Author Topic: Dual batteries  (Read 13406 times)

Online VileZambonie

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2009, 10:18:56 am »
The CS upgrade is worth it but since you already put $ into the si bring it back to them.
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Offline Blue 82

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #16 on: February 08, 2009, 07:00:41 pm »
What size cable are you running from your alternator to your starter?
If you are not using a #8 or larger, thats a good place to start
Also if the lights are dimming under load you need to have a good body ground also from both batts

I have twin batts in my truck
I use marine deep cycles and an isolater
Voltage sensing relays are a better setup if you need to isolate batts
but my setup has worked for the past 10 years

In your case an you would not need an isolater

Originally I installed the twin batt setup so I could swap batts when I go on
multiple fishing trips in remote areas
My boat alternator is only 6 amps
the boat kills two batts after 4 or 5 hours of fishing
I simply swap the boat batts for the truck batts

A few years ago I ran some #6 cable to the rear of the truck
and installed a twist lock plug
I made a cable assembly that plugs into the trolling motor plug on the boat
the other end plugs into the twist lock plug
now I can charge the boat batts on the way from/to the boat ramp
or plug in the electric winch for my car trailer are on bigger boat trailers

The key to making your system work is to get some good quality cable and terminals
I work on trains for a living and have access to good quality hydraulic crimping equipment
The cable from batt to the starter is 1/0
the grounds for both batts to the engine is 1/0
the cables for the body grounds is #8
from the alternator to the isolater is #8
The cables from the isolater to the batts is #8
(All the cables are super fine strand, tinned copper)

I'm still running the OEM alternator
with the exception of the winches the system does not get "hit" very hard like it would with a plow,
but it does "work" hard












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Offline Blue 82

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2009, 07:56:12 pm »
This would be a good start if you have top post batteries
You could connect 1/0 cables to the engine ground
and a 1/0 to the plow negative or ground
and a #8's for the body grounds

Im sure simalar stuff is made for the + post




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Offline Blazin

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2009, 07:17:33 am »
I tried the CS alternators setup. went through three in one week. When I talked with the rebuild guy he said they are a good upgrade, but cost allot more to build into higher output units. He said stock CS alternators work good but with a plow I would have to build one up.
As far as cables are concerned. I replaced the ground to the engine from the primary battery. Shortend the old engine ground and put it to the frame. Replaced the body ground. New cables to the secondary battery, installed body ground, and chassis ground. Hooked the plow to the secondary battery. The no plow angle problem is solved. I am just not happy with the output at an idle. I am taking the whole truck to him today and let him look at it.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2009, 10:57:25 pm by Blazin »
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Offline 808SS

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2009, 04:24:45 pm »
Im no pro but from what I went threw.
Are both batterys the same? What kind of batterys you using?
Im thinking the 140 Alt is to small, I was running a 200 Alt w/two yellow tops
What size cables you using for ground and power?



I use 0/1 gauge wire for both power and ground
You should use at lease 4 gauge for power and bigger for ground
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Offline Blazin

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2009, 10:56:38 pm »
Have 4 gage wire for power and grounds. Have 6 gage to feed on alt. He tested it today, its good. He said one problem with a high amp is the low output at an idle.
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Offline choptop

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2009, 08:39:34 am »
Can ypu find a smaller pulley? it would change the ratio and speed it up. Since this isnt a high rpm engine, it wouldnt cause it to overspeed. The only thing that concerns me is that with high loads at low rpms it may cause the alternator to heat up and the windings to break down.
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Offline hilton850

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #22 on: February 10, 2009, 03:27:10 pm »
From the sounds, your alternator should spin a little faster...bunch of people hit on that.  If its a plow/work truck I'd put a smaller pulley on it and be done.  This will improve alternator output when the engine is at or near idle and will also speed up the fan on the alternator shaft and help keep the coils cool and may make the electrical part of the alternator last longer.  Good to hear you got the plow working right.  is it a Fisher plow?  If it is, those do funny things when the hydraulic suction filter gets dirty, also the hydraulic oil pickup tubes are prone to falling off.  Our plow has had both problems and the guy at the Fisher place said both were common FWIW.
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Offline Blazin

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #23 on: February 10, 2009, 07:01:20 pm »
Already thought of the smaller pulley route. problem is finding one. I mentioned that to him he said he wouldn't go to much smaller but a little wouldn't hurt it. It is a fisher but its the first gen minute mount style pump on a fixed frame. It doesn't have suction tubes. The oil gets changed every couple storms, and I clean the filter, its not a hydraulic problem. I do have a problem in the valve body that I am chasing down. The the bypass valves are week. Looking into a new valve body as the parts for one of the bypass valves will not come out of the valve body block. By pass doesn't affect left or right operation though.
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Offline Blue 82

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Re: Dual batteries
« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2009, 09:36:45 pm »
82 stepside 2wd 355/th350/3.08 posi