I agree with the prior posts, but wish to fill in a few blanks...
Unbolt the caliper and collapse the piston. How easily does the piston retract into the caliper? If the piston binds and doesn't retract smoothly, replace the caliper.
Remove the pads. Use ~80 grit sandpaper to burnish the milled caliper slide faces and matching surfaces on the caliper supports of the steering knuckle. Be careful of sharp edges and burrs. The idea is not to remove metal, but clean away baked dirt and rust and polish the slides.
Procure a
caliper hardware kit and replace the rubber o-rings in the guide pin holes of the caliper. You'll need to push the guide pin spacers out of the caliper to replace the large o-rings. Use only the specified
silicone or synthetic brake grease to
sparingly lubricate the milled caliper slide faces and
liberally lubricate the o-rings. You don't need to slather the pins and, in fact, shouldn't, because exposed grease will collect dust and increase the possibility of excess grease falling onto the braking surface of the rotor and pads. Push the new guide pin spacers provided in the kit into the caliper using thumb pressure.
Make sure the outer pad fits snugly onto the caliper without rattling. Squeeze the mounting tabs of the outer pads together with large rib-joint pliers to pinch the caliper and tighten pad mounting as necessary. Install the inner pad with the new anti-rattle spring provided in the kit. It's prudent to install the pads using a little
CRC Disc Brake Quiet or equivalent anti-squeak compound. Reassemble the caliper onto the knuckle and torque the pins. Verify that the caliper slides smoothly back-and-forth,
before stepping on the brake to seat the pads.