Replacement Gauge parts

[donkason]

I have done some searching and haven't found an answer so here is my situation.  I have a 1980 K10 and the person that owned it before me had the dash out and butchered the electrical when he installed the CD player, intermittent wipers, and cab marker lights.  All of the gauges work except the temperature gauge.  So I decided to just buy a replacement gauge for $16 and leave everything alone.  I was hunting for a wire off my gauge cluster to illuminate my new gauge and started taking the dash apart.

It wasn't pretty.  The bezel itself has been pulled out multiple times and is cracked and broken around all the mounting holes except two and the printed circuit on the back is chewed up pretty well with missing bulbs.  Now my gauge lights don't work when I plug the harness in, but my gauges still work.  I am assuming it is the printed circuit that is the problem.  Is there anywhere I can buy a new bezel and printed circuit?  I figured while I have it apart I might as well fix it right by replacing everything.  Otherwise I might just mount a little LED strip outside the cluster on the underside of the dash panel for a quick fix. 

The marker lights don't work either but I'll tackle that another day. 

[Captkaos]

I don't have those as I don't know a supplier, but Golden State Pickup Parts (http://www.gspp.com) has them:  http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadegekc&GHOME=www.gspp.com&TITLE= and search for 15-H158C

[donkason]

Thanks a bunch!!!!!!

While I am here I have another one.  I am trying to fix my marker lights.  When I pull our the headlight switch to the halfway point they don't come on, nor do they come on when the switch is fully engaged.  According to a wiring diagram the brown wire coming out of the back of the switch is the marker light wire.  I put a volt/ohm meter to it and it is reading .03 volts.  When I turn the switch off it goes to 0 volts.  Shouldn't this be reading 11-12 volts?  Does this mean I have to replace my switch?  That might be part of the issue with the lights on the gauge cluster not working too.......   The only significant voltage readings I get off any of the wires on the back of the switch is the red(incoming hot wire) and the yellow(headlights).  Everything else is pretty much dead.


I really appreciate all the help and I love this forum.  It has saved me hundreds of dollars and hours of time.  I enjoy "break it yourself projects" since it gives me an excuse to build it bigger when I tear it up