My 78 k10 4x4 build thread -454 install / build -1 ton axles- frame restoration

[FearNoMan78k10]

Yeah some good news and some bad,,,, I've just been going through a rough time in life for awhile now just been feeling down... The block was put in the hot wash and then magnafluxed and was found to have no cracks! And they are painting the block chevy orange. Found out I have a forged crankshaft! And forged pistons but they are 25 years old or so, new though, but check this out the rods are stock ............. ?  Why on earth would you keep stock rods and go forged on everything else? Doesn't make sense, blocked is being decked, and apparently it is okay on the cylinders wall we don't even have to bore it out any at all. UNBELIEVABLE.  The mechanics are shocked. It is literally an act of God and a miracle . I don't care what other people say my Jesus who I believe so strongly in did something to this motor to fix it. Because it's fixed. And I was freaking out and so were the mechanics, after seeing the damage we all knew it was going to need bored out AT LEAST .060" over on the motor to make it useable and even then we were all skeptical. They both can't believe it and I am honestly shocked it is okay and ready for reassembly. It is a ACT OF MY ALMIGHTY God IN HEAVEN that I have been saved by him in life but in this whole engine disaster, minus you would be FLOORED IF YOU WERE HERE AND SAW THE DAMAGE AND THEN GET THE NEWS THAT I RECEIVED. Anywho , side note, my dad's friend I have not spoke to yet, you don't understand this man he is all about himself, and he said I didn't have a forged crank but I have forged rods and pistons,,,, well the truth be told correctly I have a forged crankshaft and forged 25 year old pistons but not forged rods like I was told. Another side note,,, possible ... May trade entire roller cam setup for a bit of a more aggressive cam. ,,,,,,, I will post specs on cam I would LOVE getting some input from anyone. I believe it's  .510 duration .527 lift ? Could be wrong on that.... I think that it's very possible that this is correct......

[FearNoMan78k10]

Okay so we are align honing, boring , balancing the rotating assembly, arp studding every nut and bolt that matters, connecting rods, mains, the heads, etc to hold everything together,,, we are looking into forged rods if match the rest of the forged bottom end, heads will be swapped for rectangle aluminum heads and getting rid of these..... We are building this engine to produce 750rwhp and and gobs of torque. So everything must be gone through right. What started as a engine swap turned into needing this and that so just going to build it bumper to bumper,,,,, also even though I worked so hard on my frame I've decided to sand blast it and the axles and paint it all over again.  Deciding wether to keep or sell the 33's for 35's ,,,, brand new tires with rims.... But I'm thinking bigger heavier tire. I don't want to be buying tire sets a couple times a year, so deciding on that

[Engineer]

If you are using factory Chevrolet connecting rods they are most certainly forged.

In my '77 K30 I have a 454 from a '73 C20. My 454 has the factory pressed pin 3/8" bolt connecting rods.

What are you expecting from your engine? I put ARP studs in my factory Chevrolet rods and have been running them for close to 20 years. My engine was originally built for sled pulling. It makes appoximately 500 hp, and I have no reserve about spinning it 7,000rpm.........on stock rods.

Reality: you only have two factory options on a big block Chevy rod. Either the 3/8, or the 7/16 bolt. The 7/16 only came in L88 427s, and LS6 454s. Some 7/16 rods had floating wrist pins, but all 3/8s were pressed pin. Other than the couple of examples above, every big block Chevy had 3/8 bolt connecting rods just like mine. To put it in other words, there are no bad big block Chevy rods. Only better, and best.

I would bet money I don't have that your rods are FORGED 4140 steel.

[FearNoMan78k10]

I believe they are stock rods from what them guys are telling me , I didn't know the stock ones are forged.,,, that would be absolutely great if they were.. But they were saying these rods aren't forged, how much hp and tq can the stock rods handle ? We are seriously looking to hit 700 at the wheels

[FearNoMan78k10]

These are the tires on there as of right now . Hancook Dynapro mud terrains 33x12.50R16. They are new. Thinking of 3 inch lift with 33's or 4 to 4.5" with 35x13.50r16

[FearNoMan78k10]

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[FearNoMan78k10]

Engineer,,, the stock rods can only handle 500 to 550hp right ?


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[Engineer]

I would say, based on personal experience stock rods will easily handle 550hp as long as you aren't pushing your engine into detonation.

700hp at the wheels is about 900hp at the crank. That is a lot of radical power for a sub 600ci build.

[FearNoMan78k10]

Yeah I know I'm asking for alot here.... 700 ponies is not a easy feat.... We will see engineer... I may be in the 600 bracket... I used to drive a 500hp diesel everyday to college , I want something that is very reliable and won't get 3 mpg but will get 8 to 10mpg making 600 on fuel alone. 750 is our ultimate goal , BUT we will see where it all goes as I'm not going to be buying a bunch more parts to make it happen ... I still need some parts for my abused but made new 454. So when looking for parts I need I'm trying to keep cost most definitely in mind but performance as well , not for any other reason am I building it this way other than kinda having too. The damage made to the engine has caused me to sell a ton of things and have to buy parts . What started as an engine swap ready to go has turned into a nightmare... I'm thankful for two things . God first and foremost and family second. God and my family had helped keep me encouraged through this mess... it's been one thing after the other , if I had my own shop and a good physical body it wouldn't be such a huge deal to work on it and get things done but finances are stopping me alltogether right now. We will see what happens. I'm not even going to try to reason with the lier who sold me this engine... What a loser... When funds become available the project will resume... The good old guys that are good honest guys from what I have gathered are trying to help me out with doing things while we wait. The axles are getting installed right now . Looking for some 8 lug American racing old school style rims like the ones I have on there now , I really like them. So looking for 8 lug rims ... I have two right now but they are just for the axle swap ... As far as the engine goes... I've heard of guys doing all sorts of things to get more power, besides the obvious ... Ie. bigger carb, cam, intake, bored out , etc, lets say I don't have the ability to get rid of the old heads I have . What can I do other than port matching and polishing to get the most out of them while maintaining a good balance of reliability ?  They will restrict the delivery on fuel and air and I just don't think the stock heads will support a true 700 hp... That's a fairy tale dream , 550 max is more realistic anything after that is like operating a turbo past it's effiency range ... It will just blow hot air...  So what do YOU recommend ... I'd like some rectangle heads .... Correct me if I'm wrong here but aluminum rectangle port heads are the way to go....??  These guys doing this already know what they are doing but maybe I can tell them a few tips and tricks while they're at it?!  I'm in a hole right now with this motor big time but we are trying to take one step at a time and fix the damage one day at time and while we are doing that we are keeping HP and performance in mind . Since I needed a clutch we went with the heavy heavy duty clutch as opposed to the stock one which is still none the less strong ,,, for a stock engine ,.. Things like that , headers we went with hooker headers  1 7/8" I believe , carb is from one of the mechanics , it's a holley 830 DP that he used on his drag/ street / strip car that has been fully built,..  Stage 3 intake manifold , 1500 to 6500 rating, forged crank, forged pistons, need forged rods, solid roller cam, .527 lift ... May trade cam setup to engine shop for wilder cam, we will see ,  bored .030" among some other things so we are hoping well I'm hoping that we will reach our goal ... And if we come just a little short that's okay , but we aren't building a normal 454 here since I've had to give up my left arm and both legs to fix the engine right. I'm having to go through alot of trouble to fix my truck so we agreed that we would build with the intent of maximum horsepower for the budget and keep reliability in mind as well , now is this going to be a 200k engine ? Probably not unless God allows it to be. But it will see 100k hopefully. I want to ARP everything , having a hard time finding a full engine kit from ARP for my 454. By the way does anyone need a new 750cfm carb or 10 and a 12 bolt axle ? Just a thought , if you do let me know ill sign up for the classifieds section and post it up there ..  Any tips and advice along the way for this project from experienced guys would be much appreciated

[FearNoMan78k10]

Dana 60 king pin straight axle


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[FearNoMan78k10]

Dana 70 FF rear axle , was a dually rear end, both axles came out of an 80's model chevy truck, Dana 70 axle has the drum brakes guys



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[FearNoMan78k10]

So having to modify the rear axle just a bit to make it work but it's practically a dump truck rear end haha


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[FearNoMan78k10]

Dually rear end won't work without some fabrication and experience so thank The Lord we have some good guys who know how


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[FearNoMan78k10]

The old edelbrock intake ,,,,


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[FearNoMan78k10]

The old but new Carter Afb 750cfm carb , the intake manifold and carb are not being used as well as these other pic updates


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