Author Topic: shredded fuel pump  (Read 600 times)

Offline BillWill

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shredded fuel pump
« on: April 06, 2019, 08:12:57 PM »
so I am finally starting to have time and money to work on my project truck and as I get to work through all the basics I suddenly was not able to start my truck.  I worked my way backwards from carb to the fuel pump and found the issue.. my fuel pump is destroyed and now I have metal shavings everywhere inside the engine block so I'm needing some advice on how to clean this up so I can put in a new pump and get going again..

86 Chevy K10
305/700r4/NP208
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2019, 06:26:15 AM »
Take the plate off, clean everything out and inspect the area. Drain the oil and change the filter. What broke on the fuel pump?
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Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2019, 12:07:41 PM »
Looks like it was just old and the pivot rod maybe started to wobble loose and ripped out of housing?  I'm just guessing here on what I'm seeing.

Is there anything special I need to do when I put this back together?  not finding much online regarding that extra plate or if I need to use any type of sealant when putting back together.
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #3 on: April 07, 2019, 02:16:37 PM »
got the plate off and pretty much have it all cleaned up now.

I assume the hole in the bottom is for oil circulation as the fuel rod has to lubricated in some fashion but last couple questions.

can I just use normal gasket sealer like for thermostat or water pump to seal plate?
do I need to prime the new fuel pump or just take my time cranking engine to allow for fuel to reach pump from tank?
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Online bd

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #4 on: April 07, 2019, 02:59:22 PM »
The pushrod is passively lubricated from above.  The small hole in the bottom of the cavity allows oil to drain back into the oil pan.

Disconnect the distributor so the engine cannot start and have an assistant tap the engine over using the starter while you press the pushrod up into the block against the camshaft.  When the pushrod is fully retracted into the block, have the assistant stop cranking.  This will make installing the new fuel pump much easier.

Apply a light coat of engine oil to the pushrod before reinserting it into the block the final time and then reassemble using new gaskets for the plate and the fuel pump.  For the best seal, smear Permatex "Ultra" silicone sealer to both sides of the gaskets.  Apply a dab of light grease to the end of the fuel pump arm that comes in contact with the pushrod.

Inspect and replace fuel hoses now if needed.  Reconnect the distributor.  No need to "prime" the new fuel pump.  Simply crank the engine for 10 - 15 seconds at a time as needed, allowing a couple of minutes between cranks to allow the starter to cool and the battery to recover.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2019, 04:38:55 PM »
Thanks for the help..I thought I was about done and had everything cleaned up however after looking closer (yet another reason to always take pictures) it seems that the old gasket is still on the engine.. this thing is rock hard so it look like I'm back to doing a ton of scrapping with a razorblade to get it cleaned up before putting back together.

1 more repair done though with more learning yet to gain.
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2019, 07:24:36 PM »

Nice job cleaning it up, I think I would have used a shop vac to draw out the shavings.

if that gasket is still intact I would be inclined to use it, silicone would make up for surface differences, just me.
 
Just for insurance, place a rare earth magnet on the bottom of your oil pan right where the drain plug is, on the next oil change pull off the magnet and what ever shavings it caught will exit with the oil.


Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2019, 07:50:27 PM »
finally done with the cleaning... then realized I didn't have a gasket for the plate, just the pump itself so it looks like I"ll be finishing up tomorrow night.

I did attempt the shopvac option but honestly it didn't do very well for multiple reasons and if taking it apart was the 'correct' option then I'd rather do that anyway and gain a bit of knowledge in the process.  I've never done more on vehicles then basic maintenance and buying this project truck is also a learning experience for me and something to do in my spare time.  This truck will not be a daily driver but more of just a project/fun vehicle that I can use for whatever I want but nothing serious as it only has a little 305 in it.  With that said however I recently had someone offer me a sbc 400 (with 4 bolt main) for free that supposedly is complete including fan/carb even.  I have yet to go have a look at it but supposedly it has been garage kept and just in the way as they are moving so I might change my plans a bit more and do more drastic things to the truck to make it more of a daily driver wince it'll actually have some power behind it.
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Online bd

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #8 on: April 08, 2019, 12:15:59 AM »
In the future, instead of using a razor blade, which is very dangerous, purchase a rigid gasket scraper (image) and wear mechanic's gloves to protect your hands and fingers from sharp edges.  A gasket scraper is a good tool investment that you will use repeatedly.  I've worn out many over the years!

Honestly, don't overthink the repair.  Under the circumstances, removing the oil pan (if that is what you are thinking) is unnecessary.  There isn't that much metal that made it into the pan, to begin with.  Just rinse the open cavity and the oil drain-back hole with some aerosol carburetor cleaner.  Whatever minuscule quantity of aluminum hiding in the drain-back hole will wash into the pan to be drained with the oil.  Incidentally, a magnet won't help with aluminum. 

Don't reuse the old plate gasket since the paper has absorbed engine oil and the silicone sealer may not reliably bond for an effective seal.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #9 on: April 24, 2019, 10:07:07 AM »
that gasket scraper was so much easier.. thanks for the advice

I was never going so far as to remove the oil pan but I just was not sure exactly where the drain hole went but I'm going to run some seafoam through it when I get it going anyway which would involve an oil change soon regardless.

got all the stuff I needed and put back together but this leads me to another couple questions that could go in other threads...
     I have the hardline that is at fuel pump that is leaking and was wondering what is recommended to use to put on the threads to help seal?  and since this is my first truck (ever) and really the first time I've ever really started doing more then basic repairs (ie. plugs/wires/fluids/brakes/etc) I've noticed that there are some additional sealers and lubricants that I should just have available for use and was wondering what everyone recommends to keep as 'basics'.. (nothing specialized as this is DIY at home type of thing)

*had these
WD40
waterpump gasket sealer
dielectric grease

*needed these
pb blaster
choke/carb cleaner
starter fluid
oil resistence gasket sealer
locktite blue
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Online bd

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #10 on: April 24, 2019, 12:32:52 PM »
Inspect the tube and fitting flare faces for distortion or nicks and make sure the tube nut is square when started into the fuel pump.  Scroll down to Flare Fittings in the thread Guide to Thread Sealing for thread preparation to help ensure suitable compression on the flare without distorting the hollow nut.

Other good chemicals to have on hand are aerosol brake cleaner (CRC red or 3M), aerosol carb cleaner (Berrymans B12), one of the variations of Permatex Ultra silicone sealer (gray, black, copper), one of the variations of Loctite Red anaerobic resins, Permatex High Tack, and McKay brake assembly lube.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2019, 02:36:34 PM »
I always keep aerosol Permatex gasket sealer with copper.

Same with Graphite spray for mating metal surfaces.

Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2019, 09:25:49 PM »
so I've taken this line off and on several times now and simply can't get it to stop leaking.  I cleaned the threads (there was old tape on there I didn't notice before) and put on new tape but I just can't seem to get it to not leak... is there a gasket or something I'm missing?   I don't see one in any of the parts stores coming with pump or new fuel line nor in all the videos I've seen.. this is really getting stupid.
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's

Online bd

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2019, 09:33:20 PM »
I suspect that either the flare is distorted, the fitting is cross-threaded, or you simply are not torquing the line nut sufficiently.  Are you using a 6-point flare nut wrench on the line nut with an open-end backup wrench on the fuel pump fitting?
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know, until you know it....
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline BillWill

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Re: shredded fuel pump
« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2019, 10:32:51 PM »
I'm positive it is not cross-threaded as I've taken it off twice and checked and each time I get it most of the way on by hand and yes I"m using flare wrenches (actually was a new tool set I bought just for this occasion) but I'm just having issues... I do not have a torque wrench and I'm sure it is pretty tight but at the same time I don't want to over tighten it.
1986 chevy K10 4x4
305 w/700r
3" lift on 33's