add in my son's Boy Scouts and my daughter's softball and I am making slow progress on the little details!
Title: Re: 1991 Crew Cab Going 6.0 LS
Post by: ehjorten on July 16, 2018, 09:07:47 AM
Tried the 2006+ 6.0 LS Dual Fan setup from GM in my truck (TYC 622230).  Because the stock LS radiator is the same width as my 1991 with the 454 (34" wide) and with the mounting ears on the dual electric fan setup, I thought it might just work.  When I got the part, I measured the top mounting ears and compared to my stock fan shroud mounting.  To my surprise...exactly the same dimensions!  SWEET!!!  This bodes well!

Unfortunately, the LH fan interferes with the power steering lines and frame rail.  If there wasn't so much interference there, I think it would dang near fitup perfect!

Now I am back to the drawing board...going to model up a fan shroud for a high-CFM single electric fan and use it in conjunction with my stock auxiliary electric fan.