SM465 new clutch adjustment

[billthecat97]

Just spent a fun-filled couple of days replacing the shredded clutch disk in my son's '76 C-10 (250 six/SM465 2WD).  Aside from the fact I am nursing a sore wrist, when we drive the truck, the clutch pedal goes almost all the way to the floor before disengaging.  Pedal effort seems much easier now, since we lubed the heck out of everything as we reassembled, plus when we swapped out the 250 with one from a '76 Camaro there was no pilot bushing in the crank (came out of an automatic car).  Sorry to be rambling, but where is the adjustment for this clutch so it might disengage a little further away from the floorboard?  This is my first clutch job, and I am totally not in love with that SM465- it is a heavy pig, even with the trans jack.   Thanks for your responses in advance.

[rich weyand]

Assuming you have a stock setup: Between the bell crank (rotating shaft with two radial arms) and the clutch fork (arm that sticks out of the bell housing), there is a threaded rod.  It has a swivel and a lock nut on the end.  It mounts to the bell crank arm with two washers and a cotter pin.

Adjusting procedure: Remove cotter pin and washers.  Pull swivel out of bell crank arm.  Loosen lock nut.  Rotate swivel on arm (that is, lengthen or shorten arm) so that swivel will slide freely into gauge hole (upper hole) on bell crank arm when clutch pedal is all the way up and the throwout bearing is against the clutch blades.  Tighten lock nut.  Relocate swivel to lower hole.  Re-install washers and cotter pin.

[billthecat97]

Thanks Rich.  I saw another post on here about the number of springs the stock setup uses; fork to frame, pedal to dash, and another one from adjustable rod to fork.  This number of springs was for a 3/4 ton- is it the same for a 1/2 ton?  any pics?

[Engineer]

Pedal free travel should be around 2".

If you think the SM465 is heavy you should try a 13sp Roadranger.