Recent Posts

11

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Motor Mounts

« Last post by VileZambonie on April 12, 2026, 04:37:37 pm »

The worst part is the fact that they used nuts and bolts instead of weld nuts. So you have to get an offset 9/16" wrench or make your own, to get in there and hold the nut. The mechanical fuel pump and lines running under the passenger side bracket don't help either. Have beer on hand.

12

Body, Glass & Paint / Re: Windshield and Backglass Chrome Locking strips Question

« Last post by Rapid Roy on April 12, 2026, 01:08:36 pm »

I bought my 74 in 2015. I replaced locking strip in 2018. This was the first time for me. I did not know how old any of the glass rubber was. It was very hard for first time. Never saw any signs of leaks. Replaced windshield first and back glass was easier for me.

13

Body, Glass & Paint / Re: Windshield and Backglass Chrome Locking strips Question

« Last post by zieg85 on April 12, 2026, 09:06:15 am »

That restore was a good write up.  18 years ago, wow...

14

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: Fuel Lines from the top of the tank to the selector valve replacement

« Last post by zieg85 on April 12, 2026, 09:04:28 am »

raising the bed would be easier IMO.  With the bed bolts tacked to the bed would be a plus.

15

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: Fuel Lines from the top of the tank to the selector valve replacement

« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on April 11, 2026, 11:56:56 pm »

Been Moving it around with this...

16

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Fuel Lines from the top of the tank to the selector valve replacement

« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on April 11, 2026, 11:49:49 pm »

Well they've dried up and cracked and are sucking air now.  Trucks been sitting for a few months cuz I haven't gotten to it yet.   

Which do you guys think is easier, Raise the bed enough to access them (bed bolts were removed 18 years ago and tack welded to the bed floor) or drop the tanks (which have never been removed from new)?

I think it's gonna be raise the bed.  What's the best way to do that?  Do I have to remove the step bumper?  I last replaced those hoses 18 years ago when the bed was off for painting but we didn't have ethanol gas back then.  I have new good hoses for that now, just askin which you think is easier, I think it'll be raising the bed.

17

Body, Glass & Paint / Re: Windshield and Backglass Chrome Locking strips Question

« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on April 11, 2026, 11:45:00 pm »

I know the tool to install them can be a little rough on the seals being old and likely hardened.  Have any of you done this successfully on an 18 year old window gasket?

Can't believe it's been 18 years since I restored the truck and I was here on this site doing it!

18

Body, Glass & Paint / Windshield and Backglass Chrome Locking strips Question

« Last post by 78 Chevyrado on April 11, 2026, 11:43:16 pm »

So both my Chrome Locking strips on both windshield and back glass have yellowed like they all do.  The rubber Gasket was installed around 2008 or so.  Do you think it would be a problem for me to put a new lock strip in that old of a window gasket?  I want them to look new again but I don't want to cause leaks or tears in the old gasket by installing them. If I need to put in a new gasket I'll wait a good while longer to replace them...lol

19

Electrical / Re: Battery cable replacement

« Last post by bd on April 11, 2026, 02:42:31 pm »

Peel the split loom off the wires near the alternator.  Does the red wire connected to the output post loop back to the #2 terminal of the regulator connector?

20

Electrical / Re: Battery cable replacement

« Last post by bd on April 11, 2026, 02:37:24 pm »

Disconnect the jumper wire between the battery cable 'red box' and the alternator output stud, but leave the wire between the alternator output stud and the firewall junction block connected.  Reconnect the battery cable to battery.  With the ignition switched OFF (i.e., engine not running), probe the alternator output stud with an incandescent test light that is clipped to a shiny clean ground.  Does the test light illuminate?

I did this test. After removing the jumper, reconnecting battery, turning ignition to “on” but not engine running the test light does illuminate when touching he output stud with the test light. With the switch in the off position, (key not in ignition) the light remains off. Let me know what I should try next.

You added an extra step by probing the alternator post with the ignition ON...

Repeat the test exactly as you did before, including your extra step, but with both wires disconnected from the alternator output post.