engine diagram for 86 C10 350 4bbl

[mizozuman2]

Alright, so I'm prepping to take the head off of my '86 C10 with a 350 4bbl. I'm looking to keep it all original under the hood, so Smog stays.

Is there a easy to read diagram that helps with re-plumbing the engine?

Also, I'm going to take it Fel-Pro is the way to go for gaskets?

And what's a good, but cheap spring compressor tool. I'm having the heads machined, so I know for a fact they're true and flat.

(Anyone in the Wichita, KS vicinity know a good place to get the heads done at?)

[sbx22]

What I usually do when I take something apart that I'm not sure about is take a gazillion photos with my digital camera from different angles so I know where all the lines will go. I also label my lines too.

I've heard nothing but good things about Felpro, I'm using them myself.

[bd]

Your question about 'plumbing' is too general for a specific answer, so peruse the pertinent sections of the 1986 Service Manual.  Allow several minutes for the download, because of the large file size - then save it to your hard drive for quicker access in the future.  The use of a digital camera as suggested is also very workable.

Fel-Pro does make high quality gaskets.

This compact Summit Racing valve spring compressor will do the job effectively with heads on or off a small or big block GM and maybe one of the better choices for the money. 

A universal alternative for all motors is the C-clamp style compressor.  But, care must be exercised in selection since some C-clamp compressors work FAR better than others due to differences in frame and spring adapter strength and leverage provided by the lever mechanism.

[thefarmboy21]

1. Pictures of YOUR engine with you're own camera work are always best period.

2. Felpro 1003 head gaskets are all I'll recommend and if you're worried about a good seal coat them with copper coat in a spray can. I know a guy that re uses old ones and just sprays them with WD-40.....and these are 383, 406, 421 and 434 Chevys pushing around 14:1+ compression.

3. Easiest/quickest way to disassemble the valve springs is this: take a socket, hold over spring retainer, tap firmly/quickly with hammer of your choice....spring locks will usually let loose and pop out and bam pull spring off. If you don't feel comfortable with this shade tree mechanic method, do it easier and it helps loosen the crud from the valve locks and helps you with your compressor.
As for compressor itself, I like the stud mount kind. Either the nice ones or $20 ones.....just use a washer and a hardware store fine thread nut OR a spare....but I messed up a good nut in my learning days without the washer. I don't like the c-clamp style because the ONE I tried was awkward and flexed too much. The jaw, twist handle kind are just kinda sketchy....the claws pop off the spring and the handles break off the cheap ones.....you'll see. BUT most auto stores loan those and C-clamp style out.

[thefarmboy21]

* If you are going to buy one....that summit one is a great one for the money from what I can tell. If you do more than one set of heads ever, I'd spring for it....if not, I'd get a "loan-A-tool"