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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks
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GM BLOCK
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Topic: GM BLOCK (Read 33572 times)
305chevy c-10
Frequent Member
Posts: 292
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #30 on:
January 13, 2011, 09:12:57 pm »
never mind......did reserch ...377 not good for street ...............400 with a 350 crank .......just thought i may save from having to purchase a $700 stroker kit .......hey will the cog belt setup also use a reverse rot water pump or not .....
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Heartbeat of America yesterday's cheverolet
18T5C10
beastie_3
Senior Member
Posts: 3170
Josh
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #31 on:
January 13, 2011, 09:42:20 pm »
i believe it just matters what the bore size is as far as 377 vs 383. Why is a stroker not good for the street?
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79 K10
Semper Fi
73-87 Chevy Trucks Facebook Page
305chevy c-10
Frequent Member
Posts: 292
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #32 on:
January 13, 2011, 11:07:03 pm »
more for high rpm setups ......383's are better for street nice torque ........i was just having brain farts ......thinking a 377 would be a lot cheaper........oh yeah .jim thanks for those pics with detailed info.
.....i really learned something helpful ...............this is better than google
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Heartbeat of America yesterday's cheverolet
18T5C10
screamin86
Junior Member
Posts: 661
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #33 on:
January 14, 2011, 01:05:08 am »
I believe a 377 is a stroked 350 with stock bore. Which means if you were to bore it .030 it would be a "383"
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86 k10 lwb 4x4:350 .040 214/224 444/466 112lsa performer rpm 1406 lt's summit racing th350 2800stall
03 yukon xl:tint debadge full boltons
86 ta:lm7 hot cam boltons
beastie_3
Senior Member
Posts: 3170
Josh
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #34 on:
January 14, 2011, 11:24:29 am »
305, so you think a 377 is good for high RPMs and a 383 is good for street torque?
«
Last Edit: January 14, 2011, 12:25:35 pm by beastie_3
»
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79 K10
Semper Fi
73-87 Chevy Trucks Facebook Page
TexasRed
Junior Member
Posts: 727
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #35 on:
January 14, 2011, 12:15:59 pm »
Well, a 350 block with a 3.76 stroke is like 378 (on the stock bore size of 4"). Traditionally the 400 block with a 350 crank is called the 377 (.030 over the stock 4.125 bore). And yes, because of the shorter strokes and large diameter bore, people think the 377 will rev pretty high and quicker than say a 400 or a 383 with the longer crank throw. It's all in how you build the motor. The 377 will be more expensive than a 383. Plus if you've got a 400 block, build that.
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screamin86
Junior Member
Posts: 661
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #36 on:
January 14, 2011, 04:45:36 pm »
That's right I knew it was 377or 378 but for some reason I 378 didn't look right at the time I figures it up. Lol
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86 k10 lwb 4x4:350 .040 214/224 444/466 112lsa performer rpm 1406 lt's summit racing th350 2800stall
03 yukon xl:tint debadge full boltons
86 ta:lm7 hot cam boltons
305chevy c-10
Frequent Member
Posts: 292
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #37 on:
January 14, 2011, 06:25:26 pm »
yeah its just something i read ....it basicly said a 377 is a high rpm engine
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Heartbeat of America yesterday's cheverolet
18T5C10
CanadianC10
Newbie
Posts: 65
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #38 on:
January 15, 2011, 09:43:05 pm »
A 377 is the same Idea as the 327 - 350 with a 307 crank .. short stroke is all that is benefit
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1984 C10 LWB
CADDY 507
TH400
Frame twister
12.59 @ 108 .. 1.94 sixty
305chevy c-10
Frequent Member
Posts: 292
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #39 on:
January 16, 2011, 12:26:50 am »
does itmatter what size rods i use in a 383 build 5.7 or 6.00
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Heartbeat of America yesterday's cheverolet
18T5C10
305chevy c-10
Frequent Member
Posts: 292
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #40 on:
January 16, 2011, 10:03:26 am »
found the answer .....6.00 are better more power.............does anything have to be done to my block to clear a 3.75 crank.............someone said something about notching the block near oilpan for crank clearance ......i think this was refer to old 383 when people used 400 cranks and ground down the mains to fit a 350 block mains .........before aftermarket started making them ready to install
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Heartbeat of America yesterday's cheverolet
18T5C10
bobcooter
Junior Member
Posts: 788
1979 Scottsdale C-20
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #41 on:
January 16, 2011, 11:51:03 am »
A friend of mine was telling me about building a 358. He used the stock 350 crank with 6 inch rods. He said it made more torque than his 383.
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'79 C-20, 350/400, 3:73 gears, 9 leafs and a headache rack
Favorite Quote, "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement."
TexasRed
Junior Member
Posts: 727
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #42 on:
January 16, 2011, 12:19:59 pm »
You'll probably have to grind on the block some. I did with an aftermarket crank. Both the oil pan rails and a few small parts of the block. You'll also have to notch the oil pan gasket. I recommend getting a gasket set with a one piece oil pan gasket.
5.7 vs. 6.0 I don't think is going to make a hill of beans difference for the street. In fact the 6.0 rods may add quite a bit to the price as you the pistol selection is slimmer.
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VileZambonie
Global Moderator
Senior Member
Posts: 19181
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #43 on:
January 16, 2011, 12:34:35 pm »
Those 3 raised machined and tapped holes in the lifter valley do not mean it is a roller equipped engine. GM included the provisions in them all like that (86-87 up) even if they were not equipped with a roller cam. The only way to really tell if you have the roller set up is to actually see the retainer and lifters installed.
Let's help each other out or post nothing at all. K?
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`()_);-;()_)--o--)_)
74 GMC
,
75 K5
,
84 GMC
,
85 K20
,
86 k20
,
79 K10
Jim Rockford
Banned
Frequent Member
Posts: 358
Re: GM BLOCK
«
Reply #44 on:
January 16, 2011, 04:25:35 pm »
Think you are a bit late to the party, I covered the fact that the roller blocks could come and can use flat tappet cams.
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1973 k20 Camper special
1980 k20 custom deluxe
2004 Crown Vic LX sport
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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks
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GM BLOCK