Author Topic: Overheating problem  (Read 10102 times)

Offline Russ130

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2009, 11:33:12 am »
To get rid of an air pocket without bleeder screws takes some time to say the least. What you do is fill it up as much as will take and start the engine. Watch the gauge as soon as you see the t-stat open up which can be determined by the sudden drop in temp shut it down. Wait til it reaches ambient temperature and repeat until no more fluid is required. Should only take a couple of times at most. I'm know there are other ways but recently I ran into a real stubborn air pocket in a customers car and this is the only method that worked
« Last Edit: March 25, 2009, 08:21:22 pm by Captkaos »

Offline dwg30

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2009, 08:36:16 pm »
Well has new radiator cap now and tried to burp an air pocket out. Still doing the samething?? I guess now I will have to start tearing things apart to try to find the problem. Man I didn't want to have to do that but no other options now.

Offline Russ130

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #17 on: March 25, 2009, 09:25:06 pm »
Sorry it didn't work for you? I hate to say it but if you replaced your entire cooling system and it still over heats then maybe the problem is in the heads.

Offline Blue 82

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2009, 07:00:52 pm »
You could be running extremly lean on the highway.
How's the PCV valve?
How's you fuel pressure?

You timing could be retarded enough to cause it to get hot.
See if your vacuum advance is working.

82 stepside 2wd 355/th350/3.08 posi

Offline hilton850

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2009, 08:38:34 pm »
What size engine is it?

I was just thinking if it's a 400 small block, maybe the previous owner rebuilt it with different heads and didn't drill the steam holes that the 400 requires....I don't have too much experience with 400's but I think this could possibly cause a problem like that....Someone can correct me if I'm wrong...
'84 Sierra 3/4 ton.  4 on the floor, 4 wheel drive, upgraded to FM radio and steelhorse seat.  383 stroker under the hood - 430 hp 440 ft-lb.  custom rust holes in the bed and both rockers and cab corners.

Online VileZambonie

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2009, 09:02:23 pm »
Yes, he said it is a 350.

I would run it with a spill free funnel on the radiator and check for hydrocarbons. Any local garage near by with a gas analyzer and a need for a case of beer?
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Offline dwg30

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2009, 09:58:23 pm »
Timing and vacuum advance are good. I have not checked the pcv or fuel pressure but will.

Does anyone know what the temp drop across an OEM radiator should be? I am borrowing a heat gun from a buddy this weekend to check mine but it does not feel like much drop across. Dropping a manual gauge down into the filler neck shows pretty much the same as the factory gauge. Not sure how accurate the factory gauge or the manual gauge I have is. Will find out this weekend.

Offline Blue 82

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #22 on: March 27, 2009, 07:41:22 am »
What kind of belt system drives the water pump?

You might have the wrong (rotation) water pump

82 stepside 2wd 355/th350/3.08 posi

Offline dwg30

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Re: Overheating problem
« Reply #23 on: March 27, 2009, 06:48:55 pm »
It has the oem belt drive. The serpentine and vbelt system that they had on the later K20's. The water pump I pulled off I pulled the cover to check the impeller and it was the right one. The new one was identical to the old one so should be right.