Recent Posts

11

Electrical / Re: TH350C orange test connector use?

« Last post by Scaryfastatx on June 25, 2026, 11:18:01 am »

You're reading it wrong. Key on 12v to the solenoid. The brake switch or low vacuum switch can interrupt the circuit open. The pressure switch in the valve body grounds the solenoid when the appropriate pressure is met and applies the torque converter clutch. If you have a test light bulb installed on the test connector you can hit the go pedal and see it go out, let off see it come on, hit the brakes, see it go out, let off the brakes, on and so forth. 

AH ok perfect

I thought the circuits inside the transmission would also play into the test light turning on or off, but its solely checking the:

• Vacuum is within range
• Brake are not pressed

12

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: Gas gauge issues

« Last post by VileZambonie on June 24, 2026, 05:35:41 pm »

Do the same thing, check your connections at the valve and switch it, see what happens.

13

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: Gas gauge issues

« Last post by JohnnyPopper on June 24, 2026, 04:57:41 pm »

Thx VZ.

I did unplug it and cleaned it with DeoxIT. No change.

Common for the valve switch to go bad internally?

14

Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension / Re: Steering shaft lower bushing/bearing assembly

« Last post by frotosride on June 24, 2026, 06:11:30 am »

As long as it's seated and the snap ring is in the grooves with the notch lined up you're golden.

Yes, the ultimate goal...
Having done this simple process now, the recommendation is to do them separate after cleaning up the shaft and removing any burs. It wouldn't be difficult to assemble them first but definitely annoying to try and slid them on the shaft and getting the bushing in the right slots without damaging it.

15

General Discussion / Re: Come get them!!

« Last post by frotosride on June 24, 2026, 06:02:37 am »

If you weren't 924 miles away I would love that R10 for parts.

This is the one I'd keep if I had the space and time to turn it into what I want.

If you weren't 924 miles away I would love that R10 for parts.

Same! Put them on FB Marketplace. They are each worth at least $500 buckaroos or part them out.

That's a last resort, I wanted to let anyone here, especially those that have helped me, have a chance before I dealt with marketplace shenanigans.

So with that I'm going to keep it here for a few days maybe even a couple weeks just in case someone's trying to come up with some plans.

16

Fuel Systems and Drivability / Re: Gas gauge issues

« Last post by VileZambonie on June 23, 2026, 04:57:08 pm »

Are you talking about your chatgpt relay that doesn't exist? Unplug and replug in the tank switch connector. Quick easy way to see if you just have a bad connection there. Very common for the tank switching valve to be the culprit. You will need to bust out your meter to confirm.

17

Electrical / Re: TCC lockup pin location

« Last post by VileZambonie on June 23, 2026, 04:54:26 pm »

Terminator as in Holley?

As in Arnold

18

Electrical / Re: Dash brake light

« Last post by VileZambonie on June 23, 2026, 04:50:18 pm »

See image

19

Electrical / Re: TH350C orange test connector use?

« Last post by VileZambonie on June 23, 2026, 04:48:01 pm »

You're reading it wrong. Key on 12v to the solenoid. The brake switch or low vacuum switch can interrupt the circuit open. The pressure switch in the valve body grounds the solenoid when the appropriate pressure is met and applies the torque converter clutch. If you have a test light bulb installed on the test connector you can hit the go pedal and see it go out, let off see it come on, hit the brakes, see it go out, let off the brakes, on and so forth. 

20

Electrical / Re: Dash brake light

« Last post by MY1978 on June 23, 2026, 04:39:49 pm »

Thanks.  So I do not need to shimmy under the truck.  Nice.  I am so afraid I will break it when I unplug it because EVERYTHING is old on this truck.  Wish me luck.