Brake Gremlin

[TheWaterboy]

Hey Everybody,
 I am new here, and i have a brake issue that I can just not figure out. I am restoring a 1986 c10, My problem is with the rear brakes.

What it is doing- acts like the driver side wants to drag/get hot/ lock up when I get on the brakes even a little hard when its dry out and almost instantly when its wet out. Also the brake pedal seems to be inconsistent sometimes it is high and sometimes it is low.

What I have Done- NEW ( wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, hardware,E-Brake cable/**all three, Brake hoses** all three, star adjusters on both sides, cleaned and lubed backing plates,  new calipers, pads, rotors, all quality  AC Delco parts. I have adjusted them and had them adjusted. Also bled the entire system and filled with new fluid.

Still no fix, I am at a loss.....Please any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[Captain Swampy]

It looks like you are doing a high quality repair, replacing everything. Good for you. Hopefully we can get it straightened out. There are some really sharp guys on here, until then maybe I can get you heading the right direction.

The first thing that concerns me is "cleaned and lubed the backing plate". With what? No grease or oil should in there, except antiseize on the adjusters. I guess a dry graphite spray would be OK, but I've never lubed the backing plate. Grease or oil on the shoes could cause what you're describing. Throw the shoes away and get new ones if the linings are contaminated. Clean the drums and backing plates with brake cleaner.

Next the adjusters are different on each side. One side has left handed threads. Some pictures of how everything is assembled would be helpful.

You may still have air in the lines. With all 4 corners new and the rear brakes adjusted, you should have a firm pedal. How are you bleeding the brakes? I don't want to insult you, but are the bleeder screws on top? I've seen calipers installed upside down on the wrong sides. Just trying to eliminate problems.

If everything else is good, the master cylinder could be bad. Were the brakes working good before? Or is this a truck that's been sitting a long time?

[Irish_Alley]

are you sure its the rear brakes and not the front?

[Captain Swampy]

A couple pictures of our rear brakes in Members rides. Find "Brooke's 87 V10"  look for reply #48 on page 4. Sorry don't have the pics on my new laptop yet, so I couldn't just post the pictures.

[TheWaterboy]

Hey Captain,

With the backing plates I just cleaned with brake cleaner and a wire brush then put  a small amount of Anti seize on the ware locations(I could not attach the photo I have but there are 6 oval nubs the metal part of the shoe rubs against) All the bleeders are on the top, I am bleeding them the old fashion way with a friend in the truck, pump it up 6-8 times and crack open the bleeder with a clear tube attached leading to a catch canister. Keeping the pedal depressed until the bleeder is tightened. Then repeat.
 
The ruck was siting a bit a little back story this was my first car, I sold it in 2010 to help my
Mother pay for hospital bills acquired do to a cancer battle that my Dad was fighting. Unfortunately a year latter he lost that fight. I never thought i would see this truck again, it was purchased by my grandfather in 87. My Dad taught me how to work on cars through this truck, we did a little of everything. This truck was a Texas truck with 60xxx miles on it when I got it...beautiful, like new. Around June of 15' I decided I wanted another square body, the search began..... Three months later not only did I find a square body, I found my truck in Indiana. When I found it it had 91xxx miles and the power train including rear gear had been swapped, all the trim removed , and some small damage on the bed sides . I was able to buy it back and that is where the restoration began, Now I have the power train lined out with a new GM Long Block and rebuilt TH350.  I am not sure how much it sat while out of my possession the mileage would indicate that i could have sat a while. When I sold it had around 78xxx so 13 thousand miles in 5 years is not much but i only put 18 thousand on it when i had it

Irish Alley,

I am sure it is the back I have done a few things to check this. First had a friend watch as I hit the brakes and confirmed only the rear Driver side was locking up. then had them drive around in a parking lot and i watched and listened for the squeal( they can be very deceptive) but i also took a ride in the bed to try to double check. All signs point to the driver rear, including the excessive dust that accumulates in between tear downs. Oh and that wheel is getting hot after any real length of driving.


P.S.
Sorry for the long reply

[TheWaterboy]

Hey Captain,

I am not to great at navigating this forum yet, how would i go about finding that?
thank you

[amplifiedsilence]

Here is the thread:

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=32209.45

[TheWaterboy]

thank you amplifiedsilence, mine is a little different it is 5 lug but otherwise looks the same,I still can't upload pictures or i would  put one of mine up

[Captain Swampy]

I was worried grease was dripping into the drum. The anti seize should be OK. Sounds like it is adjusting to tight. Try removing the self adjuster arm. Then test drive.

[TheWaterboy]

Okay I will try that, I picked up a new Ac Delco MC too. I am going to change that out and see where it gets me. I was looking at them last night and one thing i did notice that seemed odd was that the adjuster arm did not "ratchet" "Click" when turning the star wheel. I am not sure if it is supposed to or not. It was not making very firm contact, I have an old haynes manual and it said I should have to lift the arm to adjust and i do not at all.

I would think that would cause it to not adjust, as apposed to adjust to tight?? AHHHH who would think the Motor swap would take less time and cause less headache LOL

[TheWaterboy]

Okay so an update on this headache, I set the initial brake adjustment way out and took it for a drive about 2 miles in and the Driver rear started to drag. I made sure that i never went in reverse ...I thought they only adjusted when braking in reverse??? I am so frustrated at this point I and tired of throwing money at it. Again once it starts to squeal, the driver side starts to lock up very easily even on hot dry pavement and when that starts you can walk next to the wheel and feel/smell the heat and the center cap/ rim is hot to the touch.

HELP!!!

[VileZambonie]

#1 post pics of both sides with the drum off. Indicate in your pics L and R and a pic of the inside of each drum. (have you swapped the drum left to right to see if the noise problem goes to the other side?

#2 make sure the parking brake cables are loose and not pulling the shoes away from the anchor pin.

#3 double check all of your hardware is on correctly and the that the primary and secondary shoe are in their respective locations

#4 inspect the drums for improper machining and wear.

The shoes should be fully seated on the anchor pin and must be adjusted to minimal contact with the drum. Once you have them properly adjusted and working correctly, then you can adjust your parking brake cable slack. Do not over adjust it

[TheWaterboy]

This is the Driver side the one locking up and getting hot, I think the squeal is a result of that. I had just removed the one return spring but this is what everything else looks like. As far as the E-Brake I have it adjusted very loose, I ill get about 2-3 good stops between the rear being out of adjustment and me having long pedal travel to over tight on the drivers side.

[zieg85]

Looking at the picture, the primary shoe (shortest, closest to front) looks too long to me.

[zieg85]

The brake material stops about at the arrow if my memory serves me