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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control
« Last post by bd on February 20, 2026, 10:34:29 pm »Thanks for the update. Glad you got it sorted out. We're always happy to help a brother in need.
Well, it's that season of year when your time is best spent inside your garage working on your truck! And, this is the best place for valuable information, camaraderie, and the High-Quality Parts needed to support your project!!
We are GLAD to have you here, joining in!!!
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by bd on February 20, 2026, 10:34:29 pm »Thanks for the update. Glad you got it sorted out. We're always happy to help a brother in need.
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by doneebaker on February 20, 2026, 04:30:23 pm »Well I did some probing so to speak. I replaced the inline fuse as suggested and verify power to the relay, all working . Next i installed a new control panel to spruce it up inside with a new switch. Plugged in the switch and it would work intermittently. I discovered one of the terminals inside the plug was broken and not making good contact. Repaired the broken terminal and it works as should.. Thanks for all the help I really appreciate it.
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by Rapid Roy on February 17, 2026, 11:46:26 am »Check this fuse and replace if blown.
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by bd on February 16, 2026, 09:06:05 pm »At the very least, it sounds like you have a bad blower switch. But, there is more to the story and problem. Refer to the posted wiring diagram. The 18-gauge orange control wire from the blower switch is for high blower speed; it energizes the high blower relay to supply B+ power directly to the blower motor via a 15-amp inline fuse and 10-gauge orange wire that are physically restricted to the engine compartment, bypassing all lighter-gauge wiring inside the cab. Odds are that the plastic inline fuse holder connected to the firewall B+ junction block (located somewhere above the passenger-side engine valve cover) is melted, severing the high-blower fuse connection to B+ power.
Does the high blower relay "click" when you jump brown to orange at the blower switch with the ignition ON? If "YES", replace the factory inline fuse holder and AGC 15 glass fuse. I recommend upgrading to a 20-amp mini-ANL fuse and holder to help alleviate a repeat failure. If "NO", replace the high blower relay, then recheck the high blower function (an underlying problem still could exist with the inline fuse holder). Before replacing the high blower relay, read the Technical Article, "Blower Motor Relay info (Keeps blowing fuses)." Edit: The foregoing assumes the relay control wiring is intact and properly connected. Before replacing the high blower relay because it doesn't 'click', use your test light to validate control power to the relay coil via the 18-gauge orange wire from the blower switch. You should also confirm that the relay coil is effectively grounded via the connected 18-gauge black wire. 15
Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by doneebaker on February 16, 2026, 06:12:21 pm »I checked them tonight and the motor does spin up on the blue and green wire, but does not on the orange wire.
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Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by bd on February 15, 2026, 03:08:17 pm »As a WAG that dangling orange wire is for a different model application and should NOT be connected to anything on your truck.
Unplug the blower switch and jump the brown wire to the light green OR light blue wire in the blower switch connector. With the ignition switched ON, does the blower motor spin at Medium or Medium High speed, respectively? Now, jump the brown wire to the orange wire in the blower switch connector. With the ignition ON, does the blower spin up to High Speed? 17
Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control« Last post by doneebaker on February 15, 2026, 02:23:59 pm »Thanks for the reply. So I probed the brown wire and it does have power with switch on. The orange wire does not. The orange wire in question is the one on the bottom right of the diagram. Connects to 52 , 2977253, in the picture. The diagram does not show where that goes to, and that is my question. And yes it is all original factory stuff.
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Performance / Re: Oil additives« Last post by bd on February 15, 2026, 01:19:09 pm »I should add that the BEST oils for any given application shouldn't need any additives!
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Performance / Re: Oil additives« Last post by bd on February 15, 2026, 01:14:37 pm »In reminiscence, with little relevance to the present, I'm sure, I drove a 1969 VW Beetle with a 1835 cc, dual Weber 44 IDF's, Scat 296°, 0.420" lift cam, etc, etc, etc. It was a rolling investment in epic adventures. Extreme engine heat is the nemesis of air-cooled engines like that vintage VW, and extreme measures are taken to mitigate it. Even so, with all the precautions taken and remedies in place, engine internal components are exceptionally stressed due to the severe-duty environment. I used two products in the day (one still available) that provided notable benefits.
The first was Fluoramics Tufoil Engine Treatment, a PTFE-based (Teflon) oil additive. It qualitatively helped reduce engine temperature, extended oil-change intervals, and noticeably improved fuel mileage, although I've retained no quantitative data from that many years ago to defend the claim. In the mind of a hungry college student, the drawback of using the product was its price. The product is still available. The second notable product, which fell out of production decades ago, was Union 76, 20w-50 Graphite engine oil. It was the only oil available at the time (known to me, at least) that could withstand the extreme heat produced by a highly modified VW engine and still provide suitable lubricity w/o breaking down. It was the only oil that prevented galling of valve train rocker shafts, adjusting screws, and valve tips! Its biggest drawback? The graphite component created a filthy black mess with which to contend during oil changes or when leaks occurred. Some people complained that the graphite would plug oil filters. I ran a full flow filter with an external cooler and never experienced that issue in many hard miles. Those were simpler days, loaded with fun and many a trip into the Mojave and Sonoran Deserts, interspersed with coast and high-mountain adventures. ![]() 20
Performance / Re: Oil additives« Last post by RossVE on February 15, 2026, 11:21:21 am »I'm here, been stalking mainly for several years. I generally feel that I don't have enough knowledge to offer input on most subjects and would rather stay quiet than to give incorrect information. But I find this forum to be the most informative (and sometimes entertaining) platform that I've discovered. I'm not a fan of social media as I find it to be full of misinformation and trolls.
And back on the subject, I am very interested in any additive to improve the quality of life of any and all of my projects! Sent from my CPH2583 using Tapatalk |