Author Topic: Small questions  (Read 605 times)

Offline LongBox85

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Small questions
« on: October 02, 2019, 04:20:39 PM »
Been working on the K20 and have some questions. If I have a 100 percent rust free body, would it hurt the resale to POR-15 the underside of it if there is a possibility of parting it out in the future? In other words, Would POR-15 harm resale of body parts (Cab and Box)? Another question. Is it worth the twin tanks for a high school vehicle? Not driving too far. I have twin 20s but need 4 brackets 4 straps and 2 sending units >:( Those parts are outrageously priced. To save the 200+ dollars is it worth it to sacrifice a tank so I can drive it around a bit on a budget? Thanks! (FYI The truck is torn apart right now so any other re-assembly tips would be GREATLY appreciated!!)
Radio? Who needs a Radio? -- Lloyd Christmas.

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: Small questions
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2019, 05:41:48 PM »
I don't think POR-15 would harm the value of your truck unless it was obviously used to conceal something. If you can only afford one tank at the moment, replace one tank and do the other when you have the money.
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Offline fitz

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Re: Small questions
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2019, 05:53:24 PM »
You could always take pictures of the cab / box before you paint them with POR 15.

Offline LongBox85

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Re: Small questions
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2019, 07:02:11 PM »
Thanks. I had kind of figured that it wouldn't harm the resale but just checking to see its preferred to not have it on perfect squarebody skin. That's a pretty hard to come by thing on a 35 year old truck up here in the salt.
Radio? Who needs a Radio? -- Lloyd Christmas.

Offline 75gmck25

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Re: Small questions
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2019, 04:16:46 AM »
It sounds like you already disassembled the tanks from the brackets.  If you have not taken them apart, just paint it with them assembled.  Then buy one new sending unit and install it in the primary tank to get running.  If your budget allows you can buy one for the 2nd tank and get it working.  Depending on the year of your truck, the primary/single tank may be passenger side (early trucks) or driver side (later trucks). 

I've also been able to buy replacement tanks at the junkyard for about $25, and they will have all the straps and mounts installed.  The sending units are still usually flaky, but at least you don't need any other parts.

Some other tips:
- If you have a three port fuel pump with a return, keep it and plumb the system properly.  It usually helps a lot to prevent vapor lock if you have a return line to keep fuel flowing (and cooling) when the fuel dead-heads at the carburetor. 
- Also keep the vapor canister installed if you have one, and use unvented gas caps.  It is an emissions device, but not a bad one that screws up driveability or gas mileage.
- Budget for new/better fuel-injection quality hose that meets the SAE J30R7 (low pressure) or SAE J30R9 (high pressure) specs.  It will hold up much better to the new fuel with ethanol.  You have a lot of short rubber hoses connecting everything and you want to prevent future leaks.
- Different trucks have different dual tank solenoids, and some are hard to find.  For example, I have never found a new six port Pollack valve with a single 12 volt terminal.  Three port Pollack valves are very common, and the newer six port with multiple terminals (four?) is usually not hard to find.
- You could also consider switching to a single 40 gallon rear mounted tank, although you will lose your spare tire carrier.  These tanks were used on Suburbans with a side filler, so you usually have to run the filler up into the corner of your bed area.
- Many folks seem to pick fights with the switch and solenoid wiring for dual tanks, but its really not that complicated.   YMMV.

Bruce