Author Topic: upgrade advice?  (Read 2442 times)

Offline phaon1

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upgrade advice?
« on: February 01, 2003, 04:44:00 PM »
I have been planning the next performance upgrade to my truck and I'm looking for some advice.  I have a zz4 with the GM HOT cam installed.  I would like my upgrades to give me the most power while loosing the least mileage. I'm looking for some advice here on what kinds of HP, torque, and mileage numbers I should get with each upgrade.  Right now I'm putting out about 380HP at 5800RPM and about 415lbs of torque at 3800RPM.
Here are the upgrades I have planned -
1.  A good set of 1.6 ratio roller rocker arms.  Any suggestions on brand name appreciated.
2.  A new intake manifold.  The ZZ4 intake is good, but not great.  I have my eye on the Edelbrock Performer RPM (1500 - 6500).  My redline is 6000RPM now and would probably be about 6300 with the rockers, so I figured this was a good choice.
3.  A new carb.  My Edelbrock Performer 1406 is ok, but not great.  I'm looking at a Barry Grant Speed Demon.  Every indication is that this carb with the new intake would be almost as good as fuel injection for a LOT cheaper.
Here is my plan, any advice is welcome.

Chris

1981 GMC K10 75K miles on original parts (what few are left)
Exterior Mods
- Royal Blue chameleon paint
- 15X11 Craiger chrome wheels
Interior Mods
- B&M Light Truck Mega Shifter
- Grant steering wheel
- 6 Auto Meter Ultra Light gauges in dash, 2 on a-pillar
- Keyless entry
- Billet dash and door trim
- Solid headboard with four built in speakers
- Sony Mobil ES CD Deck, MTX truck boxes, Jensen AMP
Drivetrain Mods
- GM Racing ZZ4 Engine with H.O.T. Cam kit, 150 amp alternator, PeteJackson Gear Drive
- Hooker SS headers, 2 1/2" SS exhaust, Dr. Gas x-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers
- K&N X-Stream lid and 14" air cleaner.
- Coan 3000RPM custom built torque converter
- Built-up 700R4 transmission
- Yukon 4.11 gears with titanium pins in stock 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear.
- Eaton heavy duty locker.


Offline bored and stroked

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« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2003, 02:47:00 PM »
I think you have some exellent ideas. The RPM is dam near impossable to beat for average hp and torque and usually for peak numbers too.
No carb is going to be as good as fuel injection unless you go into volecity stacks with small carbs and massive amounts of tuning. The demon is bascially just a better holley carb. I had one, very nice, very $$$$. It would be an improvment over the 1406, but will need to be tuned and adjusted more. You deff. need a 750cfm carb on there. With your 600cfm, your ZZ4 dosent even make the claimed 355hp. Thats a rating with 750cfm carbs.
The 1.6 rockers will help some, but you will problably need to open up the slots in the heads so the pushrods dont hit. What size headers are you running? Exaust size?


Offline phaon1

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  • Posts: 29
Re: .
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2003, 06:42:00 AM »
I had a 750 Edelbrock carb, and it was way too much.  There was simply no way I could get it tuned right.  GM actually recommened a 650 Holley.  Everyone I've talked to said that the ZZ4 actually likes the smaller carbs because of their strange vacuum curve.  But I'm sure a new intake would change that, so the Demon would need to be a 750...
I know the 1.6 rockers would work without mods, because GM sells a bolt on set for the ZZ4.  If the aftermarket ones do need head mods, then I'll just buy the GM ones.
Right now I'm running Hooker shorty headers.  I don't remember the headers size, but my exhaust size is 2 3/4 dual with an x-pipe and Flowmasters.  I'll probably change headers and move up to 3" when I go all stainless steel.  That mod is a ways off due to $$$$.
Thanks a lot for the info!

Chris

1981 GMC K10 75K miles on original parts (what few are left)
Exterior Mods
- Royal Blue chameleon paint
- 15X11 Craiger chrome wheels
Interior Mods
- B&M Light Truck Mega Shifter
- Grant steering wheel
- 6 Auto Meter Ultra Light gauges in dash, 2 on a-pillar
- Keyless entry
- Billet dash and door trim
- Solid headboard with four built in speakers
- Sony Mobil ES CD Deck, MTX truck boxes, Jensen AMP
Drivetrain Mods
- GM Racing ZZ4 Engine with H.O.T. Cam kit, 150 amp alternator, PeteJackson Gear Drive
- Hooker SS headers, 2 1/2" SS exhaust, Dr. Gas x-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers
- K&N X-Stream lid and 14" air cleaner.
- Coan 3000RPM custom built torque converter
- Built-up 700R4 transmission
- Yukon 4.11 gears with titanium pins in stock 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear.
- Eaton heavy duty locker.


Offline bored and stroked

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  • Posts: 59
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« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2003, 02:06:00 PM »
Not a prob. Its very possable you might not need to open the heads for the 1.6's. Some engines need too, some dont. I didnt know they made 2 3/4" exaust, but thats perfect for your app. If you went above 350cid[ like a 383, then Id say go for 3". But you really dont need it right now.
I had a carter 750cfm on my stock 99 vortec 350 [300hp, 380lbs/ft] and although it did run rich, I never had any drivability problems. With a 650 on your ZZ4, Id guess its only down to about 345-350hp. Good luck!

[p.s.- a head swap would help a bunch. Vortecs, AFRs, pro action, trick flow G2's, all would up the power level]


Offline oscarone

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rockers
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2003, 02:42:00 PM »
I just put a set of Crane Gold series 1.6 ratio rollor rockers on my 383. ('77 K10)  They made a heck of a difference.  I had a "flat" spot at 2000-2500rpm and they took it right out.  That is with Edelbrock heads and a set of B&M Al. valve covers, 4".  You will probley need the taller valve covers to clear the "polley locks".  They stand pretty tall.  But, they were well worth the money.  Check this out...You can buy Cranes "Blazer" rockers, which, are the same as the gold series and a good $100 less.  The only difference is they don't anodize them gold and don't call them the "gold series".  As far as exhaust it depends on what you use your truck for.  For lower end torque and hp the smaller tubes might be better.  They increase the exhaust gas velocity and help scavenge the cyl.s.  If you operate at higher rpm's most of the time a larger tube might be better.  Do some research before you spend you money.  The Flowmaster x-pipes, from what I have heard, are worth the cash.  I was about to put it in my truck, but, got slammed by the fed's on tax this year.  So, maybe later.  At the least if you run duel exhaust you need a "balance pipe".  Otherwise, your two cyl.  banks will operate at opposing pressures.  


Offline phaon1

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  • Posts: 29
Re: rockers
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2003, 03:23:00 PM »
OK, so I like the advice I've heard so far.  The surprise here for me is that I thought my ZZ4 heads were quite good, but maybe not >D  ?  If they really do need replaced to get good power, then I'm asking for some more advice on what to replace them with.
First off, I'd like to stay away from the Vortec.  I have to do this upgrade in stages ($$$), so I want a standard 350 intake that I can use until I get the heads.  Since I'm going with an Edelbrock intake, would some matching heads be a good choice?
Also, my ZZ4 heads have offset spark plugs.  I had to buy Hooker SS shorty headers to clear the weird heads.  I like my headers, so do any of you know if these headers will work on heads with a normal plug pattern?

Chris

1981 GMC K10 75K miles on original parts (what few are left)
Exterior Mods
- Royal Blue chameleon paint
- 15X11 Craiger chrome wheels
Interior Mods
- B&M Light Truck Mega Shifter
- Grant steering wheel
- 6 Auto Meter Ultra Light gauges in dash, 2 on a-pillar
- Keyless entry
- Billet dash and door trim
- Solid headboard with four built in speakers
- Sony Mobil ES CD Deck, MTX truck boxes, Jensen AMP
Drivetrain Mods
- GM Racing ZZ4 Engine with H.O.T. Cam kit, 150 amp alternator, PeteJackson Gear Drive
- Hooker SS headers, 2 1/2" SS exhaust, Dr. Gas x-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers
- K&N X-Stream lid and 14" air cleaner.
- Coan 3000RPM custom built torque converter
- Built-up 700R4 transmission
- Yukon 4.11 gears with titanium pins in stock 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rear.
- Eaton heavy duty locker.


Offline bored and stroked

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« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2003, 12:24:00 PM »
Your heads are the old L98 corvette aluminum heads. They are better then stock smog heads, but not as good as vortecs. Why stay away from vortecs? Your already getting a intake, why not get the vortec intake, then wait for the heads and swap everything on at once?

If your really stuck on no vortecs, then first decide 1: how much you wanna spend and 2: if you want iron or aluminum.