quick 700r4 question

[TexasRed]

At first I thought that was the same as the mr. gasket, but it appears to be MUCH more adjustable. I'll try that in the morning, after I replace my vw rabbit's battery. 

Thanks again guys!

[TexasRed]

Hmm, well, checking summitracing.com: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-24283/

I have to buy an extra part to make it work for a 700r4.

[HAULIN IT]

Tex, After looking at your pictures I agree with the idea that it seems as you would have a bunch of slack in your throttle cable (pedal laying close to the floor) with it hooked up. I realize it's not in place in your pictures, however it looks as though it's running uphill from the bracket to the carb. This needs to be close to a straight line. Maybe you could add a plate with the bolt holes to raise the upper portion to make it straighter. I've never been a fan of the adjustable ones that Vile posted, too weak & too many things to work loose, ect.
 Event asked about the bracket I've used. The one on my truck is a modified version of the GM flat one that bolts to the carb only. It did not allow full throttle originally. After the cutting & welding, the offset is very similar to your Black bracket. It is now just used for the throttle since changing to the electronic trans, however the 700 worked great with this bracket for several years. After needing a new throttle cable I found several lenghts of cables that were supposed to be the same/correct...I'm not talking the total, the cable portion compared to the jacket. I believe this could be some of yours & others trouble with it working out right. If I held the carb end the same, the other end was 1/2" different. When I bottomed out the jacket toward the carb end, the cable & jacket was a good 1/2" shorter on the one. I "fixed" a similar problem on a friend's vehicle by cutting a slot on one of the flats of a small nut & slid it over the cable between the pedal & the crimped on end (shortening the total of the cable).
Hope this helps in some way, Lorne

 

[TexasRed]

Hmm. Well it looks like I may hit the junkyard today. To run the 700r4, I have to buy that extra bracket and I can't seem to get that local without paying and waiting the same as if I buy it from summit. Looks like summit may sell a similar one under their one name. . . .Hmm. . . If I had a welder, I'd agree with you regarding modifying something a bit firmer than the adjustables, but since I do not. . . .

Oh and thanks for the picture, it all helps.

[eventhorizon66]

I still say you can modify that black bracket to work for you.  Looks like it would just be a matter of drilling two holes after you figure out where you want it.  Should be easy to get both cables moved toward the carb .25"-.5"  It's free and you can do it in minutes, so it's gotta be worth a try.

[TexasRed]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8032/

I don't think that bracket leaves a lot of room. I may get .25". Heck, let me take everything off and try.

[TexasRed]

Update: I'm close!! A friend drilled a new hole and that seems to work. One more click on the ole adjuster and away I went. I need to drill another hole as the bracket will move if pushed around. There's a teensy bit of slack in the throttle cable now, but that should be ok.

[eventhorizon66]

Just make sure you can reach WOT before the accel pedal bottoms out on the floorboard.  Then readjust the TV cable.

You asked earlier if you can adjust the effective length of the throttle cable from in the cab.  Yes, as Haulin It described above (in case you didn't catch that).  Lift the accel pedal up to expose the steel cable where it meets the top of the pedal rod and check for shims or other modifications made.  Maybe post a pic.

[TexasRed]

Actually, most of the little slack that I had was taken up I think when I set the mixture screws to 2 turns out. It's weird, I can keep screw the mixture screws out and the idle keeps going up which I have to reset to 700 or so. Anyway, I set it back to 2 turns, and set the idle to 750 rpm. It's a lot better now. It shifts at 15-20mph and then it seems to downshift when I hit WOT too.


Also, there's 2 vacuum switches under the hood, one looks like for the distributor delay and the other the TCC? The delay is on the left and the TCC one on the right? I think I can get rid of that distributor thing because it's an accel distributor.

[eventhorizon66]

My TCC vac switch is located near the power brake booster.  I have the vacuum line for it running through a thermally operated switch and then to the ported vacuum source.

What is the "distributor thing" currently hooked up to?

It's weird, I can keep screw the mixture screws out and the idle keeps going up which I have to reset to 700 or so.

Maybe you could benefit from drilling out the idle mixture screw holes a bit?

Do you know what the specs are on your carb for all the restrictions, bleeds, etc.?

[TexasRed]

The distributor thing is hooked up to wires that go into the cab. I'm thinking it works in conjuction with ESC.

Well, I may try adjusting the mixture screws later, it seems to run well here. Very smooth in the cab at idle but I can hear the exhaust (headers and glass packs don't help). I don't have the settings as the carb builder kinda holds those close to his heart. I could drive the truck to where he's at and he'll redo any settings using that 4 gas analyzer. Hmmm, I may be able to swing it into get some fishing done too.