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« Last post by zieg85 on November 04, 2025, 06:13:25 pm »
TH350 with a 9" tail shaft should have been in there if it was always an automatic.
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« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on November 04, 2025, 05:14:01 pm »
Can't lie, i learned a sway bar was also called a center link looking at the 80s books. my dumb dumb moment. im looking at the diagram scratching my head like, huh? thats a sway bar?
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« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on November 04, 2025, 05:12:30 pm »
Rich, i cant even lie. its a lot of $%^& im tryna cover and not mess up. im praying all my parts are right, i triple checked before ordering. researched all i can. worrying any and everything that could happen. just kinda schitz'ng a little bit. I always have come here, this is the only place I really known.
Im gon hop back on the videos, im at pitman-idler arm install portion, followed by the steering gear. Praying I don't have any cracks at the frame where the gear mounts. Sheesh.... I'm excited though. I'm gonna shed some tears. Especially with the new rims and tires/stance
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« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on November 04, 2025, 05:06:11 pm »
BD I got the 1st 2. From here. Was in em last night. This is what I have compiled already and from Gemini.
Top is Gemini, bottom is what i've compiled. Different stuff.
Maybe what I'm asking is what I have so far, does anything look off?
gemini:
Upper Control Arm crossshaft Nuts 70 ft-lbsMay be higher for custom/aftermarket parts.
Lower Control Arm Pivot Bolts/Nuts90 - 100 ft-lbs (Tighten fully at ride height)Tighten initially, then final torque with the vehicle's weight on the suspension (at ride height) to prevent bushing preload damage.
Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut 50 - 85 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns with a castellation on the nut. Do not back off.
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut 80 - 100 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns with a castellation on the nut. Do not back off.
Tie Rod End Nut 35 - 55 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns. Do not back off.
Tie Rod End Jam Nut (Sleeve) 50 - 55 ft-lbsAfter setting toe adjustment.
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 15 - 20 ft-lbsTypically a smaller nut on the stem.
Shock Absorber Lower Mount 50 - 65 ft-lbsBolt connecting to the lower control arm
Wheel Lug Nuts 100 ft-lbs(Always check your wheel type, e.g., steel vs. aluminum, and stud size.)
My compiled info from youtube videos, forum searches
Front End Rebuild
Upper(50 ft lbs)/Lower ball joints(90 ftlbs)
1a. With control arms removed, clean, prime, paint(blue)
Control arm cross shaft end nuts 100 ft lbs 1 ⅝ (should be able to move the cross shaft by hand with some effort) 2 HOLES SHOULD BE FACING FRAME
DO NOT MESS UP OUTSIDE CASING FOR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS.
Inner/Outer tie rod ends 41 ft lbs
Tie Rod Adjusting sleeves ?
Idler arm to frame 25 ft lbs
u bolts 85 ft lbs
shock to frame 140 ft lbs
Polyurethane control arm bushings (cross-shaft nut 115 ft lbs)
Pitman Arm 1 5/16 to gear box 186 ft/lbs, gear box to link 41 ft lbs
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« Last post by Rough75C20 on November 04, 2025, 04:56:57 pm »
Hello,
Im waiting on a transmission to be rebuilt, but can no longer wait as the place Im storing it needs it moved. I dont have the transmission and the guy rebuilding it wont contact me. The guy probably stole it. Either way, I need to figure out how to know what th350 I need. Are there different versions? I have the two piece driveshaft and it is a 2wd long bed with a 305 engine. How do I tell?
Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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« Last post by bd on November 04, 2025, 03:06:32 pm »
Everything you are requesting should be in the 1987 GM Factory Service Manuals posted in the Tech Forum. They are PDF scans of the GM paper manuals: Service ManualUnit Repair ManualWiring ManualEmissions and Driveability Manual
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« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on November 04, 2025, 02:12:24 pm »
PS I did AI on Google and several of those I know aren't accurate, so I did look there also prior. It kept referring to 67-72 for alot of things
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« Last post by 87ChevyR10 on November 04, 2025, 02:06:57 pm »
As some of you may have seen on my other older thread about going and getting my baby.... well, its going down. Details coming together. It's a no tow ALL 700 MI all the way back ride.
So I'm gonna pull the front end in GA. I have multiple Haynes/Chiltons on our trucks, but they are IN GA.... IN THE TRUCK . So i can't refer to much and i didnt grab anything available on IA as those of you who know, they recently were pretty much stripped of everything not independent or already paid for.
I am replacing and need torque specs for things not listed in the .PDFs available here. I've had those for years and have pulled some of the stuff already. Even if i have some of the specs, i would rather someone who has the actual book who can say for sure
Doing
Upper/Lower ball joints
Inner/Outer tie rod ends
Tie Rod Adjusting sleeves
Idler arm
Polyurethane control arm bushings
Pitman arm
Steering gear
Front shocks
Also working on some of the brake system. Installing calipers and new brake hoses. If you happen to run across those, I'd appreciate it.
Y'all.... I'm excited. Scared. Trying not to catastrophize. Already learned a lot refreshing reading manuals for everything I've bought(It's all in GA w/my baby) like I have to drill a hole apparently in the frame with the rear sway bar. And I have to drill out with a 5/8" bit on the Belltech front sway bar to accomodate the links. So its been a long time accruing diagrams and videos. Been watching old Brothers episodes and taking me back. Watched the control arm bushing episode several times. DOES NOT LOOK FUN any way you cut it.
Thank you for any help you can give.
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« Last post by bd on October 31, 2025, 11:08:05 am »
As of this morning, Friday (10/31/25), the Forum Boards are restored!
HAPPY HALLOWEEN ! ! ! ! BOO! HA HA HA
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« Last post by lilkiduno on October 31, 2025, 10:01:17 am »
Bd, as per usual, you are the man! Thank You
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