Author Topic: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...  (Read 15611 times)

Offline Sodium Duck

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Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« on: September 27, 2011, 06:51:12 pm »
So, we all make mistakes. I tend to make expensive ones. I have no idea... Just not thinking and tired. I was also listening to Car Talk, which may have caused a severe decrease in brain function.

Basically, I went to press out my old ball joints and this is where the fun started. Not only did I start on the upper (pressing in the wrong direction) but I forgot to remove the preload sleeve. And I didn't even take the steering knuckle out of the yoke. I just started pressing it. I swear I wasn't drunk.

The preload sleeve looks like it got pushed down 1/4" at the most. Not sure how bad the threads are, but obviously it's going to be bad. And I don't have a spanner socket to back it out and see the real extent of the damage.

Is this axle housing pretty much unsafe to fix/use now? I do not want to take any chances with this.

And be kind, I've had a crappy week with too much on my mind. Bathroom renovation is stalling (going on 3 months), found active termites in the basement, problems at work, broke up with the ball and chain, etc. I'm not smiling right now.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 07:02:11 pm by Sodium Duck »
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2011, 06:52:36 pm »
Oh and I'm sorry... brain still not working. It's an '85 K10.
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2011, 07:24:53 pm »
you can use a punch and hammer to remove the sleeve. i dont think you can really damage the threads. heck iv'e not even changed them out before just adjusted them and be done but this was on a mudder that prob was going to be taken back apart soon
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline bake74

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2011, 08:21:20 pm »
     For sure you need to get the sleeve out and check for damage, if none is evident i would say it is ok, but rent a spanner wrench to put it back in and check for proper adjustments before you slap everything back together.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2011, 08:26:51 pm »
just realize i wasnt clear what i said. you can take the punch and use it with the hammer to turn the sleeve out
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2011, 06:13:30 pm »
Used a punch and hammer to get the sleeve out. No damage to the threads. I'm in the clear, thank God.
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline bake74

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #6 on: September 30, 2011, 09:47:55 am »
     Good to hear, now you can put it back together and start driving your truck again.
#1: The easiest and most obvious solution to any problem is 99% of the time correct.
#2: There is no such thing as impossible, it just takes longer.
  74 k10, 77k10    Tom

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2011, 06:24:35 pm »
I should've looked at this before I took everything apart, but where should I have the grease fitting point on the upper ball joint? Straight at the axle, more to the front of the truck or more to the rear of the truck?
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Senck243

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Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2011, 07:02:00 pm »
Is the sleeve reverse thread? I can't get the sleeve out
1984 k10 305, sm465, np208

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2011, 10:15:56 pm »
Normal thread. Have you removed the steering knuckle yet? That sleeve won't budge until all the pressure is off it.
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Senck243

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Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2011, 02:15:28 pm »
I actually got the passenger side completely removed. The driver side I can't get the steering arm off. The three bolts are off it is just stuck. Do you need a puller or special tool ?
1984 k10 305, sm465, np208

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #11 on: November 07, 2011, 12:32:41 pm »
It would've been best to leave the steering arm alone. The nuts are NOT reuseable, and are expensive and hard to find online. ORD has them for like 40 or 50 bucks shipped. I hope you're installing a lift or something and putting a raised steering arm on.

If beating on the steering arm with a BFH didn't do anything, then you're going to need heat... and a bigger BFH. I gave up on mine and brought it to my buddies shop. No special tool or puller. Just cone washers, studs, nuts and rust.

Oh and as a side thought... Did you buy the spanner socket to put your preload nut back in? Start looking for it now (or making your own out of an old socket). Your local auto parts stores probably won't have it. And it ain't cheap. I found mine at a specialty shop for 35 bucks. Cheapest I could find online was 20 bucks before shipping.
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.

Offline Daytona#3895

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2011, 07:26:54 pm »
Ok. I am in the process of doing the exact same thing on my truck. It needed u-joints and when I got the axle out, I noticed the knuckle moved with relative ease up and down. I could use a little clairification on the steps involved. After removing the knuckle, press the lower out first. Now do you have to replace the sleeve when chaging the upper ball joint? Does it have to be removed before pressing the joint out? Thanks for the help
1987 Chevy Silverado V-10
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona
1968 Chevy Camaro SS
1996 Jeep Cherokee
2004 Jeep Wrangler

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2011, 10:06:05 am »
you should replace the sleeve and it can come out after you remove the joint
If you can’t tell yourself the truth, who can you tell it to?~Irish_Alley

When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth ~Sherlock Holmes

Offline Sodium Duck

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Re: Removing balljoints on a 10-bolt...
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2011, 06:25:00 pm »
The new balljoint will come with the sleeve. Or at least it should...
1985 K10, corporate 10-Bolts front and rear, 6" lift, 35's, 305, auto, longbed.