Recent Posts

11

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: bad vibration

« Last post by VileZambonie on August 31, 2026, 05:19:29 pm »

Time for a tune up 

12

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: bad vibration

« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 31, 2026, 04:07:06 pm »

Are these bad? Clean, replace??

Sent from my SM-S942U1 using Tapatalk

13

Steering Columns / Re: Help with Column Shifter

« Last post by zieg85 on August 31, 2026, 03:54:27 pm »

Check the condition of the cab mounts.  If the cab is sagging that messes with the whole adjustment.

14

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: bad vibration

« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 30, 2026, 08:54:04 pm »

It's not the torque converter. Pull the plugs, check the cap and rotor.

Ok, will do!

15

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: bad vibration

« Last post by VileZambonie on August 30, 2026, 07:06:02 pm »

It's not the torque converter. Pull the plugs, check the cap and rotor.

16

Engine/Drivetrain / bad vibration

« Last post by philo_beddoe on August 29, 2026, 12:36:04 pm »

Check the basics, vacuum advance connected? No vacuum leaks? Plug wires clean at the connections? Need a tune up? Etc

All basics are good, carb is fine, no vac leaks, timing is perfect, vac adv. is good, choke is perfect,,,all is pointing to torque conv.

During acceleration the vehicle is smooth as glass, the moment I come to a stop when I get down to 20 mph and below, you feel the shaky chuggy low idle, and of course when stationary and in gear is worse. The moment I give it gas, smooth as can be. Same with reving it in park or neut.

You’d never know there is a problem above 20 mph. We changed out tranny fluid with new filter today, no change.

We called a guy who knows classics very well, he mentioned everything VZ mentioned. And agrees about the torque conv.

Any thoughts? Thanks for the input..

17

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: bad vibration

« Last post by VileZambonie on August 29, 2026, 05:28:08 am »

Check the basics, vacuum advance connected? No vacuum leaks? Plug wires clean at the connections? Need a tune up? Etc

18

Steering Columns / Re: Help with Column Shifter

« Last post by bd on August 28, 2026, 04:37:09 pm »

The small hinge pin that retains the auto trans shift lever in the column may be dislodged, loose or worn out.  Pin looseness at the lever insertion into the top of the column can cause improper deflection of the neutral safety switch lower on the column.

19

Steering Columns / Re: Help with Column Shifter

« Last post by Shifty on August 28, 2026, 03:39:22 pm »

Take a quick peek at the mechanical arm as it protrudes from the transmission, the cable end is possibly worn and sloppy. 

20

Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: A/C advice needed

« Last post by bd on August 28, 2026, 02:59:28 pm »

You haven't provided enough information for a reliable answer.  Hence, I recommend as a first step that you establish the actual existing condition of the system and major components.  For example:

• Does the system presently contain any residual refrigerant charge?
  
• If the system is empty of refrigerant, will it retain >29" Hg of vacuum drawn by a proper HVAC vacuum pump?
  
• Is the sight glass clean and clear or cloudy and dark?
  
• Are the Schrader service valves clean and dry or oily?  Are the caps installed?
  
• Is the compressor noisy due to a definite bearing failure or is it just low on charge?  Perhaps the drive belt isn't properly tensioned or needs replacement.
  
• Is the compressor clutch air gap excessive or oily?
  
• Is there evidence of oil seepage from any hoses, connections, the compressor clutch area, or "visually accessible" major components?
  
• Are the condenser cooling fins in good shape with unrestricted air flow, or laid over and plugged with debris?
  

I wouldn't replace the compressor, condenser or evaporator without good reason.  Visual removal and inspection of the orifice tube and screen will tell you a lot about compressor internal condition, accumulator desiccant condition, and general system contamination, depending on the debris trapped by the filter screen and whether it has a 'muddy' appearance.

The preceding comments aside, regardless of whether major components are replaced, in the scenario that you described, a proper flush using compatible solvent, new o-rings, orifice tube, Schrader valves, and accumulator, followed by the correct amount of fresh ester oil (assuming that you reuse the original compressor), IMHO, is standard minimum procedure.  Replace major components only as needed.  Others' opinions may vary.