Author Topic: best replacement for a crease in the door (Read 8396 times)

mikeith · « **on:** August 06, 2007, 03:18:01 pm »

notice the small crease at the bottom of the door.... i am looking for a good way to fix it. both competitor and classicparts.com offer a lower door skin that would have to be welded on but its only $23 if you get it through classicparts.... or would one of the aftermarket doorshells that are $165 be a better fit/way to go. a bodyshop quoted me 125 to install/weld the lower door skin, and 100 to install and align a new door?

which way should i go?

Blazin · « **Reply #1 on:** August 06, 2007, 06:26:29 pm »

Why are you replacing metal for a dent? The only time you should cut out and weld in new is if its rusty. That dent looks like it might take 2 or 3 hours to get into finish primer. Very easy fix.

red4wd · « **Reply #2 on:** August 06, 2007, 07:26:41 pm »

I'm with blazin I wouldn't cut on that door...just pull it and work it

Captkaos · « **Reply #3 on:** August 06, 2007, 07:47:54 pm »

I agree, with the above, I would get them to fix the crease.

BTW, you must really like /classic parts better than us because we have lower door skin patches for $12.50.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=0850-171-172&Category_Code=7T

80stepsideguy · « **Reply #4 on:** August 07, 2007, 03:19:30 am »

Take the door panel off hammer and dolly that dent out and do some filler work.SInce your truck is flat black you can reshoot the door w/o a problem.That door looks solid, i wouldnt do any chopping or replacing.

thanks
pat

Blazin · « **Reply #5 on:** August 07, 2007, 06:43:20 am »

I wouldn't take it off. No need, plus the door stays put better when its bolted to a truck than laying on a stand. On the truck you don't have to flip it over to work both sides. Oh yeah if the shop you took it to wants to cut the bottom out and weld in new material, I would take it to another shop because that one doesn't know jack!

mikeith · « **Reply #6 on:** August 08, 2007, 08:29:33 am »

Quote from: Captkaos on August 06, 2007, 07:47:54 pm

I agree, with the above, I would get them to fix the crease.

BTW, you must really like /classic parts better than us because we have lower door skin patches for $12.50.
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=0850-171-172&Category_Code=7T

how dare you say that

i was talkin about the one that goes all the way up to the body line... its 24" tall... i looked here and couldn't find it. you know i ALWAYS check this site first!

mikeith · « **Reply #7 on:** August 08, 2007, 08:38:08 am »

Quote from: Blazin on August 07, 2007, 06:43:20 am

I wouldn't take it off. No need, plus the door stays put better when its bolted to a truck than laying on a stand. On the truck you don't have to flip it over to work both sides. Oh yeah if the shop you took it to wants to cut the bottom out and weld in new material, I would take it to another shop because that one doesn't know jack!

i would rather it not have it cut either but it is a pretty bad crease... the picture really doesn't do it justice,and it causes it to kinds fold outward at the bottom.... its also a pretty wavy door. should i just have em pull it all strait as possible or get a new door. i really dont want alot of bondo goin on this truck, oh and the doors gotta come off anyway for new pins and bushings so that'll be fun $:-\$

Captkaos · « **Reply #8 on:** August 08, 2007, 11:35:50 am »

Quote from: mikeith on August 08, 2007, 08:29:33 am

how dare you say that i was talkin about the one that goes all the way up to the body line... its 24" tall... i looked here and couldn't find it. you know i ALWAYS check this site first!

hmmm, I guess I removed it because it was out of stock and didn't put it back in. It was $21.55. I will put it back in.

If you don't see it, email me, it might not have been added yet, or out of stock temporarily.

mikeith · « **Reply #9 on:** August 08, 2007, 12:33:10 pm »

Quote from: Captkaos on August 08, 2007, 11:35:50 am

Quote from: mikeith on August 08, 2007, 08:29:33 am
how dare you say that i was talkin about the one that goes all the way up to the body line... its 24" tall... i looked here and couldn't find it. you know i ALWAYS check this site first!

hmmm, I guess I removed it because it was out of stock and didn't put it back in. It was $21.55. I will put it back in.

If you don't see it, email me, it might not have been added yet, or out of stock temporarily.

ok cool.... what do you think though chris.... chop and weld or just have them repair the one thats on it?

Captkaos · « **Reply #10 on:** August 08, 2007, 12:44:45 pm »

If the picture really isn't showing how bad it is, I don't know. What is the cost to fix what is there?
Blazin has better experience/advice than I do. I would think they could fix it. What does it look like looking down the crease?

mikeith · « **Reply #11 on:** August 08, 2007, 04:13:05 pm »

ill take some closer pictures after work and try to get em posted! 200 cut welded and primed... not sure how much just to work out the dent though we didn't talk about that

VileZambonie · « **Reply #12 on:** August 08, 2007, 09:07:41 pm »

Just pop a new door on. It's cheap and easy (sounds like my ex)

Blazin · « **Reply #13 on:** August 08, 2007, 11:33:02 pm »

The door on this Western Star was creased so bad it actually had a hole torn in it. I looked from Florida to Canada to California, no used doors. A new one for just the shell was around $2,500. I pulled it, welded the tear up, pulled it some more, did allot of hammer and dolly work. Did use some filler, but I got it strait with only two coats of filler. After it was blocked out the thickest spot was about an 1/8". Did this one about a year ago and it still looks fine. It gets is fair share of vibration as its a concrete form truck and does allot of off road / job site time. It was a rack of forms that tipped over off the other form truck that did the damage. The white crap all over the door used to be the logo before I erased it with a vinyl eraser.

Pull pins welded on.

Filler applied.