Heater hose Quick Disconnect Fitting

[gunrac]

Hoping for a bit of input on my latest scenario. Heater hose going into the intake manifold has the Quick Disconnect Fitting. At least it did not break off, but the plastic section inside is shot. Were talking my 94', putting the hose at 20yrs. old. While I still have plenty of room to still crawl inside, I thought it  to be a good idea to swap out the old hose's.

Question is, Can I just put a regular hose nipple connector on the intake manifold or should I keep as is?  ......Asking only because I can see flow is restricted somewhat by the plastic piece inside the coupler, by about 1/2.  I really can't see it being an issue myself, but I don't know for sure.

[LTZ C20]

You should be able to get a new one of those at the dealer. They are pretty cheap. Auto parts stores might have them but the new parts are a different design than the old parts were and auto parts store may not have the newer design. The design difference is, old style was aluminum, new style is steel.

[gunrac]

Thx, but got lucky. Found the plastic insert's in a 2 pack.

[LTZ C20]

Thx, but got lucky. Found the plastic insert's in a 2 pack.

Sweet

[AZ87V10]

I removed that fitting from the heater hose on my 98 Silverado I used to have with no ill effects as far as flow was concerned. Although I screwed it up because the fitting was aluminum and the threads were seized in my intake. I wound up snapping it off trying to remove it from the intake. Then trying to remove the broken piece caused an easy out to get stuck and caused the intake to crack!  I had to replace it and the engine in that truck was never the same! It ran like poop and leaked all the time and then the head gasket blew! 
Needless to say, I then traded that truck in to get my square! 

[gunrac]

WOW! Wouldn't want to deal w/all that. Piss poor design out of the gate, as I now see it. Kinda stuck there also. I was going to replace hose an do the nipple change, but w/the MAP bracket right there, I couldn't see a route running hose only w/o laying against the bracket. A plastic wrap around hose, may have helped. I decided to leave it as is. There was no sign's of dry-rot or bulging.

[AZ87V10]

Yes it was a poor design! Luckily, I haven't had any issues with my square since it utilizes the same design! I think most of my issues stemmed from the fact that I didn't completely know what I was doing at the time and I rushed the job since that truck was my daily driver at the time.

[LTZ C20]

That's exactly why there are 2 designs, 1st design is aluminum, 2nd design is steel. You can't get the first design new, only as a used part. Only the 2nd design is sold new. The aluminum model was to fragile.

[AZ87V10]

Sadly, I found that out the hard way! All because it was leaking and I hate engine leaks! But I also had a poor quality rebuild. I think the guy was more interested in screwing me out of my money and stealing my 82 square body that I used as collateral versus truly fixing my engine. He never resurfaced my heads after my head gasket blew and it continually leaked coolant up until the day that I traded the truck in to get my square! People love to praise the Vortec head design, but I had nothing but reliability problems and leaking issues with the truck from the day I bought it till the day I traded it in!

[LTZ C20]

Sounds like crappy work on his part.

[AZ87V10]

Yeah he was a real piece of work! Might be a reason why he's no longer in business! You develop a bad reputation in a small town and word gets out quickly!

[LTZ C20]

There is a huge difference between having big tools and being a big tool.

[Irish_Alley]

gm for some reason also had a poor design on the impalas the fwd 200-2005 (at least) used plastic 90° elbow to connect the water pump to the block. well they wont come out in one piece the rubber seams to stick to the block and you end up having to break them apart then take about 20 minutes scraping the bits out of the water pump and block. after market you can get plastic ones or alum.