My '77 K-30/V3500 Monster Truck Build

[frotosride]

Eng, I believe you to be a smart guy however, check with the job placement company to ensure your hired hands actually have hands before accepting them! I'm not rocket scientist but I believe this can help you emensly!

[Jason S]

Interestingly, Rockwell was also the prime contractor on the Space Shuttle orbiters.

[Engineer]

Well I finally have the mounts done for the transfer case. This weekend's plans revolve around pulling the case and mounts back out so they can be sandblasted, and painted when I find the time. Going to do the hubs as well.......if I can get mah Peeps to put out any work. Atleast they did get one hub ready. Knocked out the old races and put the studs in one of the hubs:



I finished building the mount for the left hand side. This little bracket will help cradle the transfer case.



Here it is in place on the left hand side:



Here is a view of the right hand side and its parts:



This view shows the flat plate welded into the square tube. The hockey stick bracket is a cradle type similar to the one built for the left:



Complete view:







And we roll on.......
-Eng

[Engineer]

The latest has us looking at the positive battery cable ran, and in place:



The 1/4" air brake tubing I am using to vent the axles, and gear boxes will follow along with the battery cable as well as the 1/2" line from the air tank that will feed a switch in the cab for actuation of the 4x4 and any other air powered accessories. (Like a train horn and bell...... )

Then I was able to get the Peeps to do some sandblasting:







A little epoxy primer:





And paint:







I decided to do this much for now. I wanted to get the transfer case done at the same time but since the weather was good and the transfer case needed some little improvement measures I elected to do the brackets. I want to check the 4x4 actuator piston, I will have to fashion a large pin to lock the hi-lo range rail, and I need to go back and reseal the rear output shaft. I also chose to get 2 of the hubs done so I can swap those into the front when I get the new wheel bearing seals........and so the front axle will be finished. (It, too, is on the list of uncompleted projects. )

As soon as I can I will get the transfer case painted so it can go back in the truck......can't wait. 

I have elected to make a change to my brakes. Instead of having a bubba engineered piston spacer machined I am going to buy a new set of rotors that are the appropriate thickness......Much more on that later. 

Also, I should be finishing the fuel line in the next week or so. And I just bought 2 new mufflers so I can build the exhaust.

My main focus is to finish up all of the many little sub projects I have going before moving on. I have started much that needs completed. Things like the battery cable, brake lines, fuel line, and transfer case install are much easier without the body in the way. I want these done so I can set the body on and get the engine running.

[Engineer]

Here is why you don't let stupid people build monster trucks.........

OK I'm not stupid, but I did something recently that goes against my best judgement. Thinking I could cheap out on my brake build I bought two rotors that were a really good price. I figured by using a GM caliper that I would be in business if I just made a spacer for the piston for the excess travel demanded by the thinner rotor. WRONG!!!

I didn't think this one through enough. Partly thinking I could get the spacers made for a reasonable price. As alluded to earlier in this thread one machine shop wanted $400 to make two spacers.


So, after much thought I decided to buy the correct rotors. These are they:



The one on the right was what I should have bought originally. Idiotically thinking I figured I could make a spacer. Trying to find a lathe was my next nightmare. I bought these two rolls of steel for that purpose.



The headache alone of trying to find a lathe should have told me how bad of an idea this all was. The thicker rotor has the benefit of better heat transfer, and oddly enough, they weigh the same.

The thicker (proper thickness) rotors were $150/pair, the thinner rotors were $75/pair. The spacer blanks were $50/pair. Do the math..... We are right at the $150 from the start. No savings here. Anyway, live, and learn. I didn't think making the spacers were going to be such a hassle.

Anyhow, the build is much more solid with the proper rotor, and no bubba spacer.


I am proud to say the brakes are finished! (one of the many projects that I have seen to completion recently).


Here is the front with the proper thickness rotor and no spacer:



Another view:



The rear:



And an angle where both are visible:




That is all I have time for tonight.

There is a ton more things completed. I have the transfer case sandblasted, painted, and installed. The fuel line(s) are done. The air tank is in and permanently mounted. The front hubs have been completed, and the right one installed with new seals. And I have a good start on my exhaust. Plus I have taken the time to black out most of the bolt heads.

I'll update more things later with pics. Check back!

-Eng

[LTZ C20]

We all make little fumbles sometimes, it's ok. Bravo work tho, I really like the brake idea.

[frotosride]

I'm all for making stuff... But with out access to the equipment it's sometimes a snipe hunt! I however have access to a lot of machinery and will be making some tools of my own soon. There's a room at work where we teach machine tool operator. In that room are 8 full size 440vac lathes, a large band saw, full size mill and a few other things that I'm not real sure what they do...yet!

The chassis is looking great. Slap some wheels on it so we can get an idea of the stance.... You know you want to!

[Engineer]

The best I can do is a picture from the mock up phase with a couple of the military 11.00-20s on it:



Looking across the frame you can see how it dwarfs the 2500HD behind it.

[Engineer]

Here is the fuel line.

I ran it down the outside of the frame for the same reason the brake line is on the outside on the left. I want to keep it from the exhaust heat.



A close up of the brackets:



The flex line is stainless steel. It works good for snaking around obstructions that normal bending of hard line would be a pain.

My fancy schmancy fuel filter monitor:



I worked on this in the last couple of days. I changed from a standard v-belt to a serpentine assembly so it required a change of the pressure line from the pump to the carburetor:







There is hard line only on the pressure side. This was done to eliminate one more potential for fire. No rubber lines and no fuel filter. (the fuel filter is that massive thing with the filter monitor back by where the tank will be)

[LTZ C20]

How did you make and air filter service gauge into a fuel filter service gauge. It looks like it has a brass fitting on it?

[Engineer]

It is actually fuel filter specific. I have another one that looks identical that is air filter specific that I plan on putting under my air filter base.

I believe it is a Luberfiner part. If I remember I'll get the part number off of it tomorrow.

[LTZ C20]

I had no idea they made one for fuel filters. I know GM has been putting the air filter ones on trucks for years, had no idea they had ones just like them for fuel. I'm eventually going to put an air filter one on my truck but that's so far down the list of things to do, I've put it off for over a year now lol.

[Engineer]

The fuel filter minder is a Fleetguard part. Part# 3982577S or 3892576S

[LTZ C20]

Oh those are cool.

[Flyinhillbilly]

Just read through a whole bunch of this thread, awesome stuff. It's funny you mention Jack Willman as I've actually done some work for him. He's invited me to his place and I should probably go.