Dupont Nason

[Engineer]

Has anyone used DuPont Nason?

I am looking at using the Nason 491-35 Ful-Poxy primer/sealer. Follow that with the Nason Ful-Base, and finally top coating it with Nason 498-00 clear.

According to the Nason 491-35 T/M the primer/sealer can be applied to bare metal. It doesn't mention anything about using an etch primer on the bare metal before applying the 491-35. Specs list application using an HVLP gun, which is all that I have.

I am looking at simplicity, and this looks to be it.

Does anyone have any experience using this system?

Is it as simple as it sounds?

I was looking on a hot-rod forum, and some guy was laying out a paint job using Nason that required 13+ steps. I am not into that. I want to strip the old finish, fill some imperfections, clean, and prep, prime, and then fog the new coat on.

What say y'all?

[Blazin]

If you strip the entire old finish you will need some sort of etching primer, or epoxy primer followed by a high build urethane primer. Sand the urethane, with 320 or finer, and paint.
I have used Nason primers, and paint before. Thet arent bad for the buck.

[jaredts]

Blazin's right.  Your current plan is to use epoxy primer (491-35) and then base, clear.  Epoxy is great on bare metal, but you really should put on a high build primer and block sand before adding base/clear.  You might think everything is perfect, but without that step it will likely look like a kid did the work.  Plan on spending a little extra time and money for a high build primer (probably a 2k urethane) after the epoxy.

[Engineer]

Thanks for the replies.

After some looking about, here is where I am at now. Following you guy's recommendations I have added 2K urethane to the processes....

1)Strip paint from body, apply wax/grease remover.

2)Fix minor body imperfections, dents, etc.

3)Nason 491-35 epoxy primer/sealer. DuPont says 1 coat, or 2 if looking for more corrosion protection.

4)Follow that with Nason 421-19 gray 2K urethane primer. Dupont recommends more thin coats as opposed to a couple thick coats to prevent trapping solvent.

5)After the 2K urethane I plan to allow it to dry in order to block sand. DuPont recommends 400 or finer. Wet, or dry. I'm thinking wet. 

6)Treat once more with wax/grease remover.

7)After the block sand I look to put on the Nason Ful-Base 430-xx, as many coats as needed to get color, let it flash, then apply Nason 498-00 overall, multi panel clear.

I have read where the bodywork should be done OVER the epoxy primer, and under the 2K urethane, but I prefer to do the body work directly to the steel, then coat.

Please opine. Tell me what to do different.

[VileZambonie]

Why do you want to strip it? Just take care of the bad areas and sand the whole body. Prime, block, paint

[Engineer]

Why do you want to strip it? Just take care of the bad areas and sand the whole body. Prime, block, paint

Since the fenders, doors, hood, and bedsides are late production.....bedsides are off of an '82, the rest is from a 1991 Suburban, I probably won't strip those.

However, the cab has much steel work to be done, and it has been repainted before. The GM paint is long gone. In just a couple of test scuffs I found the top coat to be laying directly over sheet metal. I'll just feel more at ease with a totally bare cab to start.

[Blazin]

I do my body work over bare steel as well. Just how I was taught 20 plus years ago.
 More thin coats are better than a couple heavy coats.
 As far as block sanding if you have allot of waves or are looking to get it supper strait I recommend 3 to 4 mils plus of urethane primer, then guide coat, and block sand it with 180, then 220. Then apply 4 plus mils of urethane again. Then wet sand with 400 and 600 grit paper