Author Topic: 81 K10 Build  (Read 6586 times)

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #60 on: April 29, 2020, 04:54:28 PM »
I have a slider and I could be wronge but I think the rubber is the same for the window or the slider. I might look into a rear window instead of the slider. Never really use the slider and you have to deal with the maintenance of it.
« Last Edit: April 29, 2020, 04:56:54 PM by Mike81K10 »

Offline Shifty

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #61 on: April 30, 2020, 09:59:41 AM »
I never use mine, except to clean it where it leaks inside.... :o
87 V20 Standard Cab Longbed (current)

87 R30 3+3 Longbed (days of yore)

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #62 on: May 02, 2020, 03:45:53 PM »
Working on my doors and stripped the Drivers door down. I gutted out most of the door and will be installing new regulators in both doors (had already bought them and found the regulators in my doors are not in bad shape). Do need to get the rollers/channels greased up prior to installing the new regulators. They are not that hard to take out once you learn how and takes 5 to 7 minutes.

1) With the window rolled all the way up - Remove the four regulator screws
2) Making sure the window does not move - roll it down to get the rollers moving until the wheel in the botton (lower) channel clears
3) Push the handle  crank post (regulator) into the door
4) Move the regulator forward to clear the front roller in the window channel
5) Mover the regulator back a little to clear and remove the last roller from the slot in the window channel.

Have some rust along the bottom of the doors and the inside lower section of the door had some surface rust. I Cleaned it, used the metal prep, and applied KBS Rust Seal (similiar to POR 15 - Just like it better) to the inside lower section of the door. I made an extension for my paint brush to reach the bottom inside of the door and it worked very well. Will do the same on the lower outside bottom.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2020, 04:49:04 PM by Mike81K10 »

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #63 on: May 03, 2020, 05:12:40 PM »
Don't forget to clear or re-drill the drain holes- learned the hard way when I had a guy repaint a Porsche 356. Within a year, rust... :o
1957 Apache 3100 235 Inline 6, 3 on the tree
1973 C-20, 3+3 454 4BBL TH400  Water Injection
1978 K-10, 350 4BBL TH350 NP203 M.M. Part time Kit/Hubs
1980 C-10 under construction

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2020, 01:16:45 PM »
Good advice JP! I will make sure the drain holes are clear.

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #65 on: May 15, 2020, 07:20:43 PM »
Made some progress. After gutting my DS door of all parts, I refinished the inside of the door and left the outside of the door 2K epoxy primed for now. The door latch assembly came very clean with KBS Klean (like the POR Cleaner). I then painted it with black ceramic brake caliber paint. Refinished the door Hinges as well. Will try to get the door put back together tomorrow and start on the PS.

I also stripped the parts off the back of my truck bed, tailgate bumpers and tailgate trunnion/hinges. I stripped and refinished the back of the bed and got new bumpers. Had to cover my LINEX bed to prevent over spray.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2020, 07:44:54 PM by Mike81K10 »

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #66 on: May 16, 2020, 05:19:58 PM »
Doing Prep work on parts to put my door back together. The sash on my window is rusted and I thought about buying a new one. After seeing they are $50 or more each I decided to clean what I have and they seem to have turned out OK. I will put a rust seal on the sash after the metal prep dries, then grease the inside channel.

I am the second owner of my truck (was OEM), have had my 81 K10 since 1986 and have discovered correct parts I look up for my truck are sometimes listed for earlier model years, 78 to 80 models. I have attached a picture of the door glass sash as an example. Sometimes it causes difficulty when looking up parts. If I do not find them for an 81 I have to look at earlier models and was wondering if it is an error by parts stores or some older model parts were used in the building of my truck by the manufacturer.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2020, 10:26:49 AM by Mike81K10 »

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #67 on: May 18, 2020, 06:32:14 PM »
Just in case some of your don't see the post I made in shows and swaps. There is a C-10 Truck Show in Ft. Worth, TX on 13 Aug 2020 to 15 Aug 2020. Don't know yet if I will make it.

The event was going to happen on 29 May 2020 and I checked into it for the new information. New flyer is attached!
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 07:09:13 PM by Mike81K10 »

Offline JohnnyPopper

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #68 on: May 18, 2020, 08:13:48 PM »
Would love to go, ain't wearing a no mask... ;D
1957 Apache 3100 235 Inline 6, 3 on the tree
1973 C-20, 3+3 454 4BBL TH400  Water Injection
1978 K-10, 350 4BBL TH350 NP203 M.M. Part time Kit/Hubs
1980 C-10 under construction

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #69 on: May 24, 2020, 03:03:21 PM »
Buffed out the paint on part of my cab, hard work and wears me out. Could see my reflection. I also waxed the inside of the cab, been a 2 or 3 weeks since I painted it. Finally putting parts back on my truck instead of just stripping parts off. I painted the metal frame around my window with a black metalic GM paint. Installed my rear window and will work on getting my doors on next and so forth. Did not think it would be so rough putting the window in, The bottom metal corners where a pain to get in and I bent one of them a little bit.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2020, 03:26:54 PM by Mike81K10 »

Offline VileZambonie

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #70 on: May 25, 2020, 06:53:49 AM »
Looking good. The chrome strip window locks are a bit of a pain but they look nice.
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Offline Big Lemon

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #71 on: May 30, 2020, 03:25:20 AM »
looks good!

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #72 on: May 30, 2020, 11:29:57 PM »
Thanks for the comments. Finally decided on the paint scheme for my paint. Decided to do a two tone, three if you count the pin stripes (most challenging part to paint). I completed my paint work on my DS door so I can install the window and vent window, as well as the rest of the parts without them getting in the way of the painting. I still need to buff the clear to get the mirror glaze.

I will complete the paint work on the other door PS next. Believe it might be best to do most of the paint work on the rest of the truck after I install the body parts, have not made up my mind on that yet.

PS: Just got my door buffed out and will start putting it back together. Satisfied with the results, yet have such a long way to go to finish. I at least know the direction I am going.
« Last Edit: May 31, 2020, 10:42:22 AM by Mike81K10 »

Offline Mike81K10

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Re: 81 K10 Build
« Reply #73 on: June 10, 2020, 11:15:12 PM »
I got my drivers side door put back together and gutted out my passenger door and started to strip it down. Have a little more rust on the bottom of my passenger door than I had with my drivers side. I will close up the holes where the carpet panel was located at the bottom and just redrill the holes if I elect to put it back on. Still have much stripping to do, just got started on the rust area first.

Don't know if any of you use the 3M Scotch-Brite Paint & Rust Stripper (like a poly Web Wheel for the Drill). I have used it quite abit on my truck and it has been a huge help, it does not damage the metal as the wire wheel can. However, in places I still use a wire wheel as well.

I had been waiting on some hardware to get it back together. Believe the doors are more of a challenge to strip due to having to gut and paint than the fenders and the bed will be.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2020, 10:27:40 PM by Mike81K10 »