My '77 K-30/V3500 Monster Truck Build

[1983stepside]

this is a cool build i cant wait to see more of it should be a real nice pullin truck

[Engineer]

Hey guys!

Sorry I haven't replied to my thread in awhile, I see that there have been a few comments since I was on here last. I will try to address everyone's comments, but first......

Here are my latest updates......

The first picture is of my manual steering setup. I don't know how this will work on a 4x4 puller, but I am going to give it a try. I kept all of my power steering equipment should this way prove to be too big of a hand full.

This set up should free up a few ponies from the crankshaft. Every little bit helps when you are trying to win.





I just scored this baby off of eBay. 
It is a Dana60 35 spline Power-lok. It is better than the normal Trac-Lok that Dana used in the front of some of the Chevy K-30s. The P/L has 4 spider gears vs. the T/L's 2. The Power-Lok has 2 sets of clutches instead of only one like the Trac-Lok has. Best part of it all was that is was only $199.00. 



79K30guy- Yes, that two tone brown truck is my oldest son's '79 K-30. With cab lights.  Look elsewhere for a thread on the bed we bought for it today.

Everybody else:

Stay tuned, I am still trying to make headway with the floor board in my cab. I'll post pics when that is done. I have had to cut pieces out of an older '77 K-30 so that I can fix some much needed "dog house" repairs.

[Engineer]

Here is where I am at right now........



Most of the crossmembers, hitch parts, and rear axle trusswork has been cleaned, stripped, and primed waiting for paint.

I am about to take my frame to a body shop to have it sandblasted.

I just finished building a set of solid motor mounts that replace the squishy rubber ones. The ones that I made will work with the factory 454 clam shells.

The Dana60 front axle will be next in line to get the treatment. I will install all new seals, Dana/Spicer cold forged, non-greaseable, axle u-joints, and possibly Yukon chromoly 35-spline stub axles. At the very least I will get the Dana70 35-spline stubs. Also, at this time, I will drop in the PowerLok. A 1350 series pinion yoke will go on too. And I will also install all new knuckle king pins, bushings, and bearings as well.

[levisjohnson]

nice build

[SMiller]

Please keep this thread going, I love gas truck pulling and it is really cool seeing one being done from the ground up! Great job!!!

[Engineer]

Thanks for the replies, and sorry that there hasn't been any recent updates.

Been really busy lately so there hasn't been much time for work.

Most of the work that I have done recently are small detail items that don't require a huge time investment.

Since my son plays baseball, that takes a lot of my spare time. Not to worry though, I still get the itch to work on it occasionally.

I can say that many of the frame parts are now in primer. And I have repainted the shocks.

I also aquired a 32 spline front output shaft for my NP205, and a 1350 yoke for my Dana60 front. This will allow me to use my original 1350 series u-bolt style u-joint yoke and rear drive shaft as the front driveshaft. I will be building a completely new 1410 rear driveshaft when the chassis is reconstructed.

[rmauto1]

great build man!!!!!

[Engineer]

Man, have I been busy. July 4 weekend, 14/15YO baseball tournament, (which we won 1st place!!), working 40+ hours a week. To bed by midnight, up at 6AM just to do it all over again, and yet I somehow found time to work on the ol' pullin truck.

14-bolt cleaned, primed, and ready for paint:



Dana60 before:



Dana60 as of today:



Still need to get the pinion out, and replace the king-pins. Then it will get the treatment like the 14-bolt has. New king-pins torque to 600 ft/lbs. Removal of the old KPs will probably exceed 800 ft/lbs breaking torque. 

Just a pile of parts:

[Engineer]

I have another update.

I have been tossing around the idea of having all of my frame, spring, and axle stuff sandblasted, but I was a little concerned about what that cost might add up to. I thought about buying a sandblaster, but couldn't deceide on what to get. So, I finally closed on the idea of building one from some plans that I found on the internet that came from an old 1958 issue of Popular Mechanics.

I think my sand blaster turned out great. I have been buying blasting sand for $3.95/75#, so I think in the long run I will come out better on the money end.

My sand blaster is the full pressure type made from an old 30# propane cylinder, and hose, and fittings bought from a local farm supply store. I have some new ceramic tips coming that I bought off of ebay. The local flea market tool dealer tips don't last for more than one tank of sand. 

Compare before vs. after:



After I sand blast my Dana60 housing I will be ready to start rebuilding it. I found a machine shop that has a caustic tank big enough to hold an axle housing of that size, so I had them cook all of the crud out of all of the tight spots. Now it is all nice, and fresh.

I am really getting sick of staring at a pile of parts. All of my buddys are pulling, while I just watch. Man I am really getting the bug. I have to get this truck back together ASAP. 

So whatcha guys think? Is the home made sand blaster a keeper?

[Roughshod]

Looks great, please share the plans or a link to them for the sandblaster!

[Engineer]

Looks great, please share the plans or a link to them for the sandblaster!

Here you go.......

http://www.vintageprojects.com/metal-welding/SandBlaster-plans.pdf

I am sorry, it was "Mechanix Illustrated", not Popular Mechanics. And it was 1953, not 1958.

Silly me. LOL!

[Engineer]

Yup, I think the home made sandblaster is a keeper.

After caustic tank, before sand blasting:



After sand blasting:







Before I sand blasted the D60 I torqued the king pins into place. Those babys torque to 600 ft/lbs.    Not 60 ft/lbs, 600!

Now some primer, and paint, and we can start the reassembly. 

[Engineer]

Oh yeah, I forgot to add that it took me $8.00 worth of sand to do the D60 housing.

It would have been less, but the el-cheapo flea market tips keep wearing out, and when that happens there goes your sand.   

[Canadian 4X4]

put a ball valve in just before your gun then when the tip goes you just shut the valve off it saves a lot of sand especially if you are using cheap tips.

[screamin86]

great build im latching on to this one