trailing arm's in squarebody??

[pinheadandy1]

Will the stock trailing arm suspension and related suspension component's from a 67-72 swb c10 work in a 73-87 swb c10? I'm sure some mods will be necessary which doesn't bother me. I'm just mainly concerned with wether the crossmember will work with the later frame and if the length of the arms is OK. Everything else I think can worked out without to much trouble. Unless there is some major issue I am missing?? The reason I ask is because I would like to upgrade my 78 swb to something other than a leaf susp. Preferably without spending to much. I know CPP makes a kit and there's many other aftermarket options. The reason I ask is I have a lead on an almost complete good condition stock rear trailing arm suspension. I just want to make sure it'll work before I pull the trigger. Thanx

Andy

[Captkaos]

Will it work, sure if you have the fab skills. 
Will it bolt in, no.
67-72 have shorter wheelbases than 73-87's
Making the trailing arm mount fit the frame is one of the issues.

[pinheadandy1]

Well as far as fabrication skills I think ill be alright. For my day job I am a certified aerospace/nuclear Tig welder. With 90% percent of my work being xrayed and held to very tight tolerances. I can make it work or even fab a complete new setup using the original as a sample to work off of.

My problem is I dont really know much about suspension geometry, and haven't been able to find much info on it. Of course im probably not looking in the right places. What I would need to know are things like the correct mounting points, what length the arms should be, and the best way to configure the center mount?? Im OK as far as pinion angle and rearend centering and placement.

Having said all that Im starting to think I would be better off to run an aftermarket 4link/4bar from a company like Morrison, Alston, SD etc.... With the end result being more adjustability at not much more cost. Especially if you take into consideration my fab time and materials that will be required for the trailing arm setup.   

Let me know what you guys think. Thanx

Andy

[Captkaos]

ART makes a bolt in Air setup as does KP Components,  really simplifies the process.

As for lenght and mounting points, I would mark the centerline of the current axle and place the trailing arm setup in the same location and mount it in the same configuration as what it came out of eliminating guess work.

[pinheadandy1]

Thanx Captkaos...

Thats a pretty good idea I might just go take some measurements to find exactly "how much reworking I would have to do..

I like the ART and KP stuff except for a couple things. There a little expensive for my taste. Plus I wish the KP had heavier bars than 1" and id rather go a little lower than the ART Airbar can go. I really like the Suicide Doors 4link but I have one reservation about it. The axle tube appears to mount right in the center between the two bars. Where on most other 4links the top bar is mounted closer to the axle tube. I just have the feeling that the top bar is going to hit the bed when aired out. I dont mind cutting the bed out for the frame and diff. I just dont want the 4link bars to come through the bed aswell, and id rather not raise the floor either.... 

[N2TRUX]

I like the ART and KP stuff except for a couple things. There a little expensive for my taste. Plus I wish the KP had heavier bars than 1" and id rather go a little lower than the ART Airbar can go.

I understand your concern about price , but how low do you want to go? The ART AirBar will allow you to go till your pumpkin hits the bed floor.

[Captkaos]

I was hoping you would post yours in here N2TRUX.

[pinheadandy1]

Thanx Capt and N2trux

Really I would like to go a little lower than what I think the Airbar will allow. You guys would definitely be able to verify that for me. Speaking of which N2TRUX your truck is killer, very inspirational.  I would like to get the stance of my truck to look pretty close to Agent Orange's truck if you guys remember his. Basically my best guesstimate would be to put the pumpkin 1-2" lower than the Airbar will go when aired out. I will also be running 15" rally's at least for the time being. 

As far as the Airbar goes what size and wall thickness are the bars they use? N2TRUX if memory serves your truck now has an Airbar?? Is so could you possibly post a side view aired out, and or tell me how far below or if the pumpkin is touching the bed floor when aired out. Thanx

Andy 

[N2TRUX]

Andy- First let me thank you for the kind words about my truck. They are truly enjoyed and appreciated.

I do not know what the diameter of the link bars are. I can measure them if you feel it's important. My pumpkin was fairly close to the bed floor before we installed the AirBar. The notch is a little deeper, but the stop is a bit taller.

Here is a pic of the truck aired out with the AOL set up. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=482669&stc=1&d=1248792592

[pinheadandy1]

Hey N2TRUX thanx very much for the pic..

I wouldn't want you to go to too much trouble, but any information you can give would be a big help and be greatly appreciated. All im really trying to do is make the best decision I can before spending alot of money or alot of time fabricating something. So you mention the Airbar has more room under it? Would it be safe to say that with a different or small bumpstop plus maybe a small raised pocket in the bedfloor for the pumpkin. That the Airbar could go 1 or more inches lower than your truck??
 
The reason I ask about the diameter and wall thickness of the bars is because. Most other brands I see (Alston, Morrison, Suicide doors etc etc) make their link kits with bars like 1.250, 1.375, 1.5 inch dia. bars. Where as KP (ART?? no idea) makes there's with 1 inch. Mostly I just wonder what the reason is for the smaller bars if so many other respected companies use bigger. Especially since at a later date I plan on upping the horsepower to the 500ish range. I wouldn't want to put more stress on the setup I decide to go with than what it is designed to handle,  and then have to rebuild something because of it.

Thanx for all your guys help so far..

Andy   

[N2TRUX]

I tried to add more pics last night but the system was fighting me so I will try again.
Here is a pic at full lift with the AOL system

[N2TRUX]

Lets try this

[N2TRUX]

So you mention the Airbar has more room under it? Would it be safe to say that with a different or small bumpstop plus maybe a small raised pocket in the bedfloor for the pumpkin. That the Airbar could go 1 or more inches lower than your truck??   

I will have to verify that there is no ther restrictions, but yes I think you could go lower. The stop that is there now is probably 1.5" tall. If you went with a button stop it would give you at least 3/4-1" more drop assumimg there are no other limitations.

[pinheadandy1]

Wow That Airbar is starting to sound like a pretty good option. If it could go about an 1" lower than that would put the rear pretty darn close to where I want it... Now I just need to verify that it wont have any trouble with some extra power. Im sure it is pretty strong I haven't seen anything of low quality come from ART..

Thanx again N2TRUX

Andy

[pinheadandy1]

OK.. So i found the bar specs on ART's website 1 1/4" OD with .188" wall. Which sounds pretty good to me. I like the KP 6link alot the 14" of travel would be nice. Its just the one inch bars seem so puny (maybe its just me, I never claimed to be any sort of engineer)... I might just end up going with the Airbar...

Once again thanx for all the help guys!

Andy