Ok new info on old problem

[Skunksmash]

Ok I finally got time to run to codes on my engine, and try to figure out why its sort of cutting out at certain RPM's, and why it just dies randomly when I'm driving. It can be restarted, but it takes longer then it should to start. But it pretty much always takes longer than it should to start. You have to crank on it for about... I'd guess about 2.5 seconds to get it to start. Unless you've already tried to start it and didn't hold down the switchkey long enough. Then it fails to start, but when you try again, it starts up like its supposed to. Fast. Anyway, here is the data from my scanner. This is live data from when I had the truck running at idle, in park, at normal operating temperature. So some of the data would fluctuate slightly as little things changed here and there. As for trouble codes... there weren't any.  

PROM ID:  9821

BATTERY VOLTAGE LOW:  NO

RICH/LEAN FLAG:  LEAN

LOOP STATUS:  OPEN

ENGINE RPM:  775

THROTTLE SENSOR:  0.86 VOLTS

INTEGRATOR:  128 (I don't know what this is supposed to be or mean)

O2 sensor:  It fluctuated between 134-145 volts when the truck was warming up. Once it got warm went back and forth from 114-123 volts

AIR DIVERT SOLENOID:  ON

KNOCK SENSOR:  0 (I don't really know what it means by "0". Is that supposed to be zero voltage? Or maybe it means that the truck is not equipped with a knock sensor?)

BLOCK LEARN:  126 (Never heard of whatever this is)

02 CROSS COUNTS:  122 (Not sure what this means either)


I left out some random stuff that was listed by the code reader, just cause it was irrelevant or I already knew what it was and that it didn't have any effect on the problem. Such as the coolant temp, which was 183 degrees. And that the vehicle was in the Park gear, and was going 0 miles per hour. Just stuff we don't need. Everything else that the code reader gave is listed. Hope this info can help determine what the problem is.

[Skunksmash]

I've had people tell me that the EGR valve can cause similar problems, but how to find out without buying a new one? They're kind of expensive.

[topp]

Mine was under $30 at Autozone

[VileZambonie]

If you are at operating temperature it shouldn't be in open loop unless it has been idling long enough to cool down. Your TPS voltage is too high. Were you messing with the throttle stop screw? .55-.6V is ideal. Your O2 sensor is producing over 100 volts? Or are you reading milivolts? At operating temperature and the engine over 2000 RPM you should be rapidly switching between .100V and .900V or 100 - 900mv Double check this

[Skunksmash]

Oh sorry yeah that was supposed to be millivolts. I personally have never messed with the throttle screw. Is there some way I can check to make sure its in the right position? But I have no idea if its in the right spot. I have added a CFM brand throttle body spacer though. I will check what you said about the O2 sensor voltage.

There is one more kind of odd thing that is happening, that I mentioned in the other thread about this problem. When I've been driving for a while, the engine light starts to come on, but only when I hit the accelerator. As soon as I let off, it goes off. And then when I check the codes, it gives me nothing. But its weird cause when the light does come on, when I'm mashing the accelerator, it is dim. Its not on all the way. When the truck just dies randomly, that light is bright and in your face. But when its coming on due to me mashing the accelerator, its very dim. But it is there.