Just another dumb stereo thread...... Sorry...

[firefighter]

You receive the part(s) illustrated on the website.  The panel has a black, textured plastic veneer that blends nicely with the texture of the instrument panel.  You may need to trim the panel ever so slightly for a perfect fit.  Don't cut the dash until you have the panel to use as a template!

After you've cut the dash & instrument panel and installed your wiring harness, 1) Install the instrument panel, 2) install the textured plate, 3) install the DIN cage and lock the tabs through the dash, 4) install the radio, 5) attach the radio rear support and finish it off.

Thank you for the reply bd,
If you ever wanted to pull your instrument panel off with the DIN cage still in place, could you? I mean after pulling your radio out of course.
I took a spare instrument panel yesterday and carefully cut the rectangular opening in it. Then I put the instrument panel into the truck and marked the metal dash. Then pulled the instrument panel back out and cut the metal dash. Then I mounted the DIN cage into the instrument panel and bent the tabs. I'm telling ya, it was gonna look good....... but then I found I couldn't get the instrument panel (with the DIN cage installed) back into place. That 2" of DIN cage mounted into the instrument panel was a deal breaker.
To me, it appears that if you mount it the way you explained, that you'd have to pull the radio (of course) and the DIN cage out if you ever needed to remove the instrument panel for any reason. Is this correct?
I guess maybe I'm over thinking this, but having to back track that much if I simply ever wanted to remove the instrument panel was a little odd to me.
Am I overlooking something here?

Thanks be being patient with me while I overthink this.   

[bd]

If you ever wanted to pull your instrument panel off with the DIN cage still in place, could you?  ...I found I couldn't get the instrument panel (with the DIN cage installed) back into place....  To me, it appears that if you mount it the way you explained, that you'd have to pull... the DIN cage out if you ever needed to remove the instrument panel for any reason. Is this correct?

The answer to your question lies on the first page of this thread:

...if you ever need to remove the dash plate to service the cluster, etc, you have the added steps of unbending the tabs to remove the subchassis....

Actually, it takes only about 5 additional minutes to remove the DIN chassis. 

I also have an automatic trans.  I've removed the instrument panel w/o removing the DIN chassis, but had to flex the instrument panel excessively and will not do it that way again.  The I/P will flex only so far w/o breaking.   

Thanks be being patient with me while I overthink this.   

You're not overthinking, you're planning!     

All this typing is making me thirsty....   

[thirsty]

All this typing is making me thirsty....   

Hey....I resemble that last remark! 

[thirsty]

But, if you ever need to remove the dash plate to service the cluster, etc, you have the added steps of unbending the tabs to remove the subchassis. 

This is what I have to do also. With the head unit that is in mine now I do not have the tabs bent to hold the mounting bracket to the bezel. I plan on changing it out again at some point down the road. Mine is cut in very tight and I made a brace to hold the back of it solid. I wish mine had the option of letting the head unit stick out about a 1/4" so that I could install the mounting bracket on the metal part of the dash instead of in the plastic bezel. I can't put the trim piece on mine any other way.

I never would cut a dash in one of our trucks before. I am glad I did now even if it poses some installation headaches.
Firefighter: I'm sure your end result will be quality. Keep us updated on the install process!

[firefighter]

Thanks again guys,

Oh yes bd, I re-read your post and now see where you posted that. My mind had been in a frazzle lately dealing with all this stereo and amp stuff. This is a whole new realm of things I've never dealt with before.
Heck, the radio I had in my truck before was the same one I had in a 1973 4 door boat (slang for BIG car) I had when I graduated High School !!   Can you say time for an upgrade?   

Anyway, I'm not going to order a mounting plate. Now that I know how this works, my wheels are turning about how I can do this. The wheels may be a bit squeaky yet, but I'll lube them up.
Again, not a show truck, but CCR / Little River Band will never sound so good when I'm done.   

[bd]

Can't wait to see the finished product!      Wish I had that kind of talent!      MAyBe sOmedAY... 
I'm gonna go have a brew...

[Jason S]

Okay, I hope you haven't cut anything yet because I have the absolute greatest thing for you... 

For 1977 you could have from the Silver Book the following quality stereo from Delco:






However, if you're going to cut the dash and/or doors at least make it rock out...

[firefighter]

Okay, I hope you haven't cut anything yet because I have the absolute greatest thing for you...

Oh it's cut alright.   

Update and details to follow in the next few days.....

[firefighter]

Ok, I'm going to update this thread to show what I did.
Is there only one way to do what I did? No
Was it totally necessary? No, but it was a challenge
Can I easily remove the instrument panel without removing the DIN cage? Yes
Am I happy I did it this way? Yes
Am I anal about insignificant things like this? Yes   

I probably could have used one of those plastic installation face plates you can get since you can see just a small bit of the factory panels contour, but I'm happy. If you can see the imperfections, you're looking too close since it's a work truck. I spent way too much time on this step.

I cut the dash first to see how I could mount the DIN cage rigidly to the metal.
You can kind of see the 3 mounting holes I drilled and tapped in the metal dash.


I mounted 2 metal angle plates rigidly to the DIN cage, spaced back from the front so when the cage was mounted, it was sticking out a bit to match the instrument panel face.


I painted the cage and brackets before I final mounted them so it was all black


This is what the radio looks like installed in the cage. I know, pretty boring.   


Here is what the instrument panel looks like installed without the radio. From here, I just pull the electrical connector out, plug it into the radio, slide the radio in to lock it in place and snap the trim plate on. Done deal


Finished look

[zieg85]

Nicely done, that shouldn't come loose...

[gto109]

I like your idea with the angle brackets.  I think I may end up doing that myself.

[bake74]

     That really looks good, you should be happy with that.

[Jason S]

It looks like you did a very clean install.

That being said, I really shouldn't have clicked on this post. 

[firefighter]

It looks like you did a very clean install.

That being said, I really shouldn't have clicked on this post. 

Ha Ha Mr. Jason !!!   

I know you've replied to this post a few times. I think most of us have faced this same decision.
You know, if the two post radios weren't so expensive, I most likely would have gone that route. But for less than that money, I bought this head unit, the amp, all the wiring and two extra speakers. Plus now I can play CD's if I want.
I'll be honest though, the two post design will mount right in and all you have to do is wire it. I had quite a bit of time working out all the measurements and details, but I do like the final results. The bonus is if I ever update the head unit any further in the future, it'll be ready.

That being said, can I loan you my cutoff tool?   Ha Ha !!!!!