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« Last post by jeremy.farlow on September 10, 2025, 10:36:45 pm »
So I finally got around to throwing up my own "shingle" as they say:    The whale has been doing really well. There's still things to tidy up here and there, but I've put almost 13k miles on it since the new transmission. It's better everywhere than I really expected it to be. Sometimes I even forget it's 6000 pounds and thirty feet long. Still, the truck leaves hard enough to surprise a lot of people. Sometimes even me. Be safe Jeremy
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« Last post by zucchi on September 10, 2025, 11:19:04 am »
I acknowledge this topic is two-months old, nevertheless, I'd like to put in my two-cents.
The first question I always ask is, "Is something wrong with the carb you have?" Like the old saying, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Unless your QJ is physically damaged beyond repair, e.g., hit with a mallet, it’s best to stick with it. Your car’s linkage, fittings, intake, choke, etc., are all designed to work in harmony with the QJ. Furthermore, as already mentioned, the carb that came with your truck is calibrated for your truck.
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« Last post by Captkaos on September 10, 2025, 09:28:41 am »
Generally speaking every component for the engine mounting and trans mounting will need to be transfered.
The front and rear suspension mounting will also need to be transfered over.
Basically, in short without granular detail, you are going to strip both frames down to the frame rails and transfer them over being mindful of location
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« Last post by dc7432 on September 08, 2025, 09:28:22 pm »
Our 87 V20 (4wd) frame needs to be replaced and we found a 87 C20 (2wd) frame. Looking for advice on what modifications the C20 will need to convert to 4wd. Our plan is to use everything on the V20 just need a frame, thanks in advance.
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« Last post by JohnnyPopper on September 06, 2025, 11:37:50 pm »
"Too wonderful for me to understand"- King David of Israel... Hope it works out for you bro. 
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« Last post by 1980K20 on September 06, 2025, 11:23:30 am »
Stopped by yesterday. The bearing in the torque converter failed. It was new, good reputable brand, same as what he’s replacing it with. “Sometimes you just get unlucky” :-(
All the metal coming out was grinding down the forward shaft (i don’t know proper names). But this shaft was loose, not pressed securely into the forward drum. New drum and shaft of course. Clutches were not burned but he’s replacing them anyways so it’s known to him.
I get a three year warranty on the work.
Trying to fix the leaks. The 4x4 switch leaks. No replacement. Can’t just put a bolt on it, requires detent with funky threads. Will probably have to epoxy the heck out of it and cross fingers. Suggestions anyone?
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« Last post by Chevygold on September 06, 2025, 10:54:17 am »
Fitted the new plugs yesterday and now running fine, first thing I noticed once warmed up was I had to screw in the idle screws 1/4 turn to get the idle mixture right again with the AFR, don't know if it's all in the mind but I think the exhaust note has changed as well.
I'm still trapped behind my MOHO so haven't been for a road test yet but will update once I've been out.
Graham
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« Last post by bd on September 06, 2025, 08:17:09 am »
Reference and familiarize yourself with the diagnostic charts that I previously posted. Verify perfect power and ground continuity to the ECM. Check continuity of the DK GRN/WHT wire between the ECM and fuel pump relay. Clean the harness connections to the ECM using some DeoxIT D5 or CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, etc. You may need to very carefully re-tension the terminal connections to the ECM and verify that none of the terminals are distorted, broken, or heavily corroded.
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« Last post by Yellowcat on September 05, 2025, 11:41:27 pm »
The fuel pump will not run when I put B+ to the pigtail when engine is not running. When I grind the engine10 to 15 seconds to finally get it running I probe the red and white striped pigtail wire it is hot. I posted a video of this. I probed the green/white when engine us running and it does not illuminate the test light. https://youtube.com/shorts/v3nxZngrtwk?si=O65XhmUublzyfdTf
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« Last post by Chevygold on September 04, 2025, 09:41:41 am »
Completed cleaning the plug threads in the heads yesyerday, replacement plugs arrived but they weren't taper seats as shown in the description so have ordered different ones now which should be correct, Champion RS12YC, some of the plugs I found were $15 each with some even more so these will have to do for now, not a big fan of Champion but maybe they're better now?
Graham
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