Author Topic: Oil pan removal  (Read 12598 times)

Offline eventhorizon66

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Oil pan removal
« on: January 26, 2009, 08:23:55 pm »
OK, I'll concede.  I have to ask a very basic, very embarassing question.  Does anyone know of a clever way to remove a stubborn oil pan?

Here's the story.  So I'm replacing my intake gaskets (that's another story), no big deal.  I'm cleaning out all the intake manifold bolt holes with a thread chase and naturally it slips out of my hand and down the rear oil drainback passage (my fault for not having a shop towel shoved in it).  "No big deal," I say, after one or two four letter words, "I'll just drop the pan."  All oil drained, all bolts removed from pan, no obstructions to hang up on, but the thing won't drop.  I'm afraid to pry between the pan and block because it might warp the rail, so it's OK that I don't really have enough room to do so anyways.  So I whip out my rubber mallet and start pounding away.  No dice.  Block of wood and 5 lb sledge.  No dice, now it has a small dent.  Is there some kind of toxic, prohibited, eat-your-face-away chemical that I can soak the gasket material with?

It's OK to laugh at me, I know I would, if I weren't so frustrated.  Thanks guys.
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2009, 08:29:16 pm »
Go back around the pan. you probably missed a bolt. Smacking it in the corvers just right with a dead blow will break it loose. If you have to pry just do it carefully and gently or you'll be replacing the pan too.
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Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2009, 08:35:21 pm »
Definitely didn't miss a bolt, checked it very carefully.  But, thanks, I'll get back out there and continue beating on it.  I would like a new Milodon 7 qt pan, LOL, but I definitely can't afford it right now.
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2009, 08:48:40 pm »
Maybe one like this if you destroy it.

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=797
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2009, 08:57:07 pm »
Wow, that's an awesome deal.  I'm bookmarking it, or maybe that would jinx me.  Calling it quits for tonight, bumming a ride tomorrow, and attacking it again in the afternoon.  They must have used some sort of industrial strength adhesive/sealant when they assembled it. >:(

When I do get it loose, what do you recommend for gasket sealant when I reinstall it?  I was planning on Gasgasinch for the pan rails and block, and a squirt of The Right Stuff RTV for the four corners.  Sound good?
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline Captkaos

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2009, 09:25:59 pm »
Can you get a screwdriver/pry in the back corner?  Did you glue both sides of the gasket?

Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2009, 09:38:00 pm »
I can't really get a long screw driver in anywhere except a few awkward spots along the rail, thanks to my full length headers.  I didn't install the pan last, a factory in Mexico did.  But I figure they did use gasket glue on both sides or it would have come off by now.
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600

Offline the dan

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2009, 09:49:50 pm »
try taking a cheapo scre driver you have (flat head) and bend the tip in a vice to get yourself some good direction on it, a slight dead blow like vile said should do the trick too
83 C10 Pro-touring, Forged 408 Stroker LS, Paxton supercharger, T56 magnum, Detroit 9", and horrible paint

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2009, 06:40:18 am »
Clean the areas real good and put the end seals in with the rightstuff. Then use 3m weatherstripping adhesive (yellow snot) to glue the gaskets in place (assuming you have a 2 piece rear main) and hold them in place with bolts. Apply a bead of rightstuff across both ends and bolt it up.
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Offline Skunksmash

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2009, 08:27:13 am »
Definitely didn't miss a bolt, checked it very carefully.  But, thanks, I'll get back out there and continue beating on it.  I would like a new Milodon 7 qt pan, LOL, but I definitely can't afford it right now.

Not trying to threadjack, but i would just like to ask how having more oil than stock would actually help.

Offline the dan

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2009, 09:26:38 am »
more oil =  more to circulate = generally lower oil temps, and more in there at all times if your running hi pressure, hi volume pump
83 C10 Pro-touring, Forged 408 Stroker LS, Paxton supercharger, T56 magnum, Detroit 9", and horrible paint

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2009, 10:16:48 am »
I wouldn't run an HV oil pump unless you have more than .002 oil clearances and if you do you better make sure you have a high capacity baffled pan. Running an HV pump with tight clearances will possibly pump a stock pan dry or run you with PR valve open. And as the dan said better oil cooling is a plus with the extra capacity pan.
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Offline joesgarage71

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2009, 10:55:10 am »
 You get that bigger pan, might as well get a new pump because your going to need a different sump!

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Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #13 on: January 27, 2009, 12:06:21 pm »
The pan is the sump and it should come with a new pick up but a new pump certainly couldn't hurt.
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74 GMC, 75 K5, 84 GMC, 85 K20, 86 k20, 79 K10

Offline eventhorizon66

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Re: Oil pan removal
« Reply #14 on: January 27, 2009, 02:18:28 pm »
Just out of curiosity.  What is the concesus on these gaskets?  They are twice the price, but look like they'd make installation easier.  My pan requires a gasket set that accomodates a dip stick on either side.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2009, 02:20:14 pm by eventhorizon66 »
'85 C10 SWB 350 700R4 TKO600