1987 R10 Silverado 2wd

[justin71105]

Just need an aligbment now and let it settle.  Both sides are a hair under 30", around 29.8.

Still have to do the 2" hangers to be done with lowering it.  And will likely go up to 50 series tires in the back and 40s in the front once these wear out.

Next is probably going to be my rear mounted tank and while the bed is off I will do the hangers.







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[justin71105]

Got alignment and the shop flushed and bled my brakes for me, I bled them last week and they seemed fine until I left for the alignment shop and they got squishy enough that I did not want to drive home without having it done. 

On the way home had the issue with truck dyeing at a red-light again and when trying to back into the garage it would die as soon as it went into gear.  So I started checking everything again, have already replaced some things when I first had this issue.  Checked vacuum with gauge and it was good , tried testing fuel pump but the gauge I bought from HF for vacuum only goes to 10 psi and does not have correct fitting. 

Tried it anyway at fuel filter and it was leaking a little but only got to 4 psi before dropping, going to rent a gauge tomorrow and try again....leaning toward this being the problem.  If this is the case I am going to find which Blazer tank can be mounted at rear of truck between frame rails and order tank, sending unit, inline fuel pump, inline regulator and new lines.  Plan is to put in a L31 motor and FiTech unit this summer and was planning on moving gas tank anyway.....just have to be done a little sooner that I planned.

Other cause I have been reading on is that the TCC solenoid is not disengaging but I am hoping this is not the case since it would mean I have to drop the pan.  Supposedly the last owner had trans rebuilt, the shop I bought it from had no paper work of this.  But the trans cross member bolts were loose so it could have been.  Guess I can test this out by letting it warm up and driving it around in Drive and not OD for awhile and see if it stalls when stopped.

Buddy gave me a headlight kit that I will be installing soon and I got my new black billet grill in the mail.  Think I am going to pull the rest of them trim off around feners and windows later on as well.

[justin71105]

Changed out tps with one I ordered a while back and never put in, old one was reading a good bit off from ground to the blue wire and ground to gray wire. Used this guide to test it: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/tp-sensor-tests-1 

Followed the test with the old tps and reading were off a bit, blue to ground was 1.12DCV when throttle was closed all the way with throttle screw, new one is .75DCV with idle set by ear and can lower.  When throttle is open all the way I get 4.45DCV with new tps.  All the other test are good with the new tps.

Tested fuel pump and got 12-13 psi while idling and while revving, so it should be good.  Drives fine to start and runs through gears great, shifts smooth and when it should.  Problem comes when I come to a stop, it will shudder and die at some red lights.

Got it back home after taking it down the road and warming everything up to operating temps. Put it in reverse and backed up rpm dropped and it died. 

Put in P and started it back up, idles fine in P and N.  Shift into R or OD and it shifts Hard and dies sometimes right away.  Sometimes it will idle a few seconds and slowly die out.  I do not have an rpm gauge but I did idle it by ear after resetting the IAC, need to set idle in OD or D with an rpm gauge.  Probably be my next thing to get and see what the rpm actually is.

Also may unplug TCC solenoid and get it up to temp and run it down the road up to 4th gear and back home to see if it still has the problem.  If not could be a bad TCC solenoid or could be shorted to ground.  I did replace this plug since the old ones lock tab was broke so could be the case as well.


Faulty Transmission Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid:
SYMPTOMS - Failed in the Open Position

The symptoms are different a torque converter clutch solenoid that fails in the open position... The symptoms of a torque converter clutch solenoid that fails while in the open position are quite different from a solenoid that fails in the closed position, as described above. When the solenoid is open, the engine is locked to the transmission so there is no transmission slip. With the transmission unable to slip, the engine will stall when the vehicle comes to a stop.

[justin71105]

New dash speakers installed today.  4 - 3.5's and new dash pad with trim piece "re-used silverado emblem".  Led's installed in gauge cluster. 

Need to screw down the dash pad and get the cluster put back in.  Have some door trim to get rid of the vinyl handles.  Was going to keep them but didnt want to buy all the pieces I am missing and are broken on them.  So I bought the aluminum strip that will cover that whole area.

Need to go get a cd player and some rear speakers, hoping some 5.25's or 6.5's will fit in the factory mounting plates....even if I have to cut them. 

Still need new carpet and either new seats or install a new cover for interior to be where I want it. 

Going to unplug tcc solenoid this week when I get interior done and see if it idles correctly as red lights after being on the highway.  If it does going to have it replaced or replace it myself when I pull motor/trans for the L31 I want to put in it.







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[justin71105]

Dash installed and new gauge cluster put in.  Working on getting new window channel run put in and painted door panels re-installed.  Then interior will be good enough forbme until I can get some new carpet and a new seat cover put on.







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[justin71105]

Started on the window weather stripping today, also got the old grill pulled out and everything painted black that will be behind the new grille and lights.  Tomorrow I will either finish up the headlights and grille or start installing the weather stripping on the vent windows and the run channel.  Will still need carpet and a seat cover to be done with the inside, other than the stereo. 






Passenger side vent window done, needed new latches for both sides.  The latches are missing a few pieces so ordered those. Going to pull driver side and do it tonight or possibly tomorrow. 

Turned out pretty good, a lot better than I was expecting.  Used regular pop rivets, from reading online they work well.

[justin71105]

Passenger side weather stripping is done, hopefully can finish up the interior the next week I am off and start driving it. 

Still need another day or two of work to finish it up.  Needs driver side vent window glass, weatherstripping and both vent latches, window channel run, hd window harness for both sides, both door panels re-installed, cd player and amp kit installed.  Waiting to order carpet until I decide which seat I want to use.  Leaning toward the 99 and up 60/40 full size gm truck seats.



Pulled it out of the garage to let it run a little while and get up to temp.

https://youtu.be/dDkzBj7tL0o

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[justin71105]

Have been thinking more on what motor I am going to run now that I am getting closer having the interior done and will need to look at moving the gas tank and running new lines/pump.

I am leaning towards the LM7 with factory EFI, have been looking a ton of threads of others who have done the swap to see what all I will need.  I am leaning towards buying a donor truck so I can use the seats in it as well as the motor/trans/harness etc...  But the Vortec with fitech is looking a whole lot quicket to install and less modifications to make lol.



Found a lot of helpful info here

http://lt1swap.com/index.htm

[justin71105]

Door panels in and all window weather stripping installed.  HD window harness and relays installed and trying to get my new headlights and relays in tomorrow.

 
Ordering a power distribution block for the wires needing to go to my battery. Still need to order carpet and find some seats but that may wait until after I have my motor swap done.

I also got the power wire run for the amp, now need to run remote and rca wires to have it all set up and ready.  Getting pretty close to removing the bed for the fuel tank relocation.





Got the new headlights and harness installed and they are BRIGHT.  Ordered new headlight bezels from Summit and should have them Tuesday to put on. Need to find a new grill trim piece so I can get rid of this black one, or may try soaking it in paint thinner along with bow tie.


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[justin71105]

I got a little bit done today on my truck.  Pulled the bent front bumper and driver seide fender.

Got my new fender mounted and it lines up well with the hood and cab near windshield. 

Was going to replace driver side door hinge pins/bushings....had a good bit of door sag and they were very sloppy.  Got the pins out and the bottom hole on the upper and lower hinges was wore out so I pulled the door off and ordered new hinges.













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[justin71105]

Got the carpet in and all the interior back togethor, going to start driving it a little more now.  Have a good bit of junk from the truck to haul off thats been building up in the bed.

Going to start looking at installing the new fuel tank and lines soon in preperation for the motor swap. However, the trucks runs so well now that I may get some 3.42 or 3.73 gears to tide me over until this winter and swap the motor out then.  Just needs a little more pep off the line......well alot more pep. Also may go ahead and install my longtube headers and have the exhaust run out.



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[justin71105]

Finally had time to wash and wax it.  Will need some rubbing compound on a few spots but it looks pretty good for 30 year old paint.  Also may go ahead and sand down were the trim going down the middle of the truck used to be and fill it in and prime/paint again.  It left some pretty good pitting that can be seen under the gloss enamel I sprayed on it the first time.













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[justin71105]

Getting fairly close to the beginning process of ordering a motor, have a few I am looking at and after throwing around several ideas the last few months I am thinking the Vortec L31-R motor is going to be the way to go.  The price difference from the older style is not that much more for a better engine from what I have been reading, plan was to run Fitech but re-thinking that now.  I will likely run a carb to start and decide on going to Fitech later down the road.  Will likely not put enough miles on it to justify spending the extra 1k on it.

There are a few other odds and ends I didn't put down but most things will be moving from my 305 to the Vortec motor.  All my sensors and plugs are new, plugs and wires are brand new, so I'm swapping them over.  Going to try to get my headers and exhaust put on before the end of June so that will be done. 

Here is the list of items I have found so far I will need: Is there anything else missing besides gaskets and bolts?


1: Engine:           https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12530283

2: Carb:              https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-14063

3: Intake:           https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226018-b

4: Distributor:     https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850050  or  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r/overview/

5: Water Pump:   https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-252-711

6:Flex-plate         https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-399773/overview/make/chevrolet