Parking Brake Cable Disconnect At Cab

[ccz145a]

Ok, I am almost ready to swap my old rusty cab for a an un-molested solid one. I am stuck on how to disconnect the cable at the foot peddle. I removed the wire keeper that I thought was holding it, but don't see the secret. Should I loosen the cable a little form underneath?

Thanks.

[Captkaos]

I didn't disconnect mine, I just removed the compression clip from the floor and removed the cable with it...

[ccz145a]

So you removed the whole assembly inside the cab including the cable to the equalizer bracket?

[Captkaos]

yeah, I unbolted it from the cab and removed the locking clip from the floorboard and pulled the cable with it.

[ccz145a]

I could reuse this pedal assembly. It still works well. But there is a lot, a lot, I mean a lot of surface rust on every single piece of it, so I was  planning on using the doner part and I am pretty sure the '84 front cable is longer than the '75 cable. Any ideas? I'd really like to use the doner pedal with the orig. cable.

[Captkaos]

The 84 version of the cable won't work with the rest of the 75 components, they were routed down one side of the frame where the 75 version split to each side.  You can coat it with POR15 and it would be fine if it isn't flaky rust

[ccz145a]

Yep, the routing is different. So I can POR something with moving parts? I thought it would gum up the mechanism... I guess I could POR it and then mount it and then work it periodically until it cures. Got nothing to lose but a rusty old brake pedal, right?

[Captkaos]

I wouldn't put alot of paint down in the hinge area, but you can put it on there....

[Blazin]

I agree, if you gob the POR into the hinge area, you might as well weld it together. Make sure you clean the lid and the top of the can very well. Plus put some plastic over the can before you put the lid back on too.