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I'm going to use a sewing needle as the applicator to give me a high degree of control. On the larger 3+3 lettering and the fender badges I'll likely use something like a stick from a corn dog. I'll post a couple of pics tonight
Quote from: bake315 on May 05, 2011, 09:31:30 am I'm going to use a sewing needle as the applicator to give me a high degree of control. On the larger 3+3 lettering and the fender badges I'll likely use something like a stick from a corn dog. I'll post a couple of pics tonightSo...does this confirm that we are REALLY on the edge of insane about our trucks? But corn dog sticks??? LOLIts gonna be a few days guys till I get to post some pics...busy schedule over the next several days.Wow...even spelled everything right the first time!
im sorry i didnt read every post BUT what i've always done is use model kit paint, then make sure i get a good layer of clear lacquer over the painted area
Quote from: txchainsawgogi on May 05, 2011, 03:03:17 pmim sorry i didnt read every post BUT what i've always done is use model kit paint, then make sure i get a good layer of clear lacquer over the painted areaYeah, I've been doing some testing using the model paint along with the typical spray bomb stuff. One of the things I've seemed to struggle with in regards to the clear lacquer is applying it and it not causing the paint underneath to lift. I'm almost afraid to try it on these emblems for fear that it'd ruin all the hard work. How well does the model paint handle UV?
Could it be that the lifting comes from mixing enamel with a lacquer? I was thinking that the clear coat might be beneficial and could be sprayed over the entire emblem. You have to be careful, I was looking at some rattle cans today and some were lacquer and some enamel.