lashing valves, could use help please

[agilbert81]

Hi everyone.  Never done a forum before but I could use some help.  Iowa's super lucky to be given a 74 custom 4x4 by my father in law, needs TLC. It had a broken rocker and about 9 rattling rockers.  I want to lash the valves and know 1 way, moving rods up and down while tightening until "zero lash" then 1/4 turn more. I have also heard a lot about lashing while the engine is running. I would love to hear some input.

Currently I am replacing intake gasket and going to rebuild Carb. Also doing front main seal and timing chain, so I'm really just down to engine, heads and valves. Trying to get stuff cleaned up before it all goes back together.  I just don't want to wait till last minute and rush through lashing and do some half-a#* job. Promised my father in law I'd take care of his old/my new baby.

Anything helps. Thanks

[Fairlane514]

I would twist the pushrods and not move them up and down, you want them to be in the cup of the lifter and rocker arm on the other end.

You can do one cylinder at a time using the EOIC method. When the exhaust(E) valve begins to open(O), adjust the intake valve. When the intake (I) begins to close(C) adjust the exhaust valve. Then move to the next cylinder, and repeat the process.

Twist the pushrod until you get some resistance, then a quarter turn past that. Use your index finger and thumb and feel for a slight resistance, thats zero lash. This of course is for hydraulic lifters. If you are using polylocks, I like to hold the nut with a 5/8 open end wrench and turn the set screw until tight, and then bump the 5/8 wrench to lock it down a little more, like maybe a 1/16th of an inch.

Everybody has their ways of running the valves, this is just one.   

[agilbert81]

Thank you very much for the help. I have plain solid rockers,  so would the twisting method still work? Also when I begin, I start at TDC with the number 1 cylinder and then move along in firing order correct? Another big concern I have is that my distributor and manifold are already out.  I marked the manifold and distributor so that I don't put it back in a tooth off.  But if I leave the manifold off to watch the EOIC, what is the best way to keep the alignment for when I put the manifold and distributor back in?

Sorry for all the questions, but I really appreciate all the help.

[79gmc15]

I am sure I will be corrected, but in your case it would be best to do it according to firing order when the valves are closed. Even if you did it EOIC and lose tdc it can be easily found with a screwdriver. Just make sure to limit turning the motor in reverse and jump a tooth on the timing chain. Also, you don't need to have the intake off to adjust the lash. It may make it sightly easier, but not necessary.

[Fairlane514]

Stamped rocker with a single locking nut?  Then yes the twisting still works. Tighten until slight resistance and then 1/4 turn, move to the next valve. Yes, you can start with number one on compression stroke. The idea behind EOIC is the valve you are adjusting will be on the heal of the cam lobe, or fully closed. Since you have your manifold off, you will be able to see the lifter all the way down in its bore, on the valve you are adjusting.

I wouldn't worry about your marks on the manifold, stabbing the distributor is not hard. Bring the motor around to compression stroke (both valves closed) on the number one cylinder. The line on the balancer should be pointing a 10 degrees BTDC. Make a mark on your distributor body where you want your number one terminal for the spark plug wire. Simply place the cap on the distributor find the number one terminal and follow it down to the body and mark it, then remove the cap. As you drop in the distributor align the rotor point  with the mark on your distributor. If the distributor does not drop all the way down its because the oil pump drive shaft is not fully engaged into the bottom of the distributor shaft. Rotate the motor until it drops down all the way.  This should have you very close to your initial timing and the motor will start easily if everything else is coming into play.....fuel, spark.

If you have a stock cam you can do the firing order method, but I like doing one cylinder at a time for accuracy.

[ehjorten]

I've always adjusted my rockers by rotating the engine through it's firing order and adjusting that cylinder.  I've never understood why someone would do the EOIC method.  It is way to much rotating of the engine.  With the firing order on a V8 you simply rotate the engine 8 times at 90°.  If you have a balancer that is already marked every 90° it is even more simple.  I guess it wouldn't be that bad if you had a remote starter tool to bump over the engine, but doing all of that rotating on a high compression engine is not my idea of fun!  If your cam is not on the base circle at TDC when you are on the firing order then something is really wrong with your engine.  This works for any cam.

Don't however use a book that tells you to adjust certain intakes and certain exhausts at #1 TDC and then rotate the engine 180° and adjust the other valves if you have a cam other than the stock cam.

[454Man]

X2

[Fairlane514]

You can take the spark plugs out to make it easier.............

On performance cams EOIC is more accurate, because of lobe separation and overlap.