1
« Last post by Shifty on January 16, 2026, 01:24:49 pm »
Personally, I'd either go with the Moroso aluminum fuel line (25') roll, or later-model nylon fuel line, and run compression-fittings on the ends.
If you're going for an OEM look, ignore my suggestions. 
Although there are exceptions that depend on the country and locale having jurisdiction, hence, geographic location, the use of compression fittings in fuel systems generally is considered dangerous due to the potential for leaks, therefore, are illegal in application. Compression fittings are easy to assemble, but require an exact fit of the ferrules to the tube, which can be sensitive to over-tightening, causing tube distortion and delayed leakage. Consequently, double-flare fittings often are used and in some cases required. Ultimately, repair procedures that are considered safe with the lowest liability are those specified and published by the OEM of the equipment.
I would agree with you 100%, but the ones for nylon line as used in late model vehicles have the inner sleeve that make them a tad more idjit-proof. Personally, it would be the Moroso line for me.
2
« Last post by VileZambonie on January 15, 2026, 05:32:10 pm »
Unless you have lowered the crossmember, the spacers go above the frame rail. No one can tell you if your pump will interchange without knowing what you took it out of.
3
« Last post by VileZambonie on January 15, 2026, 05:28:52 pm »
Order yourself a sidewinder 3/8 and 5/16 line
4
« Last post by bd on January 15, 2026, 04:28:46 pm »
Personally, I'd either go with the Moroso aluminum fuel line (25') roll, or later-model nylon fuel line, and run compression-fittings on the ends.
If you're going for an OEM look, ignore my suggestions.
Although there are exceptions that depend on the country and locale having jurisdiction, hence, geographic location, the use of compression fittings in fuel systems generally is considered dangerous due to the potential for leaks, therefore, are illegal in application. Compression fittings are easy to assemble, but require an exact fit of the ferrules to the tube, which can be sensitive to over-tightening, causing tube distortion and delayed leakage. Consequently, double-flare fittings often are used and in some cases required. Ultimately, repair procedures that are considered safe with the lowest liability are those specified and published by the OEM of the equipment.
5
« Last post by Shifty on January 15, 2026, 02:10:56 pm »
Personally, I'd either go with the Moroso aluminum fuel line (25') roll, or later-model nylon fuel line, and run compression-fittings on the ends. If you're going for an OEM look, ignore my suggestions.
6
« Last post by Mr Diesel on January 15, 2026, 01:20:00 pm »
Buy some fuel hose by the foot and cut to size. You aren't going to find a stock preformed rubber line for a 47 year old truck.
7
« Last post by metalcutter1 on January 15, 2026, 12:40:02 pm »
I am trying to find a preformed fuel line for my 1979 GMC C-10 with a 454 big block.
It's the rubber line under the hood going from the steel line from the tank to the fuel pump.
I know that I can use rubber line from the a reel, but I want to keep it as stock as possible.
I don't know the part number(that would be a great help)
All of the preformed fuel lines that I have found are 3/8, this is not 3/8.
Everything about this truck is 3/4 ton, but it's a half ton.
Any help would be appreciated.
8
« Last post by juancano on January 09, 2026, 02:54:01 am »
I was thinking of that! Will do thank you.
9
« Last post by bd on January 08, 2026, 10:47:37 pm »
Do yourself a BIG favor! Disassemble the ground connection you just serviced and liberally coat the terminal and sheet metal with some antioxidant paste available in the electrical department of most hardware stores. Reassemble, ensuring the screw is tight. This will help eliminate a recurrence.
10
« Last post by juancano on January 08, 2026, 07:24:10 pm »
Sonnnofa..... it was the ground.
The ground is screwed to the body (sheet metal) with a metal ring and a bolt. I undid it and noticed it was kinda rusty. I sanded the terminal and the part on the body clean, and now it works.
IDK why I don't check for that kind of stuff first. It seems it's a bad ground 90% of the time!!
Thank you all for your help!
|
1
Recent Posts