Recent Posts

11

Engine/Drivetrain / Motor Mounts

« Last post by roger97338 on March 10, 2026, 12:02:18 am »

I have a broken motor mount I need to replace, on the passenger side. The bolt that holds the two pieces of the motor mount assembly is absent. I'm just assuming the rubber part of the mount has been damaged by a broken bolt wobbling around in it for who knows how long.

Last time I replaced motor mounts, the engine was out of the vehicle. Easy peasy. Not so this time. Now I have all the things in my way.

So I'm looking for advice. Things I should do. Things I absolutely should NOT do.

Any input is appreciated.

75 Chevy 2wd; 350/TH400; lowered 3/4; headers; no a/c; not sure what else you might need to know.

12

Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning (HVAC) / Re: 74 c10 hvac control

« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 10:22:47 pm »

the power wire to the heater is brown per the wiring diagram.  The orange wire may be for your cigarette lighter.  At least it's close on the diagram.  In that your fan turns slowly you have power going to it.  The old trucks had a constant low fan output whenever the ignition is on.  Kind of a fresh air thing.  Anyway, the fan wire ties to the resistor pack which is inside the AC box and easily removable with just two screws if memory serves.  The speed switch switches in more and more circuits from those resistors, which look like little heater wires, but they don't get hot.  Just low resistance resistors.   

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Fuel Systems and Drivability / Why doesn't fuel flow from the tank?

« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 08:39:30 pm »

I have a titled 1974 Chevy c10 stepside.  I say titled because it has so many replacement junkyard parts on it.  I think the engine is from a 1976.  Anyway, it had an intermittent fuel starvation problem so rather than fool with it I just pointed the parts cannon at it and replaced all of the filters and the fuel pump.  In the process I prepared to plug the input to the fuel pump when I removed the hose.  But no fuel came out.  I put some air pressure on the top of the tank, and fuel comes out of the fuel line, but it doesn't free flow.  Appears not to be an issue, but can anybody tell me why that is?  Thinking maybe some kind of fuel line routing or special valve?  Oh the intermittent appears to be solved, but... it's an intermittent so it's going to take a few days to call it fixed....

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Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission dip stick

« Last post by fiddler on March 09, 2026, 04:16:39 pm »

Thanks much I will order one.

15

Engine/Drivetrain / Re: Transmission dip stick

« Last post by VileZambonie on March 09, 2026, 04:00:48 pm »

768023 Pioneer

16

Engine/Drivetrain / Transmission dip stick

« Last post by fiddler on March 08, 2026, 02:53:32 pm »

I have a titled 1974 Chevy c10 stepside.  I say titled because it has so many replacement junkyard parts on it.  I think the engine is from a 1976.  So the cap is no longer on the top of the transmission dip stick and i can't tell how to get a replacement dipstick or how far to insert for a level measurement.  Can anybody out there tell me how to measure a dipstick for length?  From the tip to the cap?  Or tip to bottom of the finger loop, or maybe the top of the finger loop?  The transmission is a th350 as identified by pan bolt pattern.  The engine is a 350.  The instrument cluster is from a 76 I think and uses a voltmeter instead of an ammeter for battery charging indication.  Could be that the dipstick for any year 350s setup could work.  Anybody know??  Thanks in advance

17

Electrical / Re: Fusible link or grounds?

« Last post by fiddler on March 08, 2026, 02:40:38 pm »

Start by removing the battery cables from the battery and thoroughly cleaning the battery posts and the cable connections inside.  In that you had intermittent contact jiggling the battery cables the problem would seem to point in that direction.  Use a wire brush on the inside of the cables.  Not sure what kind of battery you are using, but what you are describing sounds like a corroded battery cable issue.

18

Electrical / Re: TH350C orange test connector use?

« Last post by Scaryfastatx on March 03, 2026, 01:48:30 pm »

Just monitor the OEM engagement

I'm hoping that I can get it working for the TH350 so when I go to a 700R4 it's working nicely

19

Electrical / Re: TH350C orange test connector use?

« Last post by bd on March 03, 2026, 01:29:38 pm »

Are you attempting to control TCC engagement manually or just monitor the OEM engagement protocol?

20

Electrical / Re: TH350C orange test connector use?

« Last post by Scaryfastatx on March 03, 2026, 12:17:24 pm »

For what year model truck are you seeking an answer?

For a 1983 C10 with MV4 (350C) transmission, the orange test connector is used to monitor and verify when 12-volt accessory power is supplied to the transmission TCC circuit through the service brake [applied] switch and low engine vacuum (i.e., high engine load) switch.  There is also a minimum road speed limit switch inside the transmission.  All of the described switches are connected in series with the TCC solenoid.  See diagram.

Thanks for the reply, it's an 81, I think I have everything hooked up correctly according to your diagram

Only difference I see is my 12v supply to the brake switch is pink

My truck had cruise control originally, if that changes anything

I didn't check the brake switch for continuity, will check that next

But was wanting to put a light on the test port to see when I should be engaging the lockup

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