Author Topic: Holley v. Edelbrock?  (Read 5796 times)

elmono

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Holley v. Edelbrock?
« on: January 17, 2003, 02:59:00 PM »
Holley 600cfm 0804 w/ Edelbrock 2601 Air-Gap intake...or...Edelbrock 1406 w/ Edelbrock 2701 EPS intake?


elmono

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forgot to add this...
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2003, 03:00:00 PM »
More info on the truck at "K1500 upgrades" by elmono.


Offline 84 silverado

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edelbrock/holley, etc, etc....
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2003, 03:58:00 PM »
First of all, for what you're trying to do the airgap intake is a waste of cash. For the small amount of HP you'll get over a regular base intake it's just not worth it. The Edelbrock performer and the Weiand 8004 are within about 4hp of each other on a dyno. Both are super good for low end torque and hp up well into the 350-375 range. As far as carbs go it's personal preference. Both the 1850-3 holley and the edelbrock 2106 are great carbs. I like both so whatever one is the best price I'd go with. Both tune easily and are pretty much trouble free now that holley started using blowout protection for the power valves. The edelbrock bolts up to a spread bore or square bore intake pretty well if I remember right but to use the holley you'll need the adapter plate/gasket(they make it both ways) to fit as the 1850 is a square bore only carb. I have a new weiand intake(dyno time only) and a edelbrock 2106 electric choker sitting in the garage gathering dust right now. Sold my project and have parts in excess now!!!!! Good luck with the motor, Bill


elmono

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thanks
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2003, 04:47:00 PM »
Thanks for the input Bill.


Offline bored and stroked

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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2003, 12:32:00 PM »
Carb choice dosen't really matter, whatever you like. As for manifolds, the EPS all the way, unless your willing to step up to the RPM [which you should]


Offline 84 silverado

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carbs and intakes....
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2003, 02:41:00 PM »
just for curiosity why do you point to the performer rpm or other intakes that do less down low? If you look at the torque curve for that intake it doesn't even start working well until you're above 3,000 rpm. It breaths fair down low at best. For torque and low end where a heavy 4wd needs it the standard performer performs better and costs less(we all can use that) If you're going to always try to out-breath what little motor there is you'll never make any decent dyno numbers. Why put a set of big chief heads on a stock 396?? The intake matches the carb, matches the cam, matches the heads, etc, etc. Just my side of the fence....... sorry:rolleyes  


Offline 79SilveradoK30

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dealing on intakes
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2003, 09:40:00 PM »
I too was going to go for the RPM Air-Gap intake, but I like to have money for the rest of the truck. To keep costs low, I'm keeping the stock heads (which will recieve plenty of porting and polishing, along with new valve train parts), using a hydraulic lifter cam instead of a solid lifter, and an Edelbrock Performer EPS intake with a 1" divided spacer, instead of a pricey Air-Gap.


elmono

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Thanks...
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2003, 03:17:00 AM »
Your experience makes this a site I'll use when in doubt, thanks for the input. As for the intake, everything I've heard/read tells me to stay in the idle-5500 RPM range (stock cam and heads). Is there something I'm missing?


Offline bored and stroked

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« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2003, 02:59:00 PM »
The RPM provides more hp and torque then a normal performer above 1500rpm. Below that the performer wins. How often does your engine spend time in power mode below 1500rpm? It shouldnt, ever. The torque convertor stalls at 1800rpm stock. Even at this point the RPM wins. The only reason for a performer intake is emissions equipment. I have yet to see a dyno comparison of the EPS vs RPM, so I cant comment on that manifold.


Offline bored and stroked

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« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2003, 03:05:00 PM »
79SilveradoK30- the air gap is a marketing ploy [sp?]
It dosent provide any real gains except on the performer because on that manifold it raises the intake runners, which lengthend them. They needed the extra length and so gained power. Ever wonder why the EPS came out? :D

Porting and polishing along with rebuilding heads will usually cost MORE then buying a set of decent new heads. Pro lightning [action] heads: $699 a set complete, 2.02/1.6 valves and 200cc intakes. They also have other intake port volumes and valve sizes.:hat

A hydro cam should cost more then a solid. Hydro lifters are much more complicated to produce and so should cost more. Although most people use hydros so maybe they are cheaper since they are so mass produced?


Offline 79SilveradoK30

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« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2003, 05:50:00 PM »
That's the odd thing, with the cam company I'm going with for my truck's engine (Iskenderian), a hydraulic cam + lifters is the same price as a solid cam + lifters. I'm going with a hydraulic cam (quite a big one at that, going by duration), mainly so I don't have to frequently set valve lash.


Offline 84 silverado

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cams and intakes.....
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2003, 02:16:00 PM »
bored and stroked is right about the head work. It's cheaper anymore to buy a set of good, production heads than doing your own. Most the companies that build these heads know where to remove metal, what the "correct" cc application is for your motor and can do it better than you can in your own garage without the headaches. Also, if you DO get a set of heads or even build your won, stay away from polishing the ports, just clean it up and do a good port matching. Polishing will hurt more than help under 5,000 RPM's or so. And another thing, if your going to run alot of duration, get a good converter and I hope you have the compression to feed it. Alot of duration will kill the bottom end especially with a set of big valved heads. Do some more research and be sure where you want to run the motor "most" of the time!!! You'll be glad ya did........