Author Topic: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install  (Read 6303 times)

Offline Dbutl007

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Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« on: December 19, 2013, 10:35:53 am »
Hey guys so after finding out that both of fuel tanks on my 85 c10 are bad (leaking). I've decided to get rid of or just not use the passenger side tank. But since I'm going to be under the truck I've been thinking hard about installing an electric fuel pump. Its starting to get cold and id rather spend more time going rather than pumping the pedal. Has anyone ever downsized to 1 tank and added an electric fuel pump? I have a edelbrock 1405 carb and its gonna be a daily driver. the pump I'm thinking about using is

 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_electric-fuel-pump-mr-gasket_5400317-p?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986


What can I do to make this as simple as possible?

Offline Captkaos

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2013, 09:14:43 am »
I am not sure what exactly you are trying to solve. 

The truck is carb'd and it has a mechanical pump on it now which draws the gas to the carb.  why would you want to add an electrical pump to the mix?

Offline Dbutl007

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2013, 06:06:09 pm »
I was looking for a way to not pump the gas pedal in the mornings and when its been sitting for a week or two. Not sure if adding an electrical pump would was a solution or not.

Offline frotosride

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2013, 12:09:00 pm »
Changing the pump will not fix this issue. it may and most likely is the choke hanging up and when you pump the pedal often times it will cause the choke to close/reset. If you have a mechanical automatic choke it may be bad. they usually work off of engine temp and allow the choke to open as the engine warms. An easier and cheaper fix may be to switch to an electric choke. Or just replace the choke thermostat. Often times the rod slips and prevents the choke from being engaged but when you pump the pedal it will often reset and grab. But the more you do this without correcting the problem the worse it will seem to get..more pumping.
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline rich weyand

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2013, 12:42:00 pm »
Like frotosride said, not a fuel pump issue.  The fuel pump provides fuel to the float bowl in the carb.  After that, all fuel metering and such is done by the carb.

The two issues here are that 1) cold engines like to start on a rich mixture, and 2) on starting there is very little airflow through the carb, so no vacuum to pull fuel.  The solution is to push the pedal to the floor and hold it for a couple seconds.  Could be best to do this either once or twice.  What you are doing when you do that is using the accelerator pump, which squirts extra fuel into the carb bores for a second when you step on the gas pedal to make up for the fact that air flow will increase faster than fuel flow.  On starting, depressing the pedal to the floor and holding it for a couple seconds uses the accelerator pump to squirt fuel into the carb bores to give you a rich starting mixture.

If you find you have to pump the pedal a lot to get it started, it could be that you need new springs and seals in the accelerator pump of the carb.  These wear out over several years of use.  The symptoms are needing to pump the pedal several times to start, as well as having "lean sag" in the power delivery for a second or two when stepping on the gas, until the fuel delivery can catch up with the air flow.

So, how old is the carb, how many miles are on it, and have you ever replaced the accelerator pump springs and seals?  Usually, you just buy the accelerator pump assembly, and you get the piston, springs and seals all in one unit you just drop in.  It's Edelbrock #1470.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Edelbrock-Performer-Series-accelerator-pump-assembly-for-carburetors-1400-1403-1404-1405-1406-1805-1806-1825-and-1826/_/N-25vm?itemIdentifier=10722_0_0_
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift

Offline frotosride

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2013, 02:57:15 pm »
Rich, for the first few times I read your post and saw "working girl" I thought you were referring to yourself...but I did son realize that you mint the truck. I had to laugh at myself for that and everytime I see you post I have to laugh at myself.
"Beat it like a red-headed ford"
1987 v10 Silverado(LQ4), 87 R10,83 K20, 83 cucv 6.2 Detroit
2006 Boulevard M109R 109 cid,2019 M109R BOSS
2009 Jeep XK, (future LS Swap)
GSXR 750 engine awaiting go kart

Offline rich weyand

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2013, 03:25:30 pm »
The other fellows in the local cruise-in clubs kept telling me I should enter the truck in the car shows around here.  There is a car show within 25 miles of here every weekend all season.  Now, I don't want to do that, because I modified the truck to suit me, and I don't want to be tempted down the path of trying to please judges.  Most of the vehicles in these shows are not daily drivers.  They are primped and pampered and only taken out for the weekends -- if the weather is nice. 

So I told one of these fellows, when he said I should enter it in a show, "Nah.  These are all garage queens, and my truck's just a working girl."  The name stuck.

Second meaning: Everything on the truck works.  Letting something get by like the temp gauge not working or the 4x4 light not working or whatever -- is the beginning of the path to decrepitude.  They just pile up over time and overwhelm you.  So I stay on top of it.

Third meaning: She lets me ride her for money.  ;-)
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift

Offline Dbutl007

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2013, 08:35:56 pm »
@Frotosride,

Thanks for the info. Ill keep that in mind.

Offline Dbutl007

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2013, 08:44:10 pm »
@Rich,

Thanks a lot for the lesson. I bought the carb when I had the motor rebuilt about 4 yrs ago. Doesn't even have 800 miles on it. Im military so about 3 months after the motor rebuild I got station overseas for 3 yrs and the truck has been sitting in my parents backyard until about 2 months ago.


Offline rich weyand

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Re: Bad Fuel Tanks/electric pump install
« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2013, 12:52:08 am »
The accelerator pump seal could have age hardened more quickly than normal for not having been exercised and periodically wetted with fuel.

Test the accelerator pump in the following way.  All of this with the engine off.  Remove the air cleaner.  Make sure the choke is off.  By hand, push the throttle all the way open and hold it down while looking down the front two bores of the carburetor.  You should see a stream of fuel shooting into each of the bores for a second or so.  If you do, the accelerator pump is working.

BTW, when you start the truck, you are engaging the manual choke, correct?  Without the choke, the engine will get a lot more air, and therefore need a lot more gasoline, which will require more pedal pumping to get it started.

One last thing: Thank you for your service.
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift