Author Topic: SOLVED: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem  (Read 697 times)

Offline Michael

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SOLVED: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« on: September 09, 2018, 11:27:47 AM »
Hey guys, I am in need of some advice/help from you gurus.  I am trying to pull my transmission back so I can access the bellhousing and replace a cracked clutch-fork.  I have never fooled with transmissions, so forgive please my ignorance.

First dumb question - do I need to pull the bellhousing off with the transmission or can I leave it connected to the engine and just pull the trans back?  (Based on stuff I saw on the web, I started pulling just the trans but am thinking that is going to mess things up.)

Second dumb question - do I need to cut the floorboard behind where the shiftier comes up in the floor?  I can't get the trans back far enough before the top hits the floorboard (see pic), even after dropping the trans a little by lowering the cross-bar-support (see pic).  I am afraid to drop the trans down any more for fear of bending the shaft in the bellhousing.

Any help, advise, or useful criticism, would be greatly appreciated!

-Michael

1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual
« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 08:59:03 PM by Michael »
1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2018, 07:01:26 PM »
Why are you afraid to remove the transmission altogether? If your clutch fork is cracked, it's most likely time to replace the clutch, resurface the flywheel etc. Take it down, get it out of your way.
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Offline Michael

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2018, 07:20:29 PM »
It's not that I am afraid to get it out, it is that I can't get it out due to the top of the trans (shiftier nub) hitting the back of the hole in the floorboard.  I can't figure out how to drop the trans low enough to clear the hole.  The best I can figure is that people are lifting the front of the engine to pivot the back down some.

As for the rest, that is good advice.  Unfortunately, I just don't have the time or money right now or I would definitely do as you suggested.  I just changed jobs and am trying to play catch-up on finances so looking for a quick fix on this round and will do all the good preventative stuff next time.
1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual

Offline Peter S

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2018, 06:54:55 AM »
Underneath your floor covering/mat there is a removable cover which will give you amble clearance to slide the tranny back. To replace the clutch fork, you will need to remove the bell housing.

The cover looks similar to the one shown
« Last Edit: September 10, 2018, 07:01:02 AM by Peter S »
-Peter

1978 K10 stepside

Offline zieg85

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2018, 07:49:51 AM »
Underneath your floor covering/mat there is a removable cover which will give you amble clearance to slide the tranny back. To replace the clutch fork, you will need to remove the bell housing.

The cover looks similar to the one shown

86 the floor hump was not removable
1985 C30 Custom Deluxe Ext. cab 5.7L TH400 4.56 
1985 C20 Scottsdale 7.4L 4 speed 3.21
1986 C10 under construction
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Offline Peter S

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2018, 08:08:37 AM »
Sorry, did not know that.
-Peter

1978 K10 stepside

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2018, 09:13:39 AM »
Proper thing to do is remove the driveshafts, support the trans and transfer case securely on a jack and lower it down. If you are only replacing the fork, you still need to inspect the release bearing, clean and grease the collar, pack the reservoir, lube the pivot etc.

By afraid, I didn't mean that you were scared, just a figure of speech. It's only a few extra steps and you can be sure the job is done right.
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Offline claude

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2018, 12:01:25 PM »
Follow the advice of VileZambonie. Beg, borrow, or rent a transmission floor jack as the transmission/transfer case is dang heavy.
1985 K20, manual T, 373 gears, 208 transfer case
Rebuilt roller 355 engine, Comp XE264XR cam 212/218 @ .050, .487/.495 lift w/1.5 RR, LSA 110, Dart Iron Eagle Heads with 202/1.6 SS valves. 325 HP at 4000 RPM. 335 HP @ 4900.
421 ft*lbs torque at 4000RPM

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2018, 01:43:07 PM »
Underneath your floor covering/mat there is a removable cover which will give you amble clearance to slide the tranny back. To replace the clutch fork, you will need to remove the bell housing.

The cover looks similar to the one shown

86 the floor hump was not removable

For the years with a removable cover, was it all manual trans?    Or all with manual trans AND 4X4?
Which years had the removable cover?

Offline roundhouse

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Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2018, 05:00:09 AM »
Find a transmission jack and scrape up the money to replace the clutch and throw out bearing and surface the flywheel while you have it apart

Best way is as mentioned
Remove the driveshaft and watch the wiring and stuff and lower the trans down
If it won’t drop enough
Jack up the front of the engine
But don’t jack it on the crankshaft pully and don’t poke a hole in the oil pan with the jack
Use a block of wood between the jack and pan


Also take out one of the bolts holding the trans to the bell and one bolt that holds the bell to the engine

Go to a hardware store and get four  replacement bolts for each kind
That are about six inches long

Cut the heads off and use a grinder or a saw and cut a screwdriver slot where you just cut off the head

Remove the factory bolts one at a time and replace them with your new long headless bolts

This will keep the trans straight on the bell while you slide it off and back on

Do the same with the engine to bell bolts

Makes it a lot easier
« Last Edit: September 18, 2018, 05:04:05 AM by roundhouse »

Offline Michael

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #10 on: September 21, 2018, 08:58:13 PM »
Thank you to all who offered me help.  I finally finished getting most of it back together, at least enough to drive.  I ended up having to use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut a slot in the floorboard so I could slide the trans back far enough to get the fork swapped. I was able to fish the old one out and the new one in once the shaft from the trans cleared the bell housing.

For anyone who reads this in the future, here is what I did. 

  • Disconnected the front drive shaft at the front u-joint
  • Disconnected the back drive shaft at the back u-joint
  • Disconnected the spedo cable, 4WD switch cable, and reverse switch cable
  • Removed the shifter and 4WD shifter assembly
  • Supported the front of the trans and the back of the transfer case with two jacks and 2x4s (I don't have a transmission jack)
  • Replaced the transmission support bar bolts one at a time with long bolts that allowed me to raise/lower the bar
  • Cut a slot in the floorboard to slide the transmission back (my truck didn't have a removable cover like some models)
  • Removed the 4-bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing and slid the trans back about 6-8 inches (carefully maneuvering the jacks as I went)
  • Remove the clutch pivot ball
  • At that point I could fish the fork and throw-out bearing out and put a new one in
  • Then put it all back together in reverse order, being careful to align the shaft and throw-out bearing as I went.

All in all it took me waaayy to long to do because I never did it before, was parked on railroad ties (gave me an 8" lift) and using jacks, and was doing it by myself.  I would stress that at no time was the transmission support bar removed.  It was simply lowered and raised using the long bolts, thus giving me a safe and firm place for the trans to rest while I was under it.  This was a dog of a job without a lift and proper trans jack but it can be done.

Hopefully this helps someone in the future who has the same problem getting a manual trans out and/or replacing a fork or throw-out bearing.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 09:06:08 PM by Michael »
1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual

Offline Michael

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Re: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #11 on: September 21, 2018, 09:04:58 PM »
.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 09:07:37 PM by Michael »
1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: SOLVED: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2018, 06:09:55 PM »
Sometimes you need to do what you need to do to get a job done however, cutting your floor was completely unnecessary and I still don't understand your logic in not simply lowering the unit to do the work needed.

Quote
I would stress that at no time was the transmission support bar removed.

Herein lies the problem and why you had to cut up your floor.
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Offline Michael

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Re: SOLVED: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2018, 08:02:39 PM »


I still don't understand your logic in not simply lowering the unit to do the work needed.



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1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual

Offline Michael

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  • 86 K10 4X4
Re: SOLVED: Need HELP with 4-speed transmission removal problem
« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2018, 08:14:23 PM »


I still don't understand your logic in not simply lowering the unit to do the work needed.

The shaft goes into the bell housing about 6" or so making it impossible to lower it without first moving it back enough to clear the bell housing.  I could not move it back because the shifter nub stuck too far up.  So you can't go back or down more than about an inch.   I thought I could let the back of the transfer case enough to remove it at an angle but I could not get it low enough for the shifter nub to clear the Floorboard without the shaft starting to bend in the bell housing.  So I had to cut the slot so the trans would go straight back without bending the shaft while still in the bell housing.

As for the Cross member, that is why I used 6" bolts, so I could lower the trans (along with using the Jack's), but again it could not go down without bending the shaft in the bell housing.  It had to come back at least 5-6" to keep from bending it while being lowered.


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1986 K10 4x4
5.0L
SM465 4-speed manual