Haynes/Chilton help? TORQUE SPECS 87 R10 SUSPENSION/BRAKES

[87ChevyR10]

As some of you may have seen on my other older thread about going and getting my baby.... well, its going down. Details coming together. It's a no tow ALL 700 MI all the way back ride.

So I'm gonna pull the front end in GA. I have multiple Haynes/Chiltons on our trucks, but they are IN GA.... IN THE TRUCK . So i can't refer to much and i didnt grab anything available on IA as those of you who know, they recently were pretty much stripped of everything not independent or already paid for.

I am replacing and need torque specs for things not listed in the .PDFs available here. I've had those for years and have pulled some of the stuff already. Even if i have some of the specs, i would rather someone who has the actual book who can say for sure

Doing
• Upper/Lower ball joints
• Inner/Outer tie rod ends
• Tie Rod Adjusting sleeves
• Idler arm
• Polyurethane control arm bushings
• Pitman arm
• Steering gear
• Front shocks

Also working on some of the brake system. Installing calipers and new brake hoses. If you happen to run across those, I'd appreciate it.

Y'all.... I'm excited. Scared. Trying not to catastrophize. Already learned a lot refreshing reading manuals for everything I've bought(It's all in GA w/my baby) like I have to drill a hole apparently in the frame with the rear sway bar. And I have to drill out with a 5/8" bit on the Belltech front sway bar to accomodate the links. So its been a long time accruing diagrams and videos. Been watching old Brothers episodes and taking me back. Watched the control arm bushing episode several times. DOES NOT LOOK FUN any way you cut it.

Thank you for any help you can give.
 

[87ChevyR10]

PS I did AI on Google and several of those I know aren't accurate, so I did look there also prior. It kept referring to 67-72 for alot of things

[bd]

Everything you are requesting should be in the 1987 GM Factory Service Manuals posted in the Tech Forum.  They are PDF scans of the GM paper manuals:

Service Manual

Unit Repair Manual

Wiring Manual

Emissions and Driveability Manual

[87ChevyR10]

BD I got the 1st 2. From here. Was in em last night. This is what I have compiled already and from Gemini.

Top is Gemini, bottom is what i've compiled. Different stuff.

Maybe what I'm asking is what I have so far, does anything look off?

gemini:
Upper Control Arm crossshaft Nuts 70 ft-lbsMay be higher for custom/aftermarket parts.
Lower Control Arm Pivot Bolts/Nuts90 - 100 ft-lbs (Tighten fully at ride height)Tighten initially, then final torque with the vehicle's weight on the suspension (at ride height) to prevent bushing preload damage.
Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut 50 - 85 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns with a castellation on the nut. Do not back off.
Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut 80 - 100 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns with a castellation on the nut. Do not back off.
Tie Rod End Nut 35 - 55 ft-lbsTighten to the spec, then continue tightening only until the cotter pin hole aligns. Do not back off.
Tie Rod End Jam Nut (Sleeve) 50 - 55 ft-lbsAfter setting toe adjustment.
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 15 - 20 ft-lbsTypically a smaller nut on the stem.
Shock Absorber Lower Mount 50 - 65 ft-lbsBolt connecting to the lower control arm
Wheel Lug Nuts 100 ft-lbs(Always check your wheel type, e.g., steel vs. aluminum, and stud size.)



My compiled info from youtube videos, forum searches
 Front End Rebuild
• Upper(50 ft lbs)/Lower ball joints(90 ftlbs)
1a. With control arms removed, clean, prime, paint(blue)
• Control arm cross shaft end nuts 100 ft lbs 1 ⅝” (should be able to move the cross shaft by hand with some effort) 2 HOLES SHOULD BE FACING FRAME
DO NOT MESS UP OUTSIDE CASING FOR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS.
• Inner/Outer tie rod ends 41 ft lbs
• Tie Rod Adjusting sleeves ?
• Idler arm to frame 25 ft lbs
• u bolts 85 ft lbs 
• shock to frame 140 ft lbs
• Polyurethane control arm bushings (cross-shaft nut 115 ft lbs)
• Pitman Arm 1 5/16”  to gear box 186 ft/lbs, gear box to link 41 ft lbs

[87ChevyR10]

Rich, i cant even lie. its a lot of $%^& im tryna cover and not mess up. im praying all my parts are right, i triple checked before ordering. researched all i can. worrying any and everything that could happen. just kinda schitz'ng a little bit. I always have come here, this is the only place I really known.

Im gon hop back on the videos, im at pitman-idler arm install portion, followed by the steering gear. Praying I don't have any cracks at the frame where the gear mounts. Sheesh.... I'm excited though. I'm gonna shed some tears. Especially with the new rims and tires/stance

[87ChevyR10]

Can't lie, i learned a sway bar was also called a center link looking at the 80s books. my dumb dumb moment. im looking at the diagram scratching my head like, huh? thats a sway bar?

[JohnnyPopper]

Front Sway bars were optional I believe.

Take LOTS of pics, Before, during. They will save your bacon...and some 

[87ChevyR10]

Front Sway bars were optional I believe.

Take LOTS of pics, Before, during. They will save your bacon...and some 

Man, look... you aint kidding bout that. I'm finna strip everything with help. lay it out, figure whats finna get dawn scrubbed, degreased and spray painted. Bolts in bags WITH the pieces they go to. I'm honestly kinda giddy at opening up everything for the 1st time. heck, seeing it all for the 1st time. Seeing my baby for the 1st time. If anybody in the world understands what a square means to their owner, its yall. My wife just looks at me crazy tryna explain what all we bout to do.

[87ChevyR10]

Front Sway bars were optional I believe.

Take LOTS of pics, Before, during. They will save your bacon...and some 

Yeah, i went through ALL my pics, and i realized I can see MOST of what I'm about to get into, but i was PRETTY sure i didnt have a front either. And I don't. But I will now.

Also, i meant to pass on some incredible news. It's really a blessing. The guy who helped me get into stock car racing, taught me everything I know, offered to help. He knows me well, my wife is gonna get to  meet him, has heard alot about him around our race car time together. Alot of other life stories will be told but man, I got to talk to him tonight and he's gonna help me get it all together.

My dad turned wrenches for 40 years. Didn't help me a lick on my race cars. But buddy not only helped me get my race car together, he taught me bout motors and tons of other stuff, how to race honestly. Well, he offered to help get it together. And to say the least, there's race related stuff I'd ask my dad he had no clue and i didnt know jack %$t, but id ask him and it'd be like, "Oh, man thats no big deal." So, a lot is off my plate in terms of i can focus more on the time spent with people I haven't seen in a long time.

Not to mention the wife is 5 mos pregnant so keeping her happy is going to be key for me to have a peaceful and happy trip to GA.

I do plan to update here as much as possible on the fly. I'll likely shoot here in the unworldly event my guy don't know something. But I also want to tie yall into that part of my world a bit closer cause I'ma be getting a lot of footage. If the wife is there, bet your $ she's gon be getting some footage!

[bd]

Can't lie, i learned a sway bar was also called a center link looking at the 80s books. my dumb dumb moment. im looking at the diagram scratching my head like, huh? thats a sway bar?

This is not true.  The "Center Link" (variably known as an Intermediate Rod and Relay Rod) is the steering rod that links the left and right Tie Rod Ends and Steering Knuckle Arms together on a vehicle with a worm and sector type Steering Gearbox.  A "Drag Link" (used predominantly on solid front axle vehicles; 4WD) connects the steering gear Pitman Arm either to one of the Steering Knuckles (generally the driver's side) or to the Center Link/Intermediate Rod/Relay Rod.  Unfortunately, the nomenclature has been interchangeably abused to such an extent over the years that it can be difficult to decipher exactly what is being said w/o an accompanying labeled diagram.  But then, far too often, diagrams mislabel components making matters worse.  So, don't get too caught up in the nomenclature.  Rather, study the various diagrams and videos to understand how various components fit together and what they do.  The terminology will come to you as you gain experience. 

Sounds like you will enjoy some welcomed help from your friend.

Some of our members may have correctly labeled diagrams that will make things clearer if they wish to post them; maybe even correct what I just posted   

[87ChevyR10]

I went back and looked after I posted that, and looked at the diagrams and realized they were indeed different.

I certainly am gonna need the help, lol.

Eh, he'll certainly point out where I'm messing up. I told him, you aint gotta turn a wrench, just point and make sure 2 things. I don't drop the truck on me and i don't blow myself up, to which I told him, you put in more fuel cells in race cars than I will in 2 lifetimes. So, help me not mess that one up, I NEED THAT to work