P30 Fuse Block

[75P30]

My '75 P30 has a pile of rust for a fuse block.  I have a few circuits bypassing it, with inline fuses.  I haven't been able to find a new one specific to the application. 
Anyone know if:
1) I'm missing a source for the original one?
2) What a good generic substitute would be?

[78BIG-TEN]

Never found a source for just the panel new.We had a lot of ford medium duties that did that,I would go to a salvage yard that stocked medium and hd trucks and cut out a good one,then splice it in.

[75P30]

Never found a source for just the panel new.We had a lot of ford medium duties that did that,I would go to a salvage yard that stocked medium and hd trucks and cut out a good one,then splice it in.

Thanks.  No yards like that near me.  I'm thinking of trying something from Painless Wiring. 

[VileZambonie]

You have a plethora of options. Now would be a good time to retrofit in a modern power distribution center under the hood and eliminate the factory fuse block altogether.

[75P30]

You have a plethora of options. Now would be a good time to retrofit in a modern power distribution center under the hood and eliminate the factory fuse block altogether.

I'm up for that.  What would a modern power center constitute? I would like to relocate it.  It's a pain to reach under the dash.  I may even put it on the dash somewhere.  I'm not worried about aesthetics, this vehicle needs function.

[roundhouse]

I just tossed two fuseblocks from a 95 Toyota 4 runner

Really any vehicle newer than say 1990 will have a nice fusebox with plenty of  relays fuses etc

[VileZambonie]

Look for an underhood power distribution center and just put it under the hood in a convenient place.

[75P30]

I finally got around to this.  I went with a Painless Wiring 11 circuit generic box.  I have everything working except the backup lights.  (Well, the dome light too, but that's last, it was "rigged" previously.)
 
It's a Turbo 400.  As such, it has the backup light switch combined with the neutral safety switch.     

On the NSS, there are (2) 10 ga. wires that go (1) to the solenoid, and (2) to the junction block. These are the NSS side, and weren't touched.
There are also (2) 16 ga. green wires that I've have found (their other ends) at the firewall junction block.  Tracing them, they are the BU light wires. 
I can get the lights to work without going through the switch (jumped), but not when hooked up through the switch.  They worked when I started this.  What am I missing?  Key on, shifter in reverse.   
       

[75P30]

I found it.
In the harness that goes from the trans to the junction block, there is a 3rd green wire that goes to the water temp sender. 
I thought for sure I had separated this one.  WRONG.  I was putting power to it instead of the wire that goes to the B/U switch!
I put power to the wire that I had id'ed as "water temp", and, presto, backup lights!