Advice For Replacing A Fuel Tank Selector Valve?

[Burgersquatch]

'73 K10

Pretty sure the solenoid in my current valve is sticking and generally not liking the cold weather. It worked for a brief period of time when I visited slightly warmer temps and lower elevation (Lake Tahoe is 6,250ft) but after a couple days back in Tahoe it stopped working again. Has always shown the fuel level in both tanks, but when I flip the switch to the driver side tank, it still draws from the passenger tank.

I've already purchased the proper 3 port valve for my truck. Just wondering if there are any tips for swapping the new one in without getting gas everywhere and getting air in the lines.

My question is, do I have to plug all 3 fuel lines at the same time, or can I just pop the hoses one by one onto the new valve?

[Jason S]

When you remove the fuel lines there will be some gas that will come out, but it shouldn't siphon out.  The fuel in the line from the tank to the selector valve and from the selector valve to the fuel pump will come out.  As far as fuel in the lines, that isn't a problem.  You should still have gasoline in the carburetor to get the truck started (after the selector valve is removed and replaced).  Air in the fuel line won't hurt, and should flush out once everything is up and running. 

If you're using one of the replacement selector valve, like the borg-warner brand, you will want to verify that the hoses are installed to the correct ports for left and right side to operate correctly.  After you install the selector valve, if you find that the hoses are reversed (switched to left tank, but drawing from right tank), the fix is simply swap where the hoses attach to the selector ports.

So you can just pop the hoses one by one onto the new valve...