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« Last post by MY1978 on March 21, 2026, 06:49:10 am »
So, I apparently need high caliber brains to fix this. I went to put the steering wheel back on, after trying to clock it, and I noticed that the steering wheel was on upside down, but because the wheels were turned slightly out. So I started the truck, straightened them all without incident except then the horn would not blow. So I pulled the steering wheel off, removed the locking plate and made sure the cancelling cam was seated correctly. Put everything back together and when I went to hook the battery back up, the horn blew. So AGAIN broke it down to the cancelling cam, AGAIN the horn blew. So I decided to try just putting the cancelling cam and locking plate back in place - and the horn blows. WTH!!! it wasn't doing that when I started it to straighten the wheels. Any thoughts or ideas. Prior to this the horn was fine. I was watching some videos and I will check the horn spring and fuse today. I also have all the parts ready to order in my cart from where I have ordered parts from.
1978 Chevrolet, C10, 350,
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« Last post by VileZambonie on March 19, 2026, 05:07:40 pm »
Support the engine, lefty loosey, righty tighty. lift the engine enough to remove and replace.
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« Last post by bd on March 17, 2026, 09:13:30 pm »
Forgot to update y’all ...
...I got everything wrapped after checking new continuity and decided to put a ford style solenoid on the firewall. I debated on this, but I’m not lying about those dang exhaust manifolds. There’s no room for anything and I didn’t want to chance pinching or burning my new fix, so I did the dastardly deed of modifying and using a ford idea on the ol square...
Thank you all for the help!!
I considered this very modification on multiple occasions. Exhaust heat baking the starter would result in labored cranking or no-crank situations. But I found that even minor exhaust leaks from the manifold junction to the cylinder head or a cracked manifold was nearly always the culprit. The solution was to mitigate the leaks by installing new manifolds and bolts, using torquing compound on the threads, the proper torque, and a smear of high temperature copper silicone sealer on the flanges. To remedy heat baking the starter solenoid, I installed a factory heat shield. Cooked wires has always been a problem. The solution there was to replace damaged wires using wire with SXL rated insulation, firmly crimping then soldering terminal ends with 60/40 rosin core solder, and finishing off with marine grade, dual-wall, adhesive lined, polyolefin heat shrink. Foil wrapped, fiberglass split-loom was used around the wire bundle to ensure protection from subsequent radiant heat. Glad you found your solution.
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« Last post by Chanman09 on March 16, 2026, 11:27:16 pm »
Forgot to update y’all
I went out to the truck and started checking grounds. I took a flappy wheel and hit the alternator bracket for the main ground and also the frame and block in the front part of the engine bay.
I jacked up the truck to follow my red cable to the starter and checked it was clear of any pinches or frays. It was fine.
I then went to checking starter connections.
Poor little fusible links fell off in my hand. They looked like drowned worms when you fish without catching anything. They’re from 1986. And they sat in a field from 1996 until 2023. And I’ve dropped and replaced the starter more times than I’d like to remember over my tenure due to numerous reasons, but the main one being exhaust manifold problems.
I got up top and pulled the metal tube that houses all those wires that go down there and checked continuity between the new end if the wires and the junction area where the wires parted ways.
I got out the ol soldering iron and shrink wrap and found the right gauge wire to make new fusible links. The tricky one was the Y shaped link that was just a pain to get soldered solid. I needed an extra hand.
I got everything wrapped after checking new continuity and decided to put a ford style solenoid on the firewall. I debated on this, but I’m not lying about those dang exhaust manifolds. There’s no room for anything and I didn’t want to chance pinching or burning my new fix, so I did the dastardly deed of modifying and using a ford idea on the ol square. I know…I know. Please limit your vegetables being thrown to soft tomatoes.
I double checked that everything worked a few times and mounted the wires in a more eyeball friendly manner and haven’t had any issues yet.
I got a newer, larger fire extinguisher to carry in the cab, and I’m glad the old links did their job.
Thank you all for the help!!
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« Last post by fiddler on March 12, 2026, 01:27:10 pm »
So you think the fuel should just flow out of the fuel line when I disconnect the fuel pump at the engine?
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« Last post by zucchi on March 10, 2026, 09:10:27 am »
There's usually a screen on the opening end of the pickup tube inside the tank. Remove the sending unit/pickup tube assembly and examine.
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« Last post by roger97338 on March 10, 2026, 12:02:18 am »
I have a broken motor mount I need to replace, on the passenger side. The bolt that holds the two pieces of the motor mount assembly is absent. I'm just assuming the rubber part of the mount has been damaged by a broken bolt wobbling around in it for who knows how long.
Last time I replaced motor mounts, the engine was out of the vehicle. Easy peasy. Not so this time. Now I have all the things in my way.
So I'm looking for advice. Things I should do. Things I absolutely should NOT do.
Any input is appreciated.
75 Chevy 2wd; 350/TH400; lowered 3/4; headers; no a/c; not sure what else you might need to know.
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« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 10:22:47 pm »
the power wire to the heater is brown per the wiring diagram. The orange wire may be for your cigarette lighter. At least it's close on the diagram. In that your fan turns slowly you have power going to it. The old trucks had a constant low fan output whenever the ignition is on. Kind of a fresh air thing. Anyway, the fan wire ties to the resistor pack which is inside the AC box and easily removable with just two screws if memory serves. The speed switch switches in more and more circuits from those resistors, which look like little heater wires, but they don't get hot. Just low resistance resistors.
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« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 08:39:30 pm »
I have a titled 1974 Chevy c10 stepside. I say titled because it has so many replacement junkyard parts on it. I think the engine is from a 1976. Anyway, it had an intermittent fuel starvation problem so rather than fool with it I just pointed the parts cannon at it and replaced all of the filters and the fuel pump. In the process I prepared to plug the input to the fuel pump when I removed the hose. But no fuel came out. I put some air pressure on the top of the tank, and fuel comes out of the fuel line, but it doesn't free flow. Appears not to be an issue, but can anybody tell me why that is? Thinking maybe some kind of fuel line routing or special valve? Oh the intermittent appears to be solved, but... it's an intermittent so it's going to take a few days to call it fixed....
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« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 04:16:39 pm »
Thanks much I will order one.
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