clanking sound in engine when starting

[77 cc lb]

hey everyone! i've got a situation. i went to go  start my 74 292-6 i heard a clanking sound for a couple seconds and then she started. next day go to start clanking louder, little longer and starts. today clanking same, start and then 10 miles down the road starts spitting and sputtering. then i get off highway and dies on me. go to start it about 6 hrs. later try to re-start, clanks and starts, drive about 10 miles to get it home and she dies again. now  it turns over while making clanking sound but won't start. could it be timing chain, crankshaft, distributor? any ideas would be appreciated. thanks

[Blazin]

Because of the stalling part it might not be, but it can't hurt to check the flywheel / flex plate?

[Donut]

Can you pinpoint a little closer on the clanking?  Is it getting fuel?  I personally haven't touched a 6 in years.
I asked about fuel because when I first got my truck I had a noise i couldn't identify, turns out the arm on my mechanical fuel pump was broken and would only work part time.

Is the clanking only when you try to start or when it's running also?

[77 cc lb]

i checked the flywheel today and the teeth seemed fine, some had a groove on side of teeth but not all. i thought it was the fuel pump also but i cut it out all together and just running elec. pump, but still having trouble getting fuel. i got it to run again today somehow and drove another 8-10 miles and seemed like it was slipping out of gear. would press on gas and just stop going, let off and fuel would start flowing again.

[77 cc lb]

hoping to get some more feedback. in reply to donut, it does'nt seem to make the noise while running. i pulled fuel pump, arm is fine, pulled dist. and gears and shaft are'nt mangled. could it be a rod or something internal. i'm going to drain oil and start checking around the bottom end. any ideas greatly appreciated!!

[77 cc lb]

found out today i have 1 of tha bolts loose on the flywheel. any tricks or short cuts to movin tranny greatly appreciated!!

[jaredts]

You can get some long bolts or all thread the same thread as the correct ones (bellhousing to engine).  This will allow you to slide it back and then make it easy to slide back up to the engine without muscling it into place (is muscling a word???).

[77 cc lb]

so i just put longer bolts in and disconnect the driveshaft and then pull back.

[jaredts]

so i just put longer bolts in and disconnect the driveshaft and then pull back.

You got it.  Of course you still need to support the weight of the transmission on a jack, but it won't try to slide around on you and makes it a lot easier.

[77 cc lb]

thanks jaredts,i appreciate that info. is there an easy way to disconnect driveshaft from tranny. sorry, not experienced in engine and trans work. thanks again

[ccz145a]

is there an easy way to disconnect driveshaft from tranny.

Easy or not, there is only one way. Unbolt the saddle straps at the rear end. If its a two-piece shaft, unbolt the support bearing in the middle. Mark orientation of shaft at the rear end yoke and center bearing to ensure the same balance when you put it back together.

[77 cc lb]

thanks for the info. i'm going to try and work this out.

[77 cc lb]

will i have to pull the tranny all the way out and down to put on a new flywheel or can i just move it back a few inches?

[Irish_Alley]

i haven't had to do it that way but the bolt ideal seams to make sense and if you pick up 4" bolts i would think that would be plenty to get a ratchet in there or at least a wrench

[Senior1978]

Hey....back in the day that is how we did it. put in long bolts to support. have a jackstand for added backup. use a flat combo wrench. Kinda like a "old style 7/16 tappet wrench." It is thinner, I personally would replace all the bolts. Use loctite red for added security. Put it all back together. go for a drive
Good Luck
Mark