73 C20 Performance Engine Build

[enaberif]

Make sure the bolts especially the middle ones don't jam against the push rods.

[LTZ C20]

I don't think that will be an issue.

Should copper spray gasket be used anywhere? I've heard mixed reviews about its use also.

[bd]

Install FelPro head gaskets dry.  Use Ultra Copper or Ultra Grey around intake coolant passages and along China walls and in the corners.  You can also apply a sparing smear around intake ports, especially along the valley margins, but don't go crazy.  I don't recommend Coppercoat on anything but steel shim gaskets (just personal preference).

[enaberif]

I don't think that will be an issue.

Should copper spray gasket be used anywhere? I've heard mixed reviews about its use also.

I didn't use any. Just put a light coating around the water jackets on the head side which will act as a way to hold the gasket then just install manifold as per normal.

[LTZ C20]

Ok cool. Now what's a valley margin and a China wall?

[LTZ C20]

Got the timing gear loose from the crank. If I line up the outer 0 marker of the crank sprocket with the dot on the cam sprocket, it makes the key way in the crankshaft not be straight up and down. Is this ok?



See the 2 marks are aligned now the way BD said to do it but notice the crank keyway is now almost in the 1 o'clock position.

[bd]

Ok cool. Now what's a valley margin and a China wall?

The valley is the enclosed area of the block located directly below the intake manifold.  It houses the lifters, spider, pushrods, etc.  The China Walls are the ~3/8" wide fore and aft ends of the valley that meander between the two cylinder heads.  They are nicknamed China Walls, because they are narrow and meander like... (you guessed it) the Great China Wall.  What I referred to as 'the valley margins' (not technical terminology by any means and for lack of a better description at the time) are the lower edges of the intake manifold flange that form the narrow sealing surfaces along the bottom of the intake ports.  The idea is to help ensure that no oil is drawn past the gasket from the valley into the intake ports.  Sealant sparingly smeared around the intake ports is not really necessary with composite gaskets, but hedges your bet (at least, in my 'umble estimation) that the gaskets will seal against vacuum leaks.

However, as previously posted, silicone sealant is highly recommended around the coolant crossover ports at the four corners of the intake manifold, because these are common locations of gasket deterioration and subsequent coolant leaks.  I recommend Ultra-Copper and Ultra-Grey, since I found both to provide good adherence and decent service life as well as easy removal and cleanup when the time comes.

[bd]

Got the timing gear loose from the crank. If I line up the outer 0 marker of the crank sprocket with the dot on the cam sprocket, it makes the key way in the crankshaft not be straight up and down. Is this ok?



See the 2 marks are aligned now the way BD said to do it but notice the crank keyway is now almost in the 1 o'clock position.

Look at the crank gear.  There are two "0" marks - inner and outer.  The crank keyway should align with the inner "0" mark AND the cam gear should align with the outer "0" mark.

[bd]

When the crank gear is properly installed and the cam/crank timing marks are aligned, the crank keyway will point to about 1:30.

[enaberif]

I use Permatex Ultra Black for my goo and no leak issues and I was putting my truck together when it was -3* Celsius outside lol.

Here is a good shot of what it should like and before you do this.. get some acetone and clean ALL the surfaces extremely well as this will help bond the rtv as well. Do this with your cylinder heads and intake manifold as well.

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/gtamatt/media/IMAG0909_zps91748115.jpg.html

And yes when the crank gear is set properly the key should roughly be pointing in the #1 cylinder direction.

[bd]

... I was putting my truck together when it was -3* Celsius outside lol.

BBRrrrrrrrrrr!

[LTZ C20]

Ok I knew what the valley was and I was pretty sure what the "China wall" was, just never heard it called that so wanted to be sure before I made a mistake. What got me was the valley margin. But I see what area you mean now by valley margin, so got that too.

I'll use it her the copper spray gasket or the permatex ultra black, most likely the ultra black.

[LTZ C20]

When the crank gear is properly installed and the cam/crank timing marks are aligned, the crank keyway will point to about 1:30.

BINGO!!!! Got it fella's. I'm pretty familiar with assembly but all this little stuff and the confusion with the timing set had me all messed up. But now I got it and I fixed the timing cover problem so that will be better too. Assembly time! Thanks guys, your awesome.

[LTZ C20]

Thanks to BD and Enaberif, tonight saw the accomplishment of heads torqued, timing set installed & clocked properly, timing cover mounting flange straighten & cover installed.

I used a tack coat of copper spray on the timing cover gasket so that I could hold it to the block and position it equally and squarely over all the bolt holes, this also let me put the cover on and get all the bolts started without the gasket slipping n sliding all over the place like a wet noodle. The cover looks properly sealed now.

Timing set installed:



Cover mounting flanges after straightening, also they came out a little nicer than the pics because I did some gentle beating on the cover with it pressed against the block so I got each area flush as I could against its coresponding block flange areas. (If any of that even made sense??) Note: the gasket wasn't installed in the pic but was on final assembly.





This pic only represents the order in which the cover bolts were tightened down. I'm not sure if it's the correct sequence but based off the reason behind the "outerward spiral" method with the heads and intake, I found it to be an affective method here too.

[enaberif]

Looking good and that cover looks way better