Clarifications on flip kit with performance engine

[pocket5s]

So I've been doing some research on a flip kit for my 87. From what I understand:

A) the flip itself should get me the 5" I'm looking for

B) if I get shock extenders I don't need to get special lowering shocks i.e. standard shocks will do

C) when I see a kit with "welded saddles" I presume that where the the axle sits in, like the factory perch, which is then welded to the axle. This doesn't seem required but makes it stronger/better. I'm guessing this would help prevent issues with item D below(?)

D) I have a decent engine in front of this. A 500hp/500lb-ft 383. I will be running it at the drags occasionally so I planned on getting caltracs for a flipped axle.

I have a welder so I'm not afraid to weld whatever needs to be done, just not sure how much I should get vs. how much I need to get. For example on summit, jus t looking at the djm kits they have one with everything for 280, one with no extensions but welded saddles for 190 and one with shock extensions but no saddles for 85. I don't mind making my own notch with pipe as I've seen suggested in other posts but the rest I'm unsure about.

My goal is a 3/5 drop with spindles up front. I would like a 4/6 but I don't think my headers and exhaust will like that and from what else I've read on here going the extra inch in the rear means new shackles and shimming for pinion angle.

In case it matters, the truck is a daily driver for me so ride is important.

Anything I missed?

[Captkaos]

A) the flip itself should get me the 5" I'm looking for

Depending on the manufacturerand type of spring you could get 5-7"

B) if I get shock extenders I don't need to get special lowering shocks i.e. standard shocks will do

Yes, that is correct

C) when I see a kit with "welded saddles" I presume that where the the axle sits in, like the factory perch, which is then welded to the axle. This doesn't seem required but makes it stronger/better. I'm guessing this would help prevent issues with item D below(?)

Didn't know they offered them in welded or non-welded, but it should lip under the factory perch with a small amount of movement, I recommend running a small bead on each side after verifying pinion angle.

D) I have a decent engine in front of this. A 500hp/500lb-ft 383. I will be running it at the drags occasionally so I planned on getting caltracs for a flipped axle.

I ran mine for 11 years with a flip behind a built 454/M22 and raced it regularly with no issues.  Just set you rear pinion angle and weld it in place, it will only have a slight amount of movement unless they seriously changed the way they make them.  The last Western Kit I got in 2003 was just like what I got in 1988...

... from what else I've read on here going the extra inch in the rear means new shackles and shimming for pinion angle.

  Mine is dropped 4/6 with just a flip and a LCA/Springs in front and my pinion angle wasn't an issue.  If you have HD 56" springs, or a Longbed, you will most likely need to shim for correct pinion angles.

[pocket5s]

Thanks for the reply. I do have a long bed so I'll be sure to double check the pinion on it.