bad vibration

[SomeTexan]

It's essentially a stock configuration 350 so you don't need to be overly concerned.

I was dissagreeing with this. To me, a stock flat tappet 350 would cause more concern during break in than a race engine that gets pulled apart every other weekend or more often. That stock engine will probably be in a daily driver that is supposed to last.

And this is called taking something out of context. I clearly stated

"Any oil formulated with higher levels of ZDDP is fine for your application. It's essentially a stock configuration 350 so you don't need to be overly concerned. Generally the engine rebuilder will supply literature detailing how the cam is broken in or if it even was already. Summit couldn't give you that data?"

And that is where I start to get confused. The guy taking your advice went with the additive rather than the oil, and was only going to get half of as much break in oil as he needed. To me that looks as if he, by your recommendation, isn't going to do the whole break in. Either way, to me break in is more important on a stock engine than an all out performance engine. The stock engine is supposed to go a couple hundred thousand miles with minimal maintenance where the performance engine will get freshened up fairly often.

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, i'll mix two bottles of additive.

[Greybeard]

Well, there is a third camp on all of this, the drive it like you'll drive it camp. That is the secondary break in after cam break in. This is the camp I lived with back in the day. After the shop floor cam break in just put good quality oil in it, drive it easy for a week or two then bash it the same as you are planning on driving it. It might not make a 200K miles or more engine but in reality back then (as today) how many people actually kept and drove a vehicle for a hundred thousand miles? I had my first truck for a lot of years but I never came close to 100K on the odometer or on the engine before I sold it. Back in the eighties, 100k miles was cause to consider a vehicle and engine mechanically worn out. 200K miles was an anomaly not the norm. Today that has changed, 200k miles is about an average lifespan with many going well over that. I drove a 97 Chevy 4x4 at work that ran fine with nearly 300K miles on it. Northland oil and Wix filters every 3K miles.

[blazer74]

Ok, i'll mix two bottles of additive.

2 much can be harmful also.

[SomeTexan]

Well, there is a third camp on all of this, the drive it like you'll drive it camp. That is the secondary break in after cam break in. This is the camp I lived with back in the day. After the shop floor cam break in just put good quality oil in it, drive it easy for a week or two then bash it the same as you are planning on driving it.

I am in that camp myself, I just consider a good break in oil to be vital. 20-30 min cam break in, change the oil and filter, but use break in oil again. Then you drive it like you are going to drive it for 2-500 miles. Then you change to a good regular oil. Even then, I would stick with a diesel oil for at least a couple oil changes. The diesel oils haven't been stripped of all their good stuff like the car oils. I'm just a stickler for running break in oil at least that far. Personally if I built another flat tappet engine, I would probably run break in oil for another 1000 miles after the initial 500. Just to make sure it had good oil in it while parts are still breaking in. It might be overkill, but when I build something to last, I take all the steps I can to help it. Now, after about 50 miles, I do beat the snot out of an engine. Break in doesn't mean to baby it.

[philo_beddoe]

Ok, i'll mix two bottles of additive.

2 much can be harmful also.

Ok, 1.5 should do it.

[philo_beddoe]

[Greybeard]

OK.....

[philo_beddoe]

Oh yeah, thats the last part needed on my engine swap project, Vile had to tell me, i wouldnt have known.

[philo_beddoe]

Is the color avatar better than the b/w?

[AZ87V10]

Is the color avatar better than the b/w?

Yes. Much nicer and more modern looking. It fits the truck better.

[philo_beddoe]

Thanks, thats the pic that possibly made the poster. I need to order, already missed 2 months!!

[Captain Swampy]

 Most oils are good these days. The additive packages have come a long way. They took the zinc out of oil because it clogged catalytic converters and isn't needed on new engines because they have roller lifters. I personally use Amsoil 5W40 diesel oil. It is S rated for gas engines. I use it because I feel Amsoil makes some of the best synthetic oil and it allows me to use one oil in everything. It goes in a KW with a CAT C-15, 2000 Excursion 6.8L V10, 2005 Impala 3.4L V6, Brooke's 350, and a John Deere mower. We run 7000 mile oil changes on the gas engines.

Take a look at Amsoil's website. Even if you don't want to use it, they have some really good articles to help you understand oil better. Then you can pick a different brand if you want. After break-in stay away from additives. Pick a good oil and leave it alone. The manufacturers work very hard on the additive packages. If there was a magic additive, they would include it in their blend. Off the shelf additives can react poorly with an oils additive package and actually decrease it's quality.

A little research from good sources goes a long way in avoiding wives tales and hear say.

[philo_beddoe]

Thanks capt. for the advice. I'll research some good oil and check amsoil's website. I'm sure Vile will give me some good instructions on care and maintenance on that new motor as well.

[philo_beddoe]

Found some good oil.